By William Turner (Wturner) on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 10:34 am: Edit

on the 'rear diff blew up' thread, a few of you said that you have some taking up space. I hear Major clunking from time to time when shifting from park to reverse, or drive to reverse, or even right around 50mph where the tranny acts kind of silly (I think the silly shifting is typical, but the clunking isn't).

Anyhoo, I think I may loose a diff soon, so how much do you want for those gears???

By PerroneFord on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 10:52 am: Edit

Your problem doesn't sound like R&P to me, but I'm sure people will cut deals. A new set from GBR is $395, RN sells the 3.54 R&P for $196, and Mansfield Motors UK for 99 pounds, so I imagine you should be able to swing a set for $100-$150 or so. I've only got one spare set right now in 3.54.

-P

By William Turner (Wturner) on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 11:22 am: Edit

'Your problem doesn't sound like R&P to me'

So does the problem sound like??

It is rather anoying, and chilling at times.

By PerroneFord on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 11:43 am: Edit

From what I have heard here and other places, it sounds more like a transfer case than a Diff. But I am sure those with more experience will jump in and give you a hand. I'm really just learning about all the diff stuff. Only "clunking" it seems they can make if from those running a Detroit locker (or if you've sheared a tooth off a ring gear!).

-P

By Kyle on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 11:48 am: Edit

THe slop is in the spider gears. Not the R&P or the TCase. The TCase does develop some slop in it but 99% of the time its the spider gears..

Kyle

By PerroneFord on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 11:53 am: Edit

Hey kyle, is this slop from wear on those gears over time? Since I've just started learning about diffs, this is pretty interesting to me. I understand that those gears are taking most of the shear load from the axles, and I could see how they would be prone to wear (they are pretty small too).

Can you give any more details about this stuff? Also, assuming this is correct, changing to a new carrier (locker) should take a lot of slop out of the drivetrain, yes?

Thanks,

-P

By Kyle on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 11:58 am: Edit

Yeah , the gears are crap. I have seen allot of the same thing with GM rears as well. What you get with the Rover is the spiders eating into the carrier and increasing the clearance between the gears , the cross shaft bore becoming sloppy and the spiders themselves showing age. A locker completely eliminates it in most cases.

Kyle

By William Turner (Wturner) on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 12:11 pm: Edit

By the way, I only have 59,000 miles.

Call me stupid, but where are the spider gears? Inside the Diff??

If so, all I need to do is get that Detroit locker like I want to do anyway, and be done with it, RIGHT?? If I do that, then do I REALLY have to change the half shafts as well like they tell me?

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 12:11 pm: Edit

Is this what causes a clunking sound for lack of a better word when going about 50mph and you take your foot of the gas and then put it back on? Like there is slack some where and it lets up when taking the foot off the gas and then when you put it back on it catches up and then connects? If that makes any sence to you..

By William Turner (Wturner) on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 12:15 pm: Edit

Exactly Eric,
plus 50mph is that odd place where the tranny really doesn't know what to do, so it will shift around way too much, thus increasing the "clunkage". If I know I have to travel right at 50 for any distance, I will just knock it back into 3rd, and force the tranny to stay in one gear.

By Kyle on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 12:22 pm: Edit

Yep Detroit will remove any slack in the diff. (The one diff) and yes , get the shafts..

Kyle

By William Turner (Wturner) on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 12:26 pm: Edit

Awe, but it's sooooo much more

By PerroneFord on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 12:33 pm: Edit

Willam, I will relay to you what Bill Davis at GBR told me. You can buy the 10 spline detroit locker and not buy the axles. Thats ~$500 for the locker. You will break the axle and probably take the Detroit with it. Now you will need to replace the Detroit and the axle. If you stay with 10 spline, you'll eventually break the other side, or break the new one again, and probably take the locker with it.

It doesn't take a genius or an accountant to see that doing the axle upgrade and locker at the same time is the way to go. I chose the middle of the road, and bought a used set of stock 24 spline axles for cheap, and will be buying the locker soon. Then, as money allows, I will replace the OEM axles with HD axles. And then sell the OEM axles or keep them as spares.

-P

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 12:46 pm: Edit

Ok, so then when I go and get lockers and shafts this little annoyance should go away?

By Rob Davison (Pokerob) on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 12:48 pm: Edit

or , just keep the shifter in 3rd gear. thats what i do..

i have the detroit and it did eliminatet that 50mph clunk for a while, but now it's back. i guess it's the front diff now. also i have madd slack in my drive line. i dont shift from park unless the foot is firmly on the break, it seems to help the clunk.

rd

By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 12:51 pm: Edit

Ya, mine clunks like that as well but, not all the time. My drive shafts don't have any play in them but if you put both front wheels off the ground you can move the wheel a good bit before it turns the drive shaft or the other wheel for that matter..

By Ron on Tuesday, November 20, 2001 - 09:33 am: Edit

TT will not toast 24 spline shafts like a DL will.

That would solve your problem, but you might even need two as both difs are usually effected.

Ron

By pjkbrit on Tuesday, November 20, 2001 - 12:57 pm: Edit

See my other post...but it's REALLY worth checking both the rotoflex coupling and the pinion nut torque on the rear diff....if you grab the back of the propshaft and can move it laterally at all...you have a bunch of "clonk" right there. I retorqued my pinion nut which was loose adn it removed a ton of driveline slack. It costs nothing to do but getting the centering pin out of the diff flange that 1st time is a total bastard!!!