By DiscoReggie on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 10:10 am: Edit

I sent my wife to the LR Dealer to get an oil filter. She came home with a filter and a ring. What is the ring for?

I read the archives regarding to fill a filter or to not fill a filter, to drain first or after.

Bottom line is....Can i take my truck to PEP Boys or any oil change shop, and get an oil change if I give them the filter and ring? Or do I have to go to a LR specialist because there is a different method of changing oil on Rovers than on regular vehicles.

I havent had problems with my truck, and I dont want oil dripping all over the place or ruin my engine because I'm being cheap

This may sound stupid but i'm trying to save a trip and a buck from going to LR Dealer for service.

By dburress on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 10:20 am: Edit

Small copper ring? It's for the oil drain plug. Should replace the ring with each oil change. Some people do....some don't.

By jmon on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 12:39 pm: Edit

changing oil on a disco is pretty standard..copper ring is for the drain plug...pep boys can do it...you can do it too....

By Wes Legaspi (Wes) on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 01:26 pm: Edit

I wouldn't say changing oil in a disco is standard. Instead of draining oil, removing filter, replacing filter and pouring new oil in, the way to do it in a disco is this way...

1. drain oil
2. pour new oil in
3. remove old filter
4. put new filter in

This is so you don't lose prime in the oil pump. As far as the copper ring goes, some people change it every oil change, some change it every other.

By jmon on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 02:18 pm: Edit

i have always done it the standard way ..which also includes filling the oil filter with oil before application. I have never had any problems with the oil pump. I have read though that it does happen ..

By Redsrover (Redsrover) on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 08:12 pm: Edit

Just did the oil change on Saturday. Pull dip-stick out, place bucket under truck (positioned to catch the oil)and remove the drain plug. Let drain. Replace copper ring on drain plug and refit. Pour in about 5 quarts of oil. Reposition bucket under filter and remove it. Put new oil in new filter and run some fresh oil around the rubber seal on the new filter and refit. Get the new filter hand tight, no more. Check oil level and top up. Lastly, clean up the oil spilled all over the place because the bucket wasn't positioned correctly.

Red

By jmon on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 11:26 pm: Edit

it sounds like by shear luck i have not had the misfortune of a non primed oil pump doing my changes..i will do it this way from now on....

By Frode H�bertz Haaland (Discofrode) on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 09:35 pm: Edit

Copper ring must be renewed when the drain plug has been removed - or you will have to tighten it with a bit extra torque than last time. The structure of the copper gives away, and loses its inherent elasticity when it is used.
frode
home.halden.net/discovery

By Bill Bettridge (Billb) on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 08:02 am: Edit

Sorry Frode - but I seriously question the need to change the copper gasket everytime - I'm still using the same one that came with the truck after 60,000 miles with changes every 3k


Seriously though - I probably should change it every once-in-a-while, but every oil change seems kinda silly.

Actually, the drain plug is one of the few places that DOESN'T leak!

By gp (Garrett) on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 08:21 am: Edit

my truck with 62K on the clock does not leak a drop since i have owned it and i have never replaced the copper ring. i will replace that copper ring when it starts to.
just wait.....i will get up tomorrow morning and i will have a stain in the driveway.

By Kingfish (Kingfish) on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 11:34 am: Edit

Bill and GP, just to let you know I always change the copper washer. Wanna know why? When I had my '90 Integra, I never changed the washer. At about 70k - 90k (I forgot exactly) the femal threads on the oil sump gave way! I had to find a drain plug that was slightly bigger and re-thread it. Luckily, pep-boys had just that type of plug for morons like myself. The reason you change the washer is because it has an elasticity which presses against the drain plug, so it wont shake loose. It also takes tension away from the threads. When you use the same washer over and over, it eventually becomes a hardened ring with no elasticity. So when you tighten down on the bolt, you really put a lot of tension on the threads.

Hey, washers are overpriced for what they are, but they wont break you.

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 11:39 am: Edit

Yeah, but I can't find 'em local.... and it sucks to pay more for shipping for something that's overpriced to begin with.....


KJ, forgive the terminal prepositon! (Ya know... once upon a time I actually found a neat article about why it isn't 'wrong' to have them if, by saying it another way, it becomes too wordy... )


-L

By [email protected] on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 04:24 pm: Edit

Hey All...

so are these the correct steps?!?!?

1. drain oil
2. pour new oil in
3. remove old filter
4. put new filter in

if i do steps 1, then 2, when i do 3 wont all the oil drain out?!?!?

im used to:

1. drain oil
2. remove old filter
3. replace filter
4. fill oil

is that what was really meant?!?!? can i really remove the filter with a full engine of oil and not have it drain all over the place?

KEN

By Bill Bettridge (Billb) on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 04:48 pm: Edit

Yes - you can pull the old filter after filling the sump with new oil - oil is forced from the sump by the oil pump up to the filter housing - gravity is not doing the work.

BTW - I've always drained the oil and pulled the old filter an all vehicles and nary a problem. Rovers are nothing special, just another small block V8 - no mystery

By lynden on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 06:04 pm: Edit

I think what freaks everyone out is the Haynes manual that says if you lose prime in your oil pump you have to go through some big to-do to reprime the pump. Is this true??? I've never lost prime on an oil pump (I don't think) before by draining, pulling filter, replacing filter, replace oil. What's everyone think?
Lynden

By Kyle on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 06:09 pm: Edit

Oh my , drain the oil adn remove the filter in any order you like. Just screw a new one filled with oil on and fill the bastard back up. As Bill said , it makes no difference. As far as that little copper ring gos. well , I become attached to things on my truck , therfore it has the same oine its always had....now at 135K...


Kyle

By Ron on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 06:11 pm: Edit

I disagree.

It will lose prime and you will be sorry. I have enough bad luck to chance stuff.

Ron

By p m on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 06:15 pm: Edit

Kyle,

LOL
i've been waiting for it

By Norm Orschnorschki (Norm) on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 11:52 pm: Edit

After all tribulations I've read on this board about priming the oil pump, I started filling the filter with fresh oil before installing it. However, since the filter fits on at an angle, a certain amount of oil always spills out, depending on how fast and dexterous I am in screwing the slippery filter on.

So, to be on the safe side, before starting the motor again, I disconnect the the coil, and run the starter for several seconds until (a) the "oil" warning light goes out, in which case the oil pump is primed or (b) the battery dies, whichever occurs first.

---Norm

By Kyle on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 12:06 am: Edit

Yes Norm , that will get it done as well. Ron , if your pump is losing prime from an oil change you got other issues that should be resolved. One other guy said it back in the thread. Its just a V-8 engine , not really unique at all. No rocket science there....


Kyle