By ken on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 02:43 pm: Edit

My drivers side window (power) fell into the door yesterday... after taking the "trim panel" off i was supprised to see a cresent shaped piece of metal with what looks like gear teeth on one side.

after closer examination it looks like this cresent shaped piece was the "gear / cam" that raised the window... well i looks like there are three small "spot welds" that connected this (at one time) gear thingy to the part that raises the window...

couple quick questions..

1. anyone else had this failed before?!?!?
2. how do you remove the "scissor" thingy that raises the window? i was able to disconnect the motor but cant seem to remove it, or the scissor like thing that raises and lowers the window
3. if you've seen this/had this happen to you.. how did you fix it... was the part expensive?!?!?


any help is appreciated..

thanks

KEN

By gil on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 02:45 pm: Edit

you need a new regulator... i think

By ken on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 02:55 pm: Edit

anyone have any insight on how much this part cost / how hard it is to replace?!?!?

By Punchy325 on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 03:46 pm: Edit

$50-$100 depending if it is a new or used regulator (check out motocarsltd.com). I haven't done the front window, but I am in the process of doing the driver side rear. It is pretty easy to remove and replace.

By Craig on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 03:55 pm: Edit

Ken-
you need a new regulator- part number CUH102310
They are about $90 from a dealer. pretty simple to install. careful with the door panel clips though.
Craig
LRDE

By ken on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 05:22 pm: Edit

Hey Punchy325

i tried using www.motocarsltd.com and couldnt get anything... is this the correct URL?

thx

KEN

By William Turner (Wturner) on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 07:17 pm: Edit

My rear driver side broke! It is $108 (I think).

All that really broke was the little piece of plastic, but I have to replace the whole damn arm.

SHIT

By Punchy325 on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 07:44 pm: Edit

Give this a try. Sorry about that.

www.motorcarsltd.com (forgot the "r")

The little plastic bushing broke on my rear driver side as well. The whole assembly is ~$70 at the site listed above. I'm going to see if the machine shop at work can turn down a new bushing and push out and re-install the pin it mounts to...got to be a way around paying so much for such a small piece of plastic. Thanks to Rob for the idea.

By drbuck on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 03:05 pm: Edit

Ken,

The spot welds broke on mine while wheeling in early spring...a cold ride home. The fix is quite simple and inexpensive. Don't buy a new requlator if the spot welds broke! My brother and I fixed this in approximately 1 hour. We took pictures during the repair and I have them at home if you would like a copy.

1. Unbolt and remove the regulator (scissor thingy) through the large opening at the bottom of the door. Don't drop the window! You will probably need a second set of hands.

2. Once removed, clamp the two sides of the broken regulator back into place. Drill through the three spot welds. You are going to tap the one side of the regulator so that you can bolt it to the other side. Take a good look at how the mechanism works here because one side has enough clearance for bolt heads and the other does not. Tap the correct side (I don't recall which side it is that gets tapped...I think it is the side towards the motor???). You will have to use a slightly larger drill on the other side so that you can get the bolts through.

3. Once you have drilled, tapped one side, and drilled a larger hole in the opposite side you can put the bolts into place with lots of loctite. Cut the excess bolt off with a Dremel tool. As a further precaution, we took a punch and hammered the the edge of the cut off bolts so that they would not vibrate themselves loose.

4. You may want to test the mechanism before you put it back into the door. Watch your hands--trust me!

5. Reassmble!

This repair cost a total of $6 Canadian--I think that translates to $0.53 US!

We purchased all the supplies at Home depot...a fine thread tap with the appropriate size drill (they came as a set), and 3 bolts to match. I don't recall which bolt head we used. Have a look at the clearance in the mechanism and it should be clear what head will fit.

Good Luck,

drbuck

PS. Take the money you saved (approx. $100US) and buy more tools or more mods for Rover!!!!! All the best.

By Ron on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 03:08 pm: Edit

All that really broke was the little piece of plastic, but I have to replace the whole damn arm.

I have purchased little peices of plastic that fit. They are a part for a toilet. if you want to upgrade you can use a bushing for a wiper motor found under the help brand at pep boys etc. but you have to mod it a bit.

Ron

By Mike Cox on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 11:42 am: Edit

Wow, Deja vu! I am changing my drivers side front and rear regulators now.

I got the rear for $25 and the front for $35 from:

http://www.roverclubhouse.com/

The three spot welds broke on the front one, and the nylon bushing broke on the rear one.

I tried to drill and reconnect the front regulator assembly, but evidently I was unable to align the parts correctly because I could get it to work a couple of times, but then it would lock-up the assembly. with the amount of time I was putting in it, the $35.00 replacement cost was the better route.

I've received the rear regulator already and will be installing it this weekend. When the front comes in, I think I will take it over to a friends and have him MIG the two parts togeather. evidentlly this is a weak point for the Rover windows.

By the way, find out which regulator and motor assembly you have, There is both a German and Japanese assembly, and they do not cross fit. The German assembly is a beefier unit, unfortunately, I needed the Japanese unit. They told me there was a change in mid '95.

Hope this helps,

Mike