By Steve (Steve2) on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 09:25 pm: Edit

going to do the 'ct' cut in preparation of 235-85's. what is the best way to cut the rear panel?

cut and then fold over so it's not a sharp edge - or just cut and not worry about it?
what to use to cut and what to use to fold?

thanks!!
steve

By Ed H on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 11:02 pm: Edit

I want to know too.

By johnvigg on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 11:21 pm: Edit

there was a tech section on the page somewhere i thought, i was going to finish off mine by painting the lower half with rhino liner to hide the imperfections
john

By Steve (Oz93discov8) on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 12:56 am: Edit

d:\steve\photos
mvc-049f.jpg

By marty amedeo (Marty) on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 01:52 am: Edit

Use tinsnips or aviation snips to cut the metal. Then clamp a piece of 3/4" plywood to the inside of the fender and tap the metal over gently with a rubber hammer using the wood as a dolly. Do this in stages, you may have to make several passes to get a nice clean edge. If your careful, you won't even crack the paint!!

When you make the cut, leave a 1/4" for this return bend. Using the plywood allows you to form cuts with a radius, just cut the plywood to the radius you want to use.

By Danno on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 01:54 am: Edit

Cut And Fold.
the quickest way is to use metal shears and a pliers. to get a nice arch, use a metal ruler.
i think i went up 12" on the wheel well and back 1.5"

By Bill Bettridge (Billb) on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 08:13 am: Edit

I've got pix the the "Camel Trophy Cut" and was considering hacking mine a bit more in that fashion, but has anyone done it and taken any measurements of how far up/far back to cut?

Thanks

By Scott Bowden (Scott_Bowden) on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 08:15 am: Edit

I trimmed my truck and a friends with a body saw. Similar to a jig saw. The best thing is preparation. Use some masking tape to layout the line of cut. Keep moving the tape until you get the desired shape. Try to pull the tape so the fender follows the line from the top. Put the tape on the side that will remain. It will also protect the paint. Trim very slowly and take your time. when you are done with the saw leave the tape on, fine file to finish. If your cut is at the tape touch up the edge with matching paint. The goal is to have an edge and shape no one notices is different than stock.

By Peter Miller (Njrover) on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 05:51 am: Edit

Steve,

Check out http://www.discocrazy.org/fendertrimming.htm

Pete

By Tom P. on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 12:29 pm: Edit

You guys are nuts using metal shears and pliers!

- Mask the area off with tape. I used that blue masking tape for edging walls because I had it handy. Then draw right on the tape to form your template.

- Cut with a dremmel tool cut-off wheel.

The whole procedure will take about 15 minutes. The dremel will make a nice clean cut - no need for bending, folding cleaning up...

Tom P.

By Steve (Steve2) on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 12:39 pm: Edit

ok - so if you just cut off the section - is there any need to treat the edge with something? or just leave it as is? is there a danger of the edge impacting the tire tread and slicing it up or if enough is trimmed then all is safe is guess

i was going to dremmel and then fold over a bit making horizontal relief slits here and there - but if it's safe to just cut the bastard off - then i guess that is what i will do!

mine will most likely look like steve oz's - steve what size tire is that?

thanks guys!

steve

By Gil Stevens (Gil) on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 12:46 pm: Edit

sawzall....

By Moe on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 01:14 pm: Edit

Sawzall! Damn how do you control that puppy?

Steve, a dremmel tool and small grinder is the way to go. You will have trouble folding the aluminum as it might have a tendency to split. Just cut and sand off any rough edges and it should be fine

By John Lee on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 01:15 pm: Edit

I completely agree with Tom P. about the tin snips. Don't use these. It's easy to mangle the bodywork with snips.

I much prefer the masking tape and Dremel tool approach. It's slower but it's much more precise. There is no deformation of the bodywork either, as the cutting wheel of the Dremel does not cause the bodywork to move.

After cutting with the Dremel tool, finish the edge with various files and sandpaper.

Do not butcher your vehicle.

By anon on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 01:43 pm: Edit

I just did some cutting over the weekend with a reciprocating saw. No paint chipping or etc.

By cartner on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 05:31 pm: Edit

I heard a chain saw is the way to go....:-) just try to keep it within the lines.....

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 07:35 pm: Edit

sawzall 'cause my wimpy rechargeable "dremmel" just doesn't have the balls. Just call me The Butcher. Damn.

By Steve (Steve2) on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 07:50 pm: Edit

after talking to ho and john - i'm going to measure about 1.25" in on the bottom and draw a line up to the bottom of the side moulding. this will create an isocoles triangle look.

going to blue tape the panel and use a dremel (thanks john) and make my own 'ct' cut. it will look alot like gil's. then get a file and round out the edge a little so it's not sharp. and god willing i then can run down to the tire store and get my 235-85's put on by tommorow night.

thanks to all who shared - here goes PONR!

steve

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 10:10 pm: Edit

Mr. Peanut cut mine for me whilst the family and I slept cozy in our beds with visions of peanut brittle dancing in our heads.

By Moe on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 10:38 am: Edit

I think I prefer that early prototype sticker over the finished product. I like the crayon-like finish. Any of those for sale?

By Marc on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 10:50 am: Edit

Steve-
I want to see pictures - sounds like what I will need to do also.
-Marc

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 10:59 am: Edit

Millions of dollars of R&D went into that prototype sticker...or at least millions went into microsoft paint, which is what I was playing with that day...

By Steve (Steve2) on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 05:16 pm: Edit

the deed is done. of course one side is always easier then the other. might get some metal side moulding crap from pep boys to 'dress' the metal.

the hardest part was keeping the line straight - but got that cleaned up with a nice fine file. my heart was sure jumping when i started making the first cuts!!

steve
marc- i should have some pic later and email you - did your toy show up yet?

By Ed H on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 05:49 pm: Edit

Steve,

Pls send me a pic also.

By p m on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 10:41 pm: Edit

Gil, why don't you buy a set of right lug nuts?

i've been told that stock nuts would look funny with steel wheels - indeed they do.

futuras rule!

peter

By gil on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 08:49 am: Edit

im workin on it man... i figured hey, better to drive with the wrong lugs than to drive with no lugs at all.... but thanks for the tip..

By Wes Legaspi (Wes) on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 09:12 am: Edit

How are futuras in the snow?

By Slider on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 10:10 am: Edit

I found the nicest cut was from an air powered body saw. Sawzall type (recipricating)

Real high RPM and narrow blade - cut like butter.

Gil - nice wheels man!!!

By Slider on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 10:25 am: Edit

235/85's don't need too much trimming!!!
All the pic's posted look like a little too much; like they were done for the 265's.

Like BlueGill's pic's...
it's somewhere between his green and blue lines.

Also...
Cut one side, lay over a piece of paper, trace your cut, flip the paper over, lay it on the other side of truck, & there's your template.

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 11:54 am: Edit

Slider's right. I never cut that blue line because the green cut proved sufficient (especially after swapping those rear OME MDs for HDs). Now I'm in the process of cleaning up my texas chainsaw massacre. I agree wholeheartedly with John Lee - avoid butchering your Rover at all costs. My mistake was not trimming enough, and then the lugs butchered the bodywork while I was reversing out of a cross-axled spot. Tsk tsk. Plan ahead gentlemen...

By Phillip Perkinson (R0ver4x4) on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 03:57 pm: Edit

so if I have 30/9.5 as appose4c to 30/12 would I have to trim...is trimming have to do with the width or hieght??? or in cases both..whats the biggest I can go without having to butcher my 1/4 panels

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 04:03 pm: Edit

>"is trimming have to do with the width or hieght??? or in cases both.."

it's a little of both - width is the obvious factor, but extra height puts that wider shoulder up there so it'll hit sooner. Picture the tire/wheel/axle tilting inboard as the tire tucks in there...

>"whats the biggest I can go without having to butcher my 1/4 panels"

245/75 & 235/85 only require a little trimming that you will never notice unless you're the most discriminating Rover-phile with your head stuck in the wheel well. What suspension are you running (springs & shocks)?

By Phillip Perkinson (R0ver4x4) on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 04:39 pm: Edit

nothign yet for I have no rover probally when i get one it will be the RTE 3" yeah it will definatly be that.

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 05:47 pm: Edit

hmmm...you generally don't have to trim if there is nothing to trim...

By Phillip Perkinson (R0ver4x4) on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 06:16 pm: Edit

hey

By Jordan on Wednesday, November 21, 2001 - 10:39 pm: Edit

Now thats funny! Just do what I did, Go to the local used car lot, offer them 4-5 grand less than they are asking, buy the toy, love it, hug it, and cut it and have loads of fun!!!