By Javier Velador (Jvelador) on Friday, October 19, 2001 - 05:52 pm: Edit

Fuel filter replacement is covered in detail in the Technical Discussion Archive.

I just replaced mine after about 50K and what a difference!

This is the 2nd fuel filter I've installed on it. The first one caused the pump to fail. That was at 75K miles

Heed my warning and your fuel pump will last longer.

BTW, it is attached to the frame just inside the right rear wheel fender. The part costs just over $40.

Cheers!

Javier

By Jim on Friday, October 19, 2001 - 05:56 pm: Edit

where is the best place to get a fuel filter?

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Friday, October 19, 2001 - 06:54 pm: Edit

$9 at Wal-Mart....


-L

By Robert Mann (Oldscout) on Friday, October 19, 2001 - 10:40 pm: Edit

6.75 at my Car Quest, Were the hell did you pay 40!!!

By Javier Velador (Jvelador) on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 12:12 am: Edit

Land Rover Encino was the place I bought my Disco's fuel filter. I dunno, wanted OEM equipment. I don't like to skimp on some things, I guess ;)

Walmart selling LR parts now, for cheap? Damn, feel like I've been under a rock.

What vehicle did you say it was for at Walmart/CarQuest?

Javier

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 12:18 am: Edit

Pulled out the filter book and looked it up....


-L

By Javier Velador (Jvelador) on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 12:22 am: Edit

Great, thanks for the info!

By Jon Williams (Jonw) on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 11:09 am: Edit

Deutsch filter FF504. $4.99. Better than Fram (and most anything else, IMHO)

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 11:19 am: Edit

Hey! That's even better than what I had found!

I'm takin' notes!


-L

By Kingfish (Kingfish) on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 11:21 am: Edit

The LR filter I have (and is getting ready to go on this weekend) actally says GM on it. Imagine that, a LR box and a GM filter. A $25 GM filter. One thing to note is that if you use a LR filter, make sure you put some type of anti seize lube on the threads because they rust together and make for a bad day.

By Jon Williams (Jonw) on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 11:30 am: Edit

Yeah, the filter I pulled off my truck was an AC filter (AC Delco). You'll find that the aftermarket filters you get for your Rover are are the same used on many GM vehicles with V8s.

By tenacstud on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 12:59 pm: Edit

I have looked all over for directions on replacing the fuel filter. Could somebody please give me a little direction?

Thanks
tenacstud

By PerroneFord on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 04:08 pm: Edit

http://www.spanishtrailrovers.com/Technical_Section/Replacing_the_Fuel_Filter/replacing_the_fuel_filter.html

By Daniel on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 11:00 am: Edit

Easy stuff Tenecastud.
The Spanish trail site talks about depresurizing (spell check) the system, but I was told that that is not necessary for the Disco. I did nothing special, just cut the engine off, remove the old filter, clean up large amount of spilled fuel, replace with new filter. CHECK FOR LEAKS.
Again, you'll spill enough fuel to start a nice fire, so bring lots of towels and no somking within 50 feet.
It's much easier to get to the filter if you take tire off.

By Axel Haakonsen (Axel) on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 11:09 am: Edit

I think the depressurising is a liability thing, just like the manual also requires you to disconnect the battery to change your windshield wipers, just in case.......

By PerroneFord on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 11:19 am: Edit

I think the depressurizing IS unnecessary, but due liability (and just general safety) I wanted to just present it as the manual did.

Is the fuel venting system different on the Disco? I too heard that depressurizing was not necessary on the Disco, but no explanation as to why.

Thanks,

By Jorge P. Gutierrez, Jr. (Jpg2esq) on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 12:49 pm: Edit

Thanks for the info Perrone. Will get around to it this weekend. I was going to skip the depressure segment as well.

By Discosaurus (Discosaurus) on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 01:10 pm: Edit

...just hold a towel over the valve on the fuel rail, push it in, and bingo - fuel system depressurized. Might take a whole 10 seconds and might keep you from getting a face full of fuel when you back off the fitting on the filter. Depends on how long it's been since you ran the truck...

...modern fuel injection systems run at pretty high fuel pressures.

keith
discosaurus

By Trevor Hennessey (Trevorh) on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 01:13 pm: Edit

Have been following this thread and am going to do this this weekend without depressurizing the system. My only question is do you still need to remove the fuel relay?

Thanks

By gp (Garrett) on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 01:15 pm: Edit

someone had posted to run the truck, pull the fuse for the fuel pump til the truck dies and then do your work. put the fuse back in and you are done. i did this......seemed to work ok. keith's was works even easier.

By Moe on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 02:21 pm: Edit

Just change the filter and put a new one in. A little fuel will come out but it is no big deal. I have never depressurized the system nor removed any relays, of course removing the rear wheel gives you a little more room to work with.

By Stephen on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 03:05 pm: Edit

And keep in mind you don't want to run the engine dry as it is not good for the cat converter.

By Robert Mann (Oldscout) on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 03:28 pm: Edit

Ok Stephen I'll bite. WHY?

By Stephen on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 03:42 pm: Edit

I'm just regurgitating the owner's manual that says you should avoid running the engine dry as it can quickly cause cat damage.

By Tom P. on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 03:44 pm: Edit

Just do what Keith (discosaurus) suggested - depressurize at the fuel rail schraeder valve. If you let the vehicle sit overnight and change the filter the next morning you will have very little fuel pressure. The only fuel you wil spill is what is contained in the filter (unavoidable).

Tom Proctor
96 Disco

By Discosaurus (Discosaurus) on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 03:59 pm: Edit

""And keep in mind you don't want to run the engine dry as it is not good for the cat converter.""

I think the worry is that the extreme lean condition produced by fuel starvation will trash the cats. Most modern cars strongly caution against running out of fuel.

I always thought over rich was worse for cat's then being too lean...

By Robert Mann (Oldscout) on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 04:15 pm: Edit

The problems with running dry I have always grasped are,
Fuel pump is a rotary vane style pump and the fuel is used to lube the vanes. Air pockets will form in the lines,pressure regulator, filter, injectors and may cause stumbling for 50/100 miles after fill up.

By Tate Crumbley (Tate) on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 04:21 pm: Edit

I'd agree that it's bad to run out of fuel, but it it's so horrible to run the engine "dry" by disabling the fuel pump (via removal of pump fuse or relay) why would the factory service manual and the Haynes manual state this to be the procedure?

I do like Keith's method, too. Might use that next time...

By Mike Beiergrohslein (400mcs) on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 07:06 pm: Edit

WHERE IS THE "valve on the fuel rail"??
THANKS

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 07:37 pm: Edit

Engine bay, passenger side, on top, looks like a bicycle air valve...


-L