By Brett on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 01:59 am: Edit

My tachometer was working fine yesterday when I went to lunch. When I got in the Disco to drive home, the tach does not work. I smacked the dash a few times (always my first starting point), and nothing happened. I do not have a tech manual, so I am lost. Can someone help me, or tell me what to check? It is a 95 with 88,000 miles. I drove it to work this morning and it is still not functioning. Everything else on the car seems to be functioning properly. All other guages and lights appear to be working.

By gp (Garrett) on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 03:05 am: Edit

usually it is a sign that your alt. is going or gone. that or your serp belt is loose or not on correctly. there is also a small white wire that runs from the back of your alt to your tach. this could be loose, broken or some how become diconnected. check this first. your tach runs off the alt. but since you are not getting any battery light indicators or dimming of the lights your alt seems to be fine. but to make sure check your amp output. also while you are in there make sure all your connections (grounds and pos. terminals) to the battery from the alt are nice and snug and with no corrosion. after all this post again if it is still dead.

i think i covered the basics......anyone else.

By Larry Harrell (Harrellee) on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 03:09 am: Edit

Yep Garrett is excatly right. I have a 95 Disco and at 80K the Alt went out. So more than likely it is your altenator. Have it checked!!

Larry
95 Disco
www.roverclubhouse.com

By Brett on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 03:13 am: Edit

Thanks guys! I will check that stuff at lunch. If it is indeed the alternator, which one would you replace it with? Now that you say it, my dash lights seemed dim this morning, but I thought that it was in my head. How difficult is the alternator to change? Thanks for your help.

By Dan OBrien on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 03:24 am: Edit

My alternator went out on my 95 Disco too. First tried a $300 remanufactured non-LR alternator. Lasted 6 months and died. Got money back and bought a LR one from Atlantic British and no problems since (about 8 months). Install is straightforward and about a 30 minute job the first time. Remove Serpentine belt (draw a picture if you don't have a manual of where the belt goes, amazing how soon you forget when you go to put it back on). Get the belt tension release tool for this or put a pipe over a wrench. Remove alternator (a couple wires and three mounting bolts). Replace with new.

By gp (Garrett) on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 03:33 am: Edit

correct a mundo. the rebuilts around here are the MM cores with Bosch guts. i paid just under $250 for mine. like dan said, make sure you know EXACTLY how the belt goes back on. it can fit more than one way and if put on incorrectly you will have the same issues. if you think in the future you will be adding a winch and lights you may want to consider getting an alt with more juice.

By Brett on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 03:39 am: Edit

Garrett, Dan, Larry-- I called the dealer, they want $590 for an alternator. I see that Altantic British has one for $400 or so. I called my local auto parts store, they can get one for me by noon that is $200. It is new, manufactured by WorldWide, under the AC/Delco name and has a lifetime warranty. What do you guys think? Also, I guess this would be a good time to change my serpentine belt. Which way should I go? In addition, shouldn't my battery light be on if my alternator is going out?

By gp (Garrett) on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 03:57 am: Edit

before you go slapping on a new alt or anthing, check the output of the alt and the other things i mentioned. and yes.....a new belt is always a good thing to do. i would really make sure to do with genuine LR on this one. and as for the new alt.....AC/Delco sounds good to me. and a lifetime warranty.....even better. $600 for an alt......i know that is what they sell for, but that is a hose job for sure. but yes typically the battery light would come on, as well as, a slew of other lights and or diming headlights and the sort. but check and re-check those items listed earlier, THEN start replacing parts.

By Brett on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 04:26 am: Edit

Connections are clean. No loose wires. Belt is on correctly. I do see some white grease on the fins of the alternator. I do not have a voltage meter since I am at the office. How long will the truck run if the alternator is shot? I have a 20 minute drive home.

By gp (Garrett) on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 05:47 am: Edit

you should be fine for the ride home if it is your alt that is shot. especially if it is still light out and you don't have your lights on. and none of your indicator lights have come on yet. but do check your voltage on the way home or once you get there.

By Newish D2 owner on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 06:25 am: Edit

I wish mine stopped working - assuming its connected to the mileometer. It could take me YEARS to fix it!

By Brett on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 06:33 am: Edit

I am going to the auto parts store now. They can test the alternator for me. I will post again after the test. Thanks to everyone for their input thus far.

By Brett on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 08:17 am: Edit

Got to the auto parts store. On the way, my turn signals were getting dimmer as time went on. They checked and the alternator is shot. I have one on order and it should be at the store in about 2 hours. I also got a new Gates serpentine belt. Obviously I have not changed this before. Are there any tricks that you guys know of that will help me? Thanks!

By gp (Garrett) on Friday, September 07, 2001 - 02:14 am: Edit

just make sure you draw a little diagram on how the belt is routed. you may think there is only one way, but believe me it can fit on there more than one way. and the belt tension of course is very important. i don't know the specfic tension requirements off hand. too loose or too tight will not give you the proper voltage.

that is all i know.

good luck.

By Norm Orschnorschki (Norm) on Friday, September 07, 2001 - 07:08 am: Edit

When the alternator on my '95 Disc. went out, it was the voltage regulator. However, I could not find anyone with the parts to rebuild it, so I bought a new one from Atlantic British. For some reason, parts for Magneti Marelli are almost impossible to find.

Later, someone on this board turned me on to Ram Electric (www.ramelectric.com), who had the part. Now I'm having it put on my old alt. to keep in reserve. (Of course, if you talk to the dealer, they'll tell you that the alternator is a non-repairable part --- bullshit!!!)

---Norm

By Brett on Friday, September 07, 2001 - 09:35 am: Edit

I replaced my alternator last night. It took about 45 minutes, but that included getting all of the tools out and cleaning everything up. I put on an AC Delco alternator that is new, not a rebuilt. My cost was $249 after tax with a new alternator and a new serpentine belt. Thank you to everyone for your help.

By Ron on Friday, September 07, 2001 - 09:37 am: Edit

Where did you get it?

Part number?

Thanks and glad it worked out.

Ron

By Brett on Friday, September 07, 2001 - 11:14 am: Edit

Ron--

I bought it at my local auto parts store. I am in the office. Let me post this weekend, when I can get home and get the number for you.

By Ron on Friday, September 07, 2001 - 11:15 am: Edit

Thanks,

This is the kind of info I like to keep filed away as stuff like this always comes up. Name of chain and PN would be the best!

Cheers
Ron

By Howard Parker on Wednesday, September 12, 2001 - 05:56 am: Edit

My alternator went last week at 84k ('94 300TDi) - beware - there are recons and recons.
Cheapies only replace the blown part, which still leaves you with a potentially weak alternator. I forked out £231 inc fitting (time too valuable to do myself) but the alt. is a full recon with all new bits and a worthwhile guarantee. Peace of mind for winter!

Howard

By Scott Bowden on Thursday, September 13, 2001 - 02:38 am: Edit

My tachometer/alternator just went out. I went with the 160 amp model from www.premierpowerwelder.com. It was $400 for the unit, $30 for saddle mount to fit factory bracket, and $20 for the other bracket (which I made one for myself). You have to change/add/splice some wiring but good directions and/or tech line. The pulley is a different size so tach reads high. I have not adjusted the screw on the back of the tach yet. When I am ready I will be able to put the underhood welderbox in. I figured it was a no brainer because of the reported problems with the rebuilds and option of the welder.

By Scott Bowden on Thursday, September 13, 2001 - 02:41 am: Edit

One other thing. I took my old serpentine belt to the parts store and they converted the numbers. The new belt cost about $27.

By Chris Browne on Thursday, September 13, 2001 - 03:34 am: Edit

Scott: Can you swap the two pulley's over?

By Scott Bowden on Thursday, September 13, 2001 - 03:49 am: Edit

I did not try. I believe the smaller pulley allows the alternator to spin faster thus more charging at a lower rpm. My estimate is about 50% higher than normal, ie. 3000 rpm verses 2000 rpm for stock. If I have more time before SOLAROS, Southern Appalachian Expedition this weekend I will try to adjust tach. If anyone wants to see it at the event, I have a red '94 with www.prescottbowden.com on the rocksliders, just ask me.