Driveshafts and caster correction kits.

DiscoWeb Message Board: Archives - All topics: 2001 Archive - Technical Discussions: Driveshafts and caster correction kits.
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Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By E Snyder on Monday, November 05, 2001 - 09:31 pm: Edit

I've recently increased lift on my 95 from 2" to 3 1/2". (slightly more, actually.) Added 1 5/8" RT spring spacers to OME 762s. When I was only running the OME kit, I had very little driveline vibration from the front, which went away when ARB bar and winch were added. With extra lift it is back. Not terribly, but noticeable at certain speeds and certain conditions. Steering also floats more, due (as I understand it) to caster being off. I can get a caster kit, and help that. But wouldn't that make my driveline vibration worse, since I'd be increasing the angle out of the front diff? This is related to a post I had in the wanted section, looking for a DII front shaft. As far as the rotoflex, I still don't think I'm feeling any problems. How it holds up under extra flex, we'll see. I've wheeled the heck out of it at 2" lift with no problems. Any thoughts or comments from trucks with similar amount of lift would be helpful. I think (hope) the caster correction bushing kit plus the DII shaft is most cost effective way to go. Thanks.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle on Monday, November 05, 2001 - 09:34 pm: Edit

Hmmm , I dont think you are going to win with that combo. HAving the swivel balls corrected and running a DC shaft is the only solid sollution I see..


Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By JCC on Monday, November 05, 2001 - 09:36 pm: Edit

Were the Rovertym spring spacers hard to install? are the vibes real bad ? Im thinking of doing the same or I may just go with new rovertym springs! I dunno yet ....I have to think about it!I am also running OME HD right now

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By E Snyder on Monday, November 05, 2001 - 09:48 pm: Edit

Kyle- By a DC shaft you mean double cardan? The front shaft on series II disco is double cardan. At least I've been told that. You also told me on my other post I would need the yoke, as well. What exactly do you mean by swivel balls? Not much of a mechanic here... And my other question, which was about caster kit. Would that in fact make vibes worse? Thanks.

PS to other post- Spring spacers easy to put in, and the vibes aren't terrible. But I don't want them to hang around for very long.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Craig on Monday, November 05, 2001 - 10:05 pm: Edit

You'll love that castor correction kit, for about a week, or at least until the centers seperate. Don't waste your time on the castor bushings. Go with Kyle's advice, and do it right the first time.
Craig

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By andrew on Tuesday, November 06, 2001 - 12:27 am: Edit

My 94 tdi disco 285,000km, 5inch lift bordering on over-kill. The front shaft is a double cardan and rear rubber has been replaced with cv joints. I don't run with a caster kit. I think the saving grace for me is Rancho 9000 on the second hardest setting and have very firm springs, keeps the truck very tight. If you talk to head office off A.R.B in Australia they have stopped recommending caster kits for some older model Discos can not remember why but if you won't I will ring Wed and find out and email you, let me know. I have a caster kit here new, if you can figure out how to send C.O.D to U.S.A. You can have them.

Andrew Australia, Gold Coast,

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Scott Bowden (Scott_Bowden) on Tuesday, November 06, 2001 - 01:07 pm: Edit

Do not use the "castor" bushings! They have about a 1/4" of hard polyurethane for flex. They don't offer any front end articulation and will transmit vibrations easier through your vehicle. Then they will start to move around in your radius arms if you go offroad and try to flex them alot. I have them and hate them. Will be removing them soon. After such a rousing endorsment, would anyone like to buy them. :)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By E Snyder on Tuesday, November 06, 2001 - 04:43 pm: Edit

Thanks for the heads up from everyone on the caster kits. I'll spend my money on a different fix! I think I'll look into having John at RTE re-angle my front radius arms. Then DC shaft, then U-joint in rear, I guess in that order. I've had several people tell me the flange from a RR classic will work for the rear shaft. Can you swap out the whole shaft from a SWB to a Disco? Thanks,
Enoch

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Thursday, November 08, 2001 - 11:39 am: Edit

Then DC shaft,

I would do this first. Get a TT front, check your swivel preload, get a new/good steering damper. You can beat the castor if you want w/o having to buy full arms.

then U-joint in rear I've had several people tell me the flange from a RR classic will work for the rear shaft. Can you swap out the whole shaft from a SWB to a Disco?

from an 87-88 RR yes you need the pinion flange thing for the diff too.

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Phillip Perkinson (R0ver4x4) on Thursday, November 08, 2001 - 06:55 pm: Edit

so if I have the 3" RTE setup and a double cardon drive shaft I shouldnt have any problems right..well if i do then what should i do to mkae them all dissapear for ever...I dont think I will run a winch just sliders and maybe a rear bumper


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