Rear diff blew question PLEASE HELP ME!!!

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Anyone??? please help..  4   11/15 05:45pm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By joey lafever on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 02:27 pm: Edit

I have the new diff installed under my truck before I realized that I need to change the flange that mounts to my silly rotoflex... I can't get the three bolt flange off of my old diff to put it on the new diff that came with a four bolt flange because it is actually a front diff.. does anyone kow how to take the flange off.. I think it is pressed on?? there are no bolts clamps or anything I can see.. I have tried all by back yard methods and it won't come off?? PLEASE HELP ME

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 02:58 pm: Edit

oh shit. Did you also get a new non-rotoflex rear driveshaft? You can't mate the stock driveshaft directly to a 4-bolt flange diff. You need the rotoflex coupling in there or a new driveshaft with a u-joint. Who'd you buy the diff from? Private deal, or did you buy from a vendor? Did the seller know that you needed a rear diff and you were using the rotoflex coupling? You may be getting yourself into "bought part A, now I need to buy part B, which will lead to needing part C, etc" Sorry if I am the bearer of bad news.

Have you talked to Bill Davis @ http://greatbasinrovers.com/ ?

He's the man to discuss these issue with.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By p m on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 03:36 pm: Edit

joey,

now you have a great opportunity to convert to non-rotoflex rear prop shaft!

peter

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 03:44 pm: Edit

Joey,

I hate to break it to you but you are SOL.

The easist thing is to buy a new rear driveshaft that is U-joints. 87-88 Rangies and Disco I from late 97 on and some of the early ones have them and they will fit. Used $100-150 usually.

The other thing you can do is take off the old pinion and flange off your broken dif and install it on the new dif. This is somewhat challenging and I have not done it so I don't know what to tell you. At the y very least you might have to replace the pinion seal.

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By pjkbrit on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 04:00 pm: Edit

You can get the old flange off...you need a puller to remove the center bush...that's why there is a thread hole there...it will be a bitch to get off...underneath, you will see the flange/pinion nut to undo. I do not know if the flange will fit your new diff though.
Pete

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 05:43 pm: Edit

here's the flange & pinion nut exposed with the centering peg off:
flange & pinion - no peg "rear diff flange2"

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By joey lafever on Tuesday, November 20, 2001 - 11:52 am: Edit

would it be bad to not push the centering peg back in and run it without.. really the bolts/rotoflex hold everything together.. I just don't want the hassle of having to remove that peg (I don't own a puller) next time this happens.. Thanks for all the help guys.. I did put the peg back in and I am on the road and running great.. I just hope the front doesn't go on the next hill climb.. this weekend!!!! but at least now I know how to fix it... I hate working on cars..

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By pjkbrit on Tuesday, November 20, 2001 - 12:44 pm: Edit

Put the peg back in with copperslip high temp grease smeared all around and it'll come out easily the next time...I have had to te-torque my pinion nut 3 times in the last 10000 miles...using NEW nuts...still seems to work loose and then the clonking and whining begins....nasty cheapo diffs these!!!


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