By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Friday, August 31, 2001 - 03:53 am: Edit

I moved this after I realized I put it under an old thread.
===============

Lately, my IIA has developed a new trick. When hot, it will continue to turn over after I shut it down for a second or two.

Points and plugs look good. They are a nice grey/brown with no fouling. I "think" the timing is OK. The original Solex is still in place and
even though I did a partial rebuild with new gaskets and seals, it is again slowly dribbling.

Any ideas on the cause? I've also switched grades of gas to see, but the results are the same. The truck runs fine, though the idle is erratic
at times (again I blame the Solex). Power and excelleration are OK, but fuel economy seems a bit low (though I can't confirm as the
speednometer is buggered so I don't trust the odometer).

I also think my exaust manifold has developed a crack. Is there a trick to seeing if the crack has gone through or if it's just on the surface?

By Ron on Friday, August 31, 2001 - 04:00 am: Edit

The truck runs fine, though the idle is erratic
at times (again I blame the Solex).

Adjust the idle lower. Also make sure the switch is not still giving power to the coil in the off position. maybe time for a solex rebuild since the kits are so much $$$ I have had luck with just gaskets and a very good cleaning.

I also think my exaust manifold has developed a crack. Is there a trick to seeing if the crack has gone through or if it's just on the surface?

You will see black soot eventually if it has gone through, also you can usually actually feel exhaust coming through.

Cheers
Ron

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Friday, August 31, 2001 - 04:11 am: Edit

If I go lower on the idle, the truck runs pretty rough. I'll keep playing with it.

Just cleaned and replaced all the gaskets and seals less then 2 weeks ago on the Solex. Back to square one. I think a Rochester is in my future.

On the manifold, that's what I thought (look for the soot and signs of exaust), but I wanted to get another opinion. So far, I see/hear/feel nothing so that's good.

I'll check the coil later today.

By Discosaurus (Discosaurus) on Friday, August 31, 2001 - 05:24 am: Edit

The run-on sounds like carbon fouling...

keith
discosaurus

By Ron on Friday, August 31, 2001 - 05:31 am: Edit

If you get a rochester, might want to consider an M if you are not driving it a lot or worried about fuel consumption, the power has to be felt to be appreciated.

Check your timing too. That can be part of the issue. Timing depends on what head you have and the grade of gas.

Cheers
Ron

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Friday, August 31, 2001 - 05:36 am: Edit

It's a daily driver. My wife drives the Discovery.

I need to play with the timing. It's still has the original 7:1 head. The valve guides are bad (surprise!), but i still get good compression across all 4 cylinders so I'm not fixing what isn't broke. I recently went to mid-range 89 octane gas. I'll run a few tanks and set it after that.

I like the Rochester as it's a drop in for the Solex linkage, it's easy and robust, and will work with my stock oil bath air filter when I go play in the dirt. There is also good support for it from BP and their shop is just an hour away.

By Ron on Friday, August 31, 2001 - 05:47 am: Edit

I need to play with the timing.

I bumped mine way up. I forget exactly how much. You have to remember that your truck way designed for 70 octane. To be honest going to 89 would probably make it worse, although some people really move advance it and run 93 (why I dunno)

cheers
Ron

PS I meant the M Rochester, the B is ok but the M gives it some real power. Noah will do 75 and does not have too big a problem with the hills.

PPS do you run a lead additive? CD 2 makes life easier on your valves Wal-mart $6 for enough to do about 30 tanks of gas

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Friday, August 31, 2001 - 06:14 am: Edit

Yeah, I put CD2 in with each tank. It's about $3 a bottle here and each tank gets about 1/2 a bottle. I was running regular, but went to midrange at a suggestion. Only the first tank, so I don't know how it will work. Switching back will only make things happier for the wallet.

Wasn't sure what you meant about the carb. Thanks for clearing that up. I'm carb illiterate (among other things). I was planning to try to find the standard Rochester BV that most folks seem to suggest.

Do you run an overdrive? I don't have one, but want to get one before the year is out. The truck seems content to cruise at 55MPH which is nice. Haven't had to play with any real hills though.

By Ron on Friday, August 31, 2001 - 06:21 am: Edit

Do you run an overdrive?

I traded my OD for a Koenig winch. Never had one installed. Since the winch goes in the OD hole in the t-case won't be getting one either. I will go to 34x 9.50 swampers when the SAGs get toasted or I have an unrepairable flat.

I don't have one, but want to get one before
the year is out. The truck seems content to cruise at 55MPH which is nice. Haven't had to play with any real hills though.

I just flog the crap out of the truck. It has 32s on it now and at anything more than 60 it sounds really loud, but I end up keeping it a 70 most of the time. Does not burn oil or run hot or anything. OD help but you have to really stay on top of gear changes going into 3rd before you start to lose momentum.

Cheers
Ron

B is a fine carb, I just like the M because I get more power, with the B you can chose and get different ones, not sure which is ideal for youruse but I am sure BP would have a recommendation.

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Saturday, September 01, 2001 - 08:14 am: Edit

Carbon fouling , drippy carb and ignition timing all get my votes. In later model cars they used a little solonoid to kill the gas supply when the ignition was turned off. as you idle it down your mixture will be more important. You will have to get that shit just right. Ron , does that thing have just one screw? And if the screw isnt responding you got issues..

Kyle

By Anonymous on Sunday, September 02, 2001 - 01:30 pm: Edit

If its deseling use a higher octain.

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Sunday, September 02, 2001 - 05:50 pm: Edit

Kyle,

I agree that it's the carb. The timing was pretty close and we re-adjusted it again today yet it still wants to diesel. I think the float bowl is leaking down (even after a rebuild, it is a drippy little SOB). We played with the mixture and idle adjustments and it's running better, but there's still the run on. I think a Rochester conversion is in my very near future.

Also, my distributor has a bit of a wobble which is causing a slight miss. I think a Petronix system will be a lot more "forgiving" of the wobble. Once that's in, I expect the miss to go away.

By Tad on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 02:31 pm: Edit

Jeff, I will give a big thumbs up to the Rochester. The rebuild is easy and cheap and even my heavy handed adjustents can't throw it to outta wack.

Check your timing and check the valve clearance... thatis after you've checked everything else the others have said.

Ron - a 7.0:1 head was meant to run on either 75 or 83 octane petrol. Timing on the 75 is TDC and 3^ BTDC on the 83.

Have SOme Fun!
Tad

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 04:04 pm: Edit

Tad!

Good to see ya!

-L

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 04:56 pm: Edit

I think I may have solved some of my Solex woes today. I had it off the truck for about two hours while I put in a new butterfly, played with some gaskets, etc. Then, staring real hard at the actuator for the pump, I realized it has 3 holes/settings on the spring arm. The setting was in the middle and it was open just enough to let the carb dribble even with the throttle closed/static. I moved it to the shortest/3rd hole and now it doesn't dump fuel sitting still. That would definately cause the leaks/overflow/diesel. I'll let it go for a few days and keep checking it.

As for gas, I run 89 octane and have the timing at 6 degrees (the green bible calls for 6 degrees for 90~94 octane). It's an early 7:1 engine. Now, I'm off to get a Petronix to cure the low RPM miss caused by the wobble in the distributor.

I think the Rochester will find a home on the manifold, but if this latest fix gives me some breathing room, I'll let it slide while I pick up other tid bits.

Sorry for the long post. It's been a long afternoon, but I hope I've made some progress.

I appreciate everyones comments.

Jeff

By Ron on Tuesday, September 04, 2001 - 03:16 am: Edit

Ron , does that
thing have just one screw? And if the screw isnt responding you got
issues..

You mean like putting a carb off a big six banger chevy on a little 4 banger rover

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Tuesday, September 04, 2001 - 04:25 am: Edit

LOL , yes , that might do it. Depending on how its cammed..


Kyle

By Ron on Tuesday, September 04, 2001 - 04:32 am: Edit

Depending on how its cammed

It is just a slight variation from completly round lobes.



Ron

Say what you will but it works though. Ole girl really moves