By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 09:24 am: Edit

Can anyone tell me what 47nm equals to in pounds per? I'm trying to do my drive shaft today and my damn tork wrench doesn't have a setting for NM.

By Jeff Swanson on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 10:27 am: Edit

Eric,

47N-m = 34.64 ft-lbs = 415.62 in-lbs.

www.onlineconversion.com is a great resource for unit conversion queations.

Jeff

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 11:00 am: Edit

yep, I found that after I posted.. Also, figured out that my tork wrench doesn't go that high (go figure) so I went out and got a new one..

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 11:26 am: Edit

tork? what a dorque!


sorry, couldn't resist

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 11:37 am: Edit

ya, ya, ya.. you knew what I ment.. Now that I got the new TORQUE wrench... I still can't put the damn drive shaft in yet cause now I need a f'n special star socket for the new shaft bolts.. Back to the store again..

By Andrew Vick (Afv) on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 11:39 am: Edit

Ment, meant, mint, m.......I think Blue is offering to be the on-line, real-time spell chequer.

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 11:47 am: Edit

i spell like a chimp!

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 11:48 am: Edit

oops, I ment champ!

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 11:55 am: Edit

Huh??? Why do you need a star socket?? Is it an aftermarket shaft?

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 12:25 pm: Edit

Yep, needed a 12 point socket for the GBR front shaft.. Now I think I got every thing to put this on. I'll find out in a few minutes.

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 12:26 pm: Edit

P.S. I really miss the spell checker..

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 06:32 pm: Edit

Well I must say that sucked.. There has to be a trick to that task. Couldn't get at the bolts right and started stripping one.. Went to a local service station and got the thing up on the lift.. Used all the tools there and it still was a pain in the butt.. Mechanic that was helping couldn't believe how much of a PITA it was to lossen and tighten 12 f'n bolts.. Also, had to pull the front sway bar off as the GBR shaft is thicker then stock and with the front wheels off the ground the drive shaft hits the sway bar.. Get to drive around tomorrow and find out just how tippy it is going to be. I really hope that I don't ever have to do that again..

By MTB on Friday, November 09, 2001 - 08:36 pm: Edit

Eric
Same thing with the swaybar and shaft. this Sat I'm putting spacers on the brackets I'll let you know how it works out

Michael B

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Saturday, November 10, 2001 - 08:33 am: Edit

Eric,

I had the same issue. Spacers are the way to go if you want to keep that bar on. Check this out, I have a picture of mine.

http://www.discoweb.org/disconnects/

The rear doesn't add much when the front is on, but by itself when the front is off it helps out with the tippy a lot. That may be enough for your taste.

By the way, I am sure GBR is great, by why in the hell is it necessary to use a 12 point bolt? All Rover owners need is a nother goofy bolt for tools that don't come in a "standard" toolkit.

Tom

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Saturday, November 10, 2001 - 10:57 am: Edit

I'm going to drive around for a while and see what it is like without them..

Beats me about the bolt but, it is a nice shaft. Although I'm not sure how to grease the DC end of the shaft as I didn't see any grease nipples.. Hope you don't have to take it apart for that. Glad it came pre-greased..

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Saturday, November 10, 2001 - 03:07 pm: Edit

Well, drove around for a while today. Highway and around town and I only noticed a little difference without the sway bars on.. I'm going to leave it without them.. I thought that it would lean a lot but, it didn't. I'm sure that if I loaded it up with stuff it might but, it is just fine for me.. No sway bars needed.

By MTB on Saturday, November 10, 2001 - 07:36 pm: Edit

Tom
The GBR front shaft comes with 12point bolts that attatches the shaft to the TC adapter everything else is hex. ?????

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Saturday, November 10, 2001 - 11:24 pm: Edit

MTB,

I don't get what you typed. I have Tom Woods shafts and everything was good ole' normal bolts, no 12 point business.

Tom

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Saturday, November 10, 2001 - 11:28 pm: Edit

Eric,

If you are very brave, get up to about 70 and cut the wheel hard. If you live, let us know.

Honestly, I don't know why you guys choose to do this stuff the unsafe way. Everybody goes nuts about cones on the trail being tippy, then drives around town in something that such a higher potential for flipping in an aggressive manuever. If you guys see the RVR OVR mobile on the highway, please keep your distance.

OK, off the soap box now.

Tom

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 10:09 am: Edit

Hell, if I went 70 and cut the wheel hard with the sway bars on I would still roll over.. With out the sway bars and the HD springs with the 9000s set to 3 front 4 rear it feels and drives almost the same as with the sway bars and my worn out stock shocks and my sagging stock springs did. I even did the hard bank highway exit at about 55 and it didn't lean any more then it has been for the last year. Granted you still need to drive safely on the roads by not tail gating people, staying alert, and not driving like an idiot. I'm going to drive around for a month or two and see how it is. I'm in N.VA Tom so don't worry I won't run into you.. I'll just cut in front of you and then slam on my brakes. I haven't used the cones off road yet so don't know if they are tippy or not..

By Kyle on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 10:17 am: Edit

Tom and I agree here. Much more energy is put into "cool" then is put into safe. That front bar is a PITA though in reguards to the front end travel. Even if spaced the damn thing is in the way and the DS hits it.
Eric , you playing with the magical knobs? LOL Those knobs are there more for your head then anything else...

Kyle

By Kyle on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 10:19 am: Edit

The 12 pointed fastener is much stronger to engage with a tool. The ones Eric has there are ford bolts. Ford has been using them for years on the driveshafts. Compact and strong...


Kyle

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 10:21 am: Edit

Eric,

Lemme step back up onto the soap box here....

OK...There must be some magic there. I've got the same shocks and RT springs. Commuting many miles a day, I have been in the 70 mph situation more than twice, with and without the bars. Believe me, the bars help out, big time.

Off ramps and such will be the same because it is controlled and you are ready for it. It's when you cut that wheel that you have a chance of going bye bye.

If nothing else, at least give it a try with keeping the rear on. Buy some diconnects or go with some home grown ones. Do it for the person who isn't you whose life you may save.

I would hate to the news talking about another SUV rollover and hear that it was a Rover, especially a modified one. As soon as that becomes a problem that's publicised, watch our mods face much more scrutiny.

Off the soapbox again..

Tom

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 10:25 am: Edit

Kyle,

Holy crap, we are in agreement. Woo Hoo. An unstoppable force, now.

Take a look at the my disconnect pics in the tech section. My spacers are big enough because they were built with the front axle FULLY dropped. You can keep the front bar on and wheel like crazy if you would like.

Gotcha on the bolts.

Tom

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 10:39 am: Edit

Ok, so here's a question.. If you use quick disconnects how do you keep the bar from getting in your way while your wheeling? Won't it just flop around since it isn't connected to anything? Or get all bent up when it gets caught on some thing?

By Kyle on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 10:50 am: Edit

Yeah , if you just leave it hanging bad shit will happen. You would have to devise some sort of second attachement for it while is off. If you start gettign any kind of front travel. I imagine Toms there is still pretty stiff so he isnt getting it with the spacers. My spacers would have to make it hang down kinda bad. I am looking for two new bars. One with a curve in it for the front..

Kyle

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 11:01 am: Edit

Are you running the front bar and if so, how have you kept it from hitting the drive shaft? Or are you running the stock front shaft which is smaller? Tom is running disconnects front and rear from what I got from the pictures.

By Kyle on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 11:06 am: Edit

No , I had to take mine off completely. My rear remains with no disconnects. Doesnt seem to slow me down does it ? You have been out with us and seen first hand....

Kyle

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 11:18 am: Edit

No, it doesn't slow you down.. Have you been in a situation where the rear bar by it's self has made a difference on the street? I can put the rear one back on but the front would need a new one with a bend in it like you were talking about.. A bend backwards and not downwards would be the best as it wouldn't hang down then.. The spacers look like they hang down farther then the AB skid plate that I still haven't put on. However, with some plate Tom could turn that into a sway bar spacer/cat protection device.

By Kyle on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 11:35 am: Edit

Yeah , the rear bar helps allot in highway driving with a loaded rack. Would help more if it was thicker. The front one is really missed when you matt the brake and hook the wheel to avoid something (Daily accurance in DC). Without the bar all kindsa bad shit starts to happen. Sure you get used to it, but even then you still need more room to move when it happens. I dont have the mystical knobs on the shocks so when it happens , I just say out load. "OH YEAAAAHHH , I GOT THIS BITCH!!" I think it has about the same affect....

Kyle

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 11:36 am: Edit

You zip-tie or bungee cord them up. The rear one swings all the back so it is pointing to the rear behind the truck. Then bungee cord or zip tie it to the trailer tie down rings that are part of the frame.

My front one just pushes upward and doesn't need anything to keep it there because it is out of the way.

Tom

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 11:37 am: Edit

LOL!!!!!!!

BTW - My mystical knobs are set all the way to one for a sweet ride with the bars on.

Tom

By Kyle on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 11:49 am: Edit

I really love those little black knobs.. If that shit had a digital readout Rancho would be the industry leader in sales... You would see people stopped on the side of the interstate getting out to have a peak.... Hmmm , maybe a neon LCD panel on each shock and some little buttons with neon colored booties on em so they dont become any more worthless then they were from the start......... yeah , I am diggin it....


Kyle

By Rob Davison (Pokerob) on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 12:05 pm: Edit

those little knobs make a difference kyle,

you put em on 5 and it's the harshest riding mofo, you ever seen... put em on 1 and it's big pimpin' i'm bouncing up and down as i drive.. hehe

i keep em on 3 and just deal with it. nowhere as nice as the woodeheads though


--

sway bars off.. well i tell you what i have the rear off and front on. braking still blows with the front on.. i am all over the place. especially if it's on the highway going 60 around a bend and down hill. if it's raining it could be all over.

rd

By Kyle on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 12:34 pm: Edit

Yes Rob , I know of the power of the knobs...I didnt get that acrost up top in that post ?

Kyle

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 04:03 pm: Edit

So Rob, how do you keep your drive shaft from hitting the sway bar.. Looking for ideas here. Tom has huge metal spacers, what do you have? Or are you just letting you drive shaft rub?

By Rob Davison (Pokerob) on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 11:03 pm: Edit

well i dont have an aftermarket shaft.

and you were there for the very first vib's i've experienced after about 1 year i have about 3" lift BTW.

as for the drive shaft rubbing, i suspect it would only rub under full flex, and well when that happens i'm going really slow , so i'll just let it rub a little. but i'm oblivious to whether or not that has ever happened...

ya dig?

how bad does it rub anyway? i'd probably just take it off and say fuckit.

rd

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 07:53 am: Edit

Lets just say that when I had the truck up on the lift at the service station we had to jack the front axle up about 2-3 inchs in order to bolt the new shaft onto front pinion.. It was also hitting right where a balance weight is so I would hate to have that get rubbed off.