By Rob on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 04:49 am: Edit

Please help me I am an idiot when it comes to this. I'm good on the Gap but how to I measure the torgue? Anything else I should know before installing the Magnecore wires and new plugs?

By Steven Henry on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 07:01 am: Edit

A torque wrench. It allows you to set the torque that is recommended in the manual. Once it reaches that torque, it will slip (click) letting you know that it is at the desired torque.


Steven

By Joshua Bova (Jbova) on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 07:30 am: Edit

Not too tight, not too loose. Maybe a 1/4 turn past hand tight. One more thing DO NOT REPLACE THE PLUGS IF THE BLOCK IS HOT. The block is aluminum and relatively soft, if the block is hot you greatly increase your chances of stripping the threads which is something you really don't want to do.

As for the Magnecores, do one wire at a time, as to avoid screwing up the firing order. Also, pinch the boot of the wire just above the little metal connector inside, this will prevent air from getting trapped inside the boot and causing the wires to shoot off the plugs. If this happens, don't flip out, not a big deal, just stick it back on.

The magnecores are direct replacements, so match up the lengths and the ends i.e. angled or straight and you'll be fine.

Good luck.

-josh

P.S. what year is your truck. If a 94-95, while you are there, replace the cap and rotor. They tend to get a little funky and it is nice to have all your ignition system brandy new.

By Ron on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 07:33 am: Edit

Ah yes good advise on all fronts. ONE at a time. Also if you really want to do it right smear a little anti- sieze on the threads of the plugs.

Ron

By Rob on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 07:33 am: Edit

Thanks Steven what should it be set at for a 96 Disco?

By Rob on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 07:36 am: Edit

Joshua so do you need a torque wrench or can you just place them in 1/4 past hand tight. does it make that big of a difference?

By Joshua Bova (Jbova) on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 08:41 am: Edit

I have never used a torque wrench when changing plugs, the only time I had trouble was with my wife's Miata, not quite tight enough. The loud rapping noise a week after I sold it freaked out the woman who bought it. I tightened them up and all was well. The basic idea is make sure that they are tight, but too tight will is bad (goes back to aluminum blocks being soft). I think you will be fine without one.

Another tip you may find useful. The plugs are sometimes difficult to get in, they sit at an angle and you must be very careful not to cross thread them. To avoid this, either use an extension and sparkplug socket to turn them in by hand or you can cut a little piece of hose that fits over the end of the plug and use that to help you turn the plug. Either way, you should be able to thread them all the way in by hand before tightening them. If not, back it out and do it again. Also a goo idea to clean the block around the old plugs before removing them, keeps crap from falling in the cylinders.

If you have any more questions, you can e-mail me, either click on the blue Joshua or here joshua.bova@mwhse.com

Good luck.

-josh

By pjkbrit on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 08:59 am: Edit

Also...add a drop of oil on the thread of the new plugs going in...you will never have a problem removing them the next time and it reduces the chances of a cross thread in the first place.
Pete

By Joshua Bova (Jbova) on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 09:47 am: Edit

Good point. There are also various anti-seize products that you can use. Worth the effort, especially in an aluminum block, the steel of the pugs and the block have different expansion rates and that can get them pretty stuck in there sometimes.
-josh

By Bill B on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 11:19 am: Edit

Don't mean to nit-pick, but using engine oil as an anti-seize is not a good idea. Most dedicated anti-seize compounds protect to 1600 deg F, and some higher, while engine cooks and turns into goo at a few hundred degrees - the oil can actually make the situation worse. Protect that aluminum block and heads as much as possible and use real anti-seize on anything steel that goes into them.

By Kevin D on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 11:52 am: Edit

Joshua Bova wrote: "One more thing DO NOT REPLACE THE PLUGS IF THE BLOCK IS HOT. The block is aluminum and relatively soft, if the block is hot you greatly increase your chances of stripping the threads which is something you really don't want to do."

I am planning to test compression while I replace spark plugs at upcoming 90K service. The compression tester instructions advise that the engine should be at operating temperature, not cold -- but then this seems to contradict the precaution against stripping the threads.

Is "engine operating temperature" somewhere between hot and cold?

By Joshua Bova (Jbova) on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 01:49 pm: Edit

No. It is just a general rule to do work on your engine when it is cold, makes things easier and much safer. If you are going to do a compression test, you will need to have the engine hot, but in this case you need to exercise caution in replacing the plugs. Also, just to make this a bit more interesting, the sparkplugs sit in the block in close proximity to the exhaust manifold which will guarantee a burnt knuckle or two.


Enjoy and be careful.

-josh