By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Tuesday, September 11, 2001 - 06:53 am: Edit

How do you physically remove the rear driveshaft? I have removed the four nuts from the studs on the transfer box side, and I have removed the six nuts on the rear diff side. A total of six bolts pass through the rotoflex coupling; I have been able to withdraw only three of these six bolts. The remaining three need to be backed out towards the rear diff, but the diff body is in the way. The entire rear drive shaft is loose, but not loose enough to actually physically remove it from the truck. I have lifted the rear axle, and I have lifted the frame in an effort to lengthen the direct line length between transfer box and rear diff, but it hasn't worked.

Please help - I need to get my beast running so I can go pick up my daughter at daycare and get her behind my closed doors under my watchful eye in these unfortunate times... God damn terrorists...

Thanks,
Bill
phone today: 480-429-5961
email today: wgill3@aol.com

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Tuesday, September 11, 2001 - 09:25 am: Edit

Driveshaft is now removed. Thanks to Chris Condon, Al Hang, and Joshua Weinstein for calling. Shaft compressed another half inch when I used a screwdriver for leverage against the rotoflex. Those three bolts are still not able to back out towards the diff side. I'll have to secure them so they don't rattle around when rear axle is spinning while front axle is driving truck. The bushing on the "pinion flange centralizing peg" is roughed up pretty good as well, but is still functional.

Tomorrow I'll send Ho pics of my pieces parts so you all know what I was talking about - digi cam download cable is at the office, along with my jack stands. Mayor has asked everyone to stay home today to load their H&Ks for the upcoming offensive (this is AZ, afterall).

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Wednesday, September 12, 2001 - 04:00 pm: Edit

Josh, here's those pics...

3rd member with three bolts that can't pull out:


close up of bolts not clearing housing:


centralizing peg with worn bushing:


inside the diff-end of the shaft (centralizing peg with bushing fits snugly in here, but the interior rubber bushing in the shaft is worn away):

By Discosaurus (Discosaurus) on Thursday, September 13, 2001 - 06:11 am: Edit

...you're lucky !

That DS centering thing can be a rat bastard to get out of the flange attached to the pinion.

I had to cut mine off the last time I needed a new pinion seal.

keith
discosaurus

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, September 13, 2001 - 09:01 am: Edit

Hmmmm...don't know if lucky is the right word, since the centralizing peg vibrated right out of there along with all the bushings! Now I'm trying to figure out how to renew the centralizing peg's bushing and the bushing within the metal collar in the DS's diff end. I have not heard of a way to successfully remove the metal collar from the DS end, at least without destroying the metal collar. Or should I just beat the metal collar out and "slip" in a new one (yeah, I'm sure it will slip right in....)? Anyone know where I can get a new bushing for the centralizing peg? Any suggestions?

By Kristian on Thursday, September 13, 2001 - 09:39 am: Edit

I wish I could say, "better you than me," but I was in the same situation about a month ago. I used up several sawzall blades and lost some finger skin getting that bushing out. Took me all day. Have fun. hehe

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Saturday, September 15, 2001 - 06:07 am: Edit

Any updates? Hope you've got a handle on this by now.

Jeff

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Monday, September 17, 2001 - 06:02 am: Edit

I rec'd two rotoflex donuts (one new, one used) from Josh Weinstein in the mail Saturday (thanks again). I still have the problem of the centralizing peg bushing, though. The damn dealer won't sell me the metal collar/bushing combo that fits into the end of the driveshaft (and the centralizing peg slips into this bushing, thereby keeping the donut-clad driveshaft centered). They'll only sell me the full rotoflex kit for $116. Screw em!

Looking for suggestions, here...where can I get the cheapest FULL rotoflex kit (complete with metal collar/bushing)? Then I'll have THREE rotoflex donuts! I'll bet these things would fly pretty far when launched from a skeet shooter.....PULL!

I'm also investigating that tip for Atl Brit's conversion kit, and I'll pester Aaron Auto for an old RR shaft...

To add to the fun, my rear windows are PMSing now. And we took my wife's Infiniti up north for the weekend (cause the Rover is FWD only), and her AC died on the way back, just as we were coming down in elevation and it started getting hot. I know, I know, I shouldn't be bitching with all that is going on in this world...

By Chris Condon on Monday, September 17, 2001 - 08:26 am: Edit

Bill,

I'm not really sure if I'm thinking of the right thing, but if this "centralizing peg" is the extra bushing thing that comes with the rotoflex from LR, I have a new one. When I changed my rotoflex I didn't bother changing that bushing as the dealership told me that it wasn't essential. So, if you would like it I would be more than happy to send it to you. Let me know off the board, and we can double check to make sure it is the correct part.

Chris
chris.condon@radioshack.com

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Monday, September 17, 2001 - 08:59 am: Edit

you've got mail

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Tuesday, September 25, 2001 - 12:31 pm: Edit

Thanks Chris & Josh for the bushing & rotoflex. I took care of it Saturday night, and now my shit rides like a Pontiac

here's the old metal collar/bushing piece compared to the new one from Chris (had to cut the damn thing out):


here's the new roto installed & a good side view of the shaft & diff (I installed HD OME 762s Saturday night, too):

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Tuesday, September 25, 2001 - 12:36 pm: Edit

One more question - does anybody know if are you supposed to lube that rubber bushing that the centralizing peg fits into? The whole thing rotates as a unit, so there isn't any rotation of peg w/in bushing, but there is movement as axle lifts & drops. I put a very light film of teflon grease on it, but I'll disassemble & liberally lube if necessary...

Thanks again.