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In doing a post off-road inspection and cleaning, I noticed that my rotoflex is starting to develop some small cracks. Are some cracks normal, or is it time to change out when any cracks appear?
It looks like the previous owner had replaced the coupling about 25K miles ago - is that a normal lifespan?
I also have some mild vibrations when coasting down from speed, could this be contributing?
Thanks for helping out a newbie (but I'm learing quick!)
-Scott
'96 SD
52K Miles
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yeah those things supposidly have a habit of cracking within 30k from what i have heard here and the dealer. mine from what i can tell from my records is original at 63k and looking good. if the rotoflex is torn it certainly can cause a driveline vibration.
if you think you would like to upgrade there are some folks here that have replaced the rotoflex with a much stronger U joint.
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""It looks like the previous owner had replaced the coupling about 25K miles ago - is that a normal lifespan?""
No - not in my opinion and experience.
I replaced my original RotoFlex at ~50K miles and still carry it as a spare. It shows no sign of damage.
I run a 3" lift, $G HD trailing arms (which correct the pinion angle to some degree) and engage in off road activity that would probably be considered much more severe then "average". Oh, I also run a manual gearbox which places a lot more stress on that flex coupler then a slushbox.
keith
discosaurus
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the rotoflex has three arc slots, and it can be installed in two ways - such as the slotted portions are compressed under torque (while going forward), or extended. They should not be compressed under torque, and my dealer doesn't know that or pretends that it doesn't matter. They replaced the roto, and it failed miserably 23k later. The original joint lasted for 66kmi.
You're looking into spending about $100 on the rotoflex and bolts, and do it yourself and do it right.
peter
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Peter
I've been doing some research on replacing the rotoflex, but this is the first time I've seen reference to the arc slots - thanks for the tip! No mention of this in the WS manual either.
I assume that the orientation will be obvious when I get around to replacing it.
Scott
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Am I missing something? Why doesn't he replace it w/ a u-joint? Aren't u-joints preferred over the rotoflex? Maybe I don't have things straight though???
Lynden
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ujoint = money
replace roto = less money
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Good point!!!
Lynden
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Lynden,
the rotoflex is not that bad of a design, it does eat up a lot of vibration and torsional shock loads. From the sheer strength point, a common U-jointed shaft would be better, but you'd be transferring the same load onto the diff and transfer case. The roto is actually a true CV joint, unlike the U-joint; if you're unlucky, with 3" of lift you may need a U-joint/CV joint'ed rear driveshaft to avoid bad vibrations (mucho dinero).
Scott - when you get to replace the roto, the beat-up joint will clearly show you where and how the load is applied.
peter
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my rotoflex is at 85K miles...
last 5K w/lift...
When I first started inspecting the thing, I took it off and got rid of all the undercoating overspray (I think that's what it was)...which can make it appear cracked and deteriorated.
I'm waiting with a "U" replacement driveshaft from a RR but that stupid rotoflex still shows no wear...
I don't get it??
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237K, still on original Rotoflex.......and yes, it does go off-road
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WHat the hell is ROTO FLEX
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Phillip,
The rotoflex is the rubber donut that is used in place of the rear universal joint on your rear driveshaft. It is supposed to take some shock out of the system.
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