By Rico on Tuesday, September 18, 2001 - 05:11 pm: Edit

I am looking at swapping the frame from my 1964 88 out for the frame of my 1972 series 3. The frame from the 64 has been mostly redone, but it has some rust spots that should have been replaced or fixed.
The frame from the SIII looks to be in really good shape.
Is it possible to use the frame from a SIII for a SII and what is the best way to refinish it.
Should it be sand blasted or smoe other method.


Thanks
Rico

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Tuesday, September 18, 2001 - 05:48 pm: Edit

If you bought a new replacement frame today, it would actually be a SIII frame, but it will work under a SIIa.

But, since you have a good frame in-hand...

Some would advocate that you should have it galvanized. If you have a place to take it to have it hot-dipped, that might not be a bad idea.

If there isn't one handy, though, sandblasting would be a good choice. Then, paint it with a good paint. POR-15 w/ a top-coat of paint is what I would favor, but others would be good, too... maybe rhino-lining, or some-such.

MHO, YMMV....

-L

By Rico on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 02:48 am: Edit

Leslie,
I have a friend that could sandblast it for me but I don't know about the hot dipping galvanized.
I have heard about the por15 and it sounds like a good product.
I just repainted my ARB bumper on the disco with spray on bed liner and it to seems the be really strong.
I'll probably go with one of those options.
Thanks for the info about the frame.

Rico

By Ron on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 03:13 am: Edit

Rico,

Be wary of galvanizing a stock frame (especially SIII) most come out ok but some don't. Have the outside sandblasted then paint (POR 15 and then top coat it works from what I understand). Also coat the INSIDE with waxyoil or similar and get it everywhere. Series frames often rust inside out.

A SIII frame will have two brackets in different places necessitating drilling 4 holes in the tub flange (you will see what I mean when you do it.

Cheers
Ron

PS I would not advise a spray in bedliner on a frame (my 2 cents)

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 03:14 am: Edit

One thing to try to get protected early is the INSIDE of the frame. There are access holes all over the frame designed to be sprayed into. Traditionally, this was Waxoyl (spelling?), but that's not really available here in the States. An alternative is to melt a wax toilet ring in a gallon of chainsaw oil and use a mister to spray the inside. Spray while the mixture is still warm.

As for the outside, I would avoid a bed liner for a number of reasons. There are a lot of little nuts and bolts you'll be taking on and off (suspension, exaust, floor boards, etc.). The thicker liner sprays can make that a PITA sometimes. The liners also seem to peel off in sheets when you scrap on them (from what I've seen of guys using this method) as the undercarriage will off road. Just an opinion. I would personally use POR15 or something similar.

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 03:15 am: Edit

Ron, that's pretty funny. We must have posted pretty much the same thing at the same time...

Jeff

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 03:49 am: Edit

Good points.

I think that Ron's caution about galvanizing a chassis should be followed, but not because of the usualy reason. Some alledge that warping could occur, but I don't know of any that have. The bigger problem, IMO, is that a used chassis isn't going to be perfect, and throwing money into galvanizing something that already has that much age isn't overly wise. I'd suggest for most to put the money towards a new galvanized chassis. But in your case, where you already have a used but decent chassis in hand, I'd avoid galvanizing. If you happen to have ready access to a dipper, and trust their work, and can get it cheap, then maybe, but otherwise, the money is spent better elsewhere.

I've heard of trouble when the thicker stuff is used on frames, but haven't ever seen it on a Rover to know if there would be a problem or not.

Note, you've got 3 votes for POR-15, though....

-L

By Ron on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 04:22 am: Edit

I don't know of any that have

I have

Ron

BTW new galvanized chassis are $1450 in the US

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 04:32 am: Edit

Ouch!

There ya go.... skip the galvanizing of a used frame...

Yep! DG at TRG has a few left in stock (they sell like hotcakes... I've helped him crate up two for shipment over the past couple of weeks.

Never fear, though, if he's out of 'em, he'll have more on the way.

(Rico, I realize that since you already have a frame that it's not an issue for ya, but just for others who need one, they're readily available)

-L

By Rico on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 11:12 am: Edit

Leslie,
Who is DG at TRG and what kind of price does he charge?
I will hopefully start to take apart the doner 88 this weekend.

Thanks for all the input. I think I will go with the por15.

Thanks
Rico

By Ron on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 11:14 am: Edit

DG at TRG

David Gage at thatchedroofgarage.com

Highly recommended.

Ron

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 11:26 am: Edit

some notes on POR15...

a) follow the prep instructions to the letter (you can get them off line and start the process now). if you don't follow the instructions, it will peel...

b) it really does adhear. especially to skin. unless you like the idea of wearing paint until your skin wears off, wear gloves, long sleeves, etc.

c) when you re-seal the can (assuming you have any left), use petroleum jelly on the edges or you'll never get the lid open again.

I think it's great stuff. You just can't treat it like normal paint. IMHO. YMMV.

By Rico on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 03:37 pm: Edit

Jeff,
Thanks that good to know. It's always nice to have it right the first time.

Ron,
I have heard about TRG, it just didn't click when I read it.

Thanks
Rico

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Thursday, September 20, 2001 - 02:29 am: Edit

Doh!

Didn't take the laptop home, wasn't online last night. Ron's got it pegged... DG will take care of ya...

-L

By Rico on Saturday, September 29, 2001 - 04:20 pm: Edit

Frame update.
A friend came over yesterday and gave me some guidence on the restoration project. He has had several Series Rover and has alot of expierience with fixing and restoring them.
He informed me that the frame thats on it looks good and that i should just replace the cross member that the transmission sits on and a couple of other minor repairs. Besides that, it looks good.
I will be rebuilding the diffs and axles from parts off the doner 88 this weekend.
Next weekend he will be coming over to help me do the brakes and all the brakelines.
I will let you know how it goes.


Thanks
Rico

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Saturday, September 29, 2001 - 04:42 pm: Edit

Good luck. It's nice have some experience peeking over your shoulder when you're tearing things apart.

Jeff

By Ron on Monday, October 01, 2001 - 03:19 am: Edit

It much nicer to have when you are putting them back together.



Ron

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Monday, October 01, 2001 - 03:33 am: Edit

yes, that too...

By Tom P. on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 10:43 am: Edit

Here is another option:

http://www.seriesrover.com/series_tech/repair/frame.html

Tom P.

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 11:44 am: Edit

Isn't that what we essentially said?

1) Clean it (ie., I said sandblast, but the goal was the same);
2) then paint it w/ a special rust-handling paint (Loctite there, we said POR-15 instead);
3) and then a top-coat of paint.....


Yep. Pretty much the same....



-L