By MarkII on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 09:40 am: Edit

I just put on my new Rovertym 2" springs and Bilstein shocks. Rides great but I am noticing some driveline vibration. It isn't real bad, but noticable. Is this normal? Should I just accept that it is going to vibrate a little? I have seen postings about getting a new drive shaft on lifted vehicles. Is this for the front, rear or both?

By Bill B on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 10:44 am: Edit

Most don't have any vibration at 2", but mine did also. You have a couple options - driveshafts (expensive), OME castor correction bushings in the radius arms (this is what I did) - not expensive, but a PITA job or having Rovertym offset your radius arms. I'm not saying these are all the options, just the ones I know - others may have more suggestions.

Bill B

By Tom on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 12:25 pm: Edit

I had vibrations after my 3" lift in the front. Others have had it in the back with the rotoflex coupling.

I personally went with the new driveshaft -- I didn't have a choice as my radius arms were already RT corrected. I don't know if the radius arms alone will help you.

Whatever the case, get it fixed soon. Vibration means that it will fail. When it fails, it will break at one end, thereby whipping the entire thing around under your truck to destroy whatever it hits.

How long you have depends on how out of phase it is, how weak it has become already just from normal use, etc. When mine vibrated I ordered a new one and then simply took it off and drove with the Center Diff Lock on to avoid it breaking. Now, I have a spare that can be used to crawl out of a trail if necessary.

Tom

By Ron on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 01:22 pm: Edit

Try replacing your u joints and greasing them before you go spending real money on the problem. Otherwise buy a winch and bumper to get the front end down enough to stop the vibration.

Ron

By MarkII on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 04:18 pm: Edit

I'm looking at getting a new bumper and a winch but I've only got so much cash to blow and the shocks/springs/tires are more than enough for this month. How much does an ARB with winch weigh. I'd like to load the front end just to see if this would actually be a cure. Also has anyone gone with the new drive shaft? looking at the tech section it looks like a lot nicer setup than stock. Do they make these for the front and rear?

By Ron on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 04:22 pm: Edit

The ARB weighs about 120 or so and a winch can go from about 85 to 120. So if you can find 200lbs to hang off the very front of your truck that should be a good test. The bar and winch will lower you about 1/2 which should be enough. Make sure your U joints are greased.

Ron

By Ron on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 04:59 pm: Edit

Also, the new shaft is like 5 bills. You will only need a front unless you go REALLY high with the lift. Do you know why you will only need front for a moderate lift on a disco?

Ron

By MarkII on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 07:30 pm: Edit

Ron,
Not sure what you mean by "Do you know why you will only need front for a moderate lift on a disco? " in your previous post??? but thanks for the other info. I can find 200+ pound to hang on the front to do a short lowspeed test (that is where it is most noticable. I don't plan to go any higher than the 2" lift.

By Ron on Tuesday, February 27, 2001 - 09:25 am: Edit

You only need the front with a moderate lift because the front is shorter than the rear and therefore reachs a greater angle with a moderate lift. You really need to lift high to need a cv rear shaft on a disco (rotoflex not withstanding). Just a head scratcher for you thats all. Good luck with the 200lbs.

Ron

By MarkII on Wednesday, February 28, 2001 - 10:22 pm: Edit

For anyone still reading this thread that cares - I did my little weight test this evening. I'm actually beginning to believe I am just feeling the general effects of the stiffer springs. I still get a slight vibration when I'm in park and the drive shafts aren't even moving then but between 10-25mph I do notice more vibration than normal (thus the assumption of driveshaft issue). Loaded 200 pounds of weight plates onto the front this evening took it for a spin and did notice a very slight improvement. Thus the thought that I am just feeling the general effect of the stiffer springs. Now I am off to start a new thread about U-joint rebuilds. Thanks for all the input.

By lance on Thursday, March 29, 2001 - 09:37 am: Edit

the guy at rovertym told me that I would have to buy radius arms to cure the vibe prob. in the rear if I go with 3" is that so Ron? and also do you have any other applications that can help me get 235/85/16 on my disco like (I think they were called blue monsters and I think that I saw them on ho chung's disco, in a pic he sent me. what kind of lift will they give me and who makes them, and how much, where do I get them? etc. hey and thanks all you guys for the help this site rocks!!!!

By Ron on Thursday, March 29, 2001 - 09:48 am: Edit

With a 3in lift you will almost certainly need a new front drive shaft (cv) and probably need the rear trailing arms, and you will almost certainly need to switch from a rotoflex to u-joints if you have a rotoflex. To clear 235 85 R16s on a disco all you need is 2in of lift (not 3). Rovertym's 2in springs should work well (recently saw a disco with just this set up with 235 85 R16 dunlops on stock size rims). 3in RTE is really like about a 3.5-4in lift spring and at that level of lift a lot of high ducket items are necessary. With 2in RTEs there is some risk of vibs (see the posts above) but you will probably be ok. You could also go with OME HD springs or 2in Bearmach blue monsters but I think RTEs are best and I would advise against the Bearmachs. You will have to do some trimming to fit the 235 85s, there are pics on discoweb of how to do this and it does not look bad at all. In any case, to sum up. 3in is exspensive, 2in is fine (probably) and with that you can run the 235 85s you are itching for.

Cheers
Ron