By Moose on Friday, November 23, 2001 - 05:39 pm: Edit

Just got home for Thanksgiving break and I found that my RF caliper is gouging out the rotor on one side(outer). The LF caliper is showing uneven pad wear(inner pad has more wear). The RF rotor isn't bad, I caught it just as the problem appeared; it should just need to be turned down. As for the calipers do they need the be realigned, cleaned/lubed and mounted with new pads or is this a sign that it is time for new calipers or a rebuild?. Is it a better approach to rebuild the old calipers or to buy new ones? Should I be concerned about the rear calipers also?

Currently I am just outside Princeton, NJ until Nov. 30. There is a LR dealer I'd rather not go to get my brakes fixed. My local mechanic that does the work on all of my father's vans has done brake work, previously, on my 89 Range Rover, but works mainly on domestic and japanese vehicles. Is this a job for him or someone with more experience with Land Rovers?

I know an ex-LR mechanic, with 10 years at LR, that does work independently on LR's in the Rochester area. Very reasonable, $45/hour. Anyone interested in getting in contact with him, drop me an email.

Also, word to the wise. Bought Bridgestone Dueler A/T 235/70/R16 (I do lots of highway traveling in NY) about a year ago and they are showing signs of ozone cracking. They are exactly one year old so I went back to the tire place and they informed me that I most likely would get 4 replacements for free (will find out on Monday). They also stated I might be able to up the size to 245/75 and pay the difference. So, those of you with relatively new Bridgestones/Firestones that are cracking where the tread meets the sidewall, get your tires checked to see if you can snag new ones under warranty.

I got an OME MD lift with OME shocks (getting HD fronts soon cause I got the ARB bar up front). These tires should fit well (w/ minor trimming). I do a good deal of off-roading, but I also travel all over NY (Rochester, Buffalo, Syracuse, Albany, NYC, etc...). Would the 245/75 be the way to go or should I consider the 235/85? I've already been convinced that the 235/85 is a better tire size for off-road, but with the type of traveling I am doing which one would you guys recommend?

With 235/85's, I think I won't have enough power to race rusted Honda Civics w/ coffee can exhaust through the ghettos of Rochester ;)

126k miles on 95 Disco.
-OME MD and shocks
-ARB bar
-steering skid plate

-Mike (mmm0404@rit.edu)

There are going to be several more posts by me as I hope you guys can help me get my Rover back in working order before I have to go back to school. I appreciate any help.

By doug95lwb on Saturday, November 24, 2001 - 07:00 pm: Edit

Your rotors should be replaced. They are made to go a fixed distance, and will be 'beyond spec' with the slightest attempt to true/turn. Many
brake shops will simply not turn them as they will mic them and report they will not be legal; avoids liability issue for them... Get new. New pads also. Flush ABS system. Procedure @
www.spanishtrailrovers.com. It is very detailed
and rover specific. Take the directions !

Any D-I-Y can replace rotors, easy for your mech, regardless of his 'orientation'.

By Ron on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 09:38 am: Edit

Rebuild your calipers. Where you are from I am betting the pistons are pitted so you will need to buy them as well. Zeus makes stainless steel replacements. I would not replace the rotor unless it is bad but I would throw in a new set of pads.

Ron

Go Bills!

By Moose on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 10:54 am: Edit

Thanks Ron. Once again, your the man. Is rebuilding better than buying new calipers. I know someone before posted a msg about front AP calipers for near 200 brand new. Can anyone confirm this?

Can my 'American' mechanic rebuild my calipers? (he starts to shiver everytime he sees my LR pull in)

-Mike

By Ron on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 10:59 am: Edit

Mike,

YOU can rebuild calipers. It is absurdly easy and the rebuild kits come with instructions. The only challenge is getting them off the truck if the bolts are siezed.

People run from rovers but they are 90% of the time easier to work on than your average chevy.

Its a cost issue. A rebuild kit is like $15 and you need 3 to do all four calipers. Pistons up that cost to about 200 for all four plus the seal kits. Not sure who carries zues but I would call around and ask or go direct from the UK. The only reason to get new would be if the ones you ahve now are corroded inside the bores.

Ron

PS

By Moose on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 11:04 am: Edit

Sweet! You've prevented me from making a big mistake had some fool told me to get new calipers.

-Mike

By joey lafever on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 02:40 pm: Edit

everyone I have talked to about rebuilding has told me that it is not worth it as they only hold for a short while.. then you end up doing it again or then buying the new calipers.. I am in the same
boat right now and I think I am buying the calipers, getting my rotors turned and putting the new pads in to make it feel like new again..You guys who have rebuilt yours how long have they lasted?? I don't have any first hand experience and would love to know if some of you have gotten some real miles out of your rebuilt calipers?? Thanks

By Ron on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 02:48 pm: Edit

Mine are rebuilt but have like no miles on them (sitting on the front of the 110 in pieces) so I can't say long term personally as far as LR calipers. There is no reason you should have a problem provided that you do not have pitting in the bores or pistons.

Ron

PS if you are going to trash them can I have your old calipers?

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 03:27 pm: Edit

My left front pads wear unevenly (inside pad vs. outer pad) and I believe that LF caliper is leaking a little bit (or it was at one point). Brakes in general feel pretty "soft" and substandard. I'm thinking about going the rebuild route & new pads all around.

RON >"Its a cost issue. A rebuild kit is like $15 and you need 3 to do all four calipers. Pistons up that cost to about 200 for all four plus the seal kits. Not sure who carries zues but I would call around and ask or go direct from the UK. The only reason to get new would be if the ones you ahve now are corroded inside the bores."

Can you explain this for me - you need 3 rebuild kits to do all four caps? What exactly is in the rebuild kit? Seals included? And I'm just looking for simple surface corrosion on the pistons? (not really anticipating a corrosion prob here in AZ)

Thanks.

By Ron on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 03:34 pm: Edit

You need three rebuild kits to do all four calipers. One kit per each front and one kit does two rear calipers. (fronts are 4 piston, rears are two piston)

All they are is the seals. You get a bunch of circular rubber pieces, expensive for what it is but better than $350 per caliper.

The full rebuild kit in the seals and pistons which being from AZ I doubt you need. Zeus makes Stainless Steel pistons which you can buy seperately. They would be my choice rather than genuine (lockheed) if you need them.

If the inner bore is pitted you are SOL but otherwise no reason a rebuild would not be as good as new.

Ron

By Bluegill (Bluegill) on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 03:52 pm: Edit

ahhhhh...basic math. Thank you.

By gp (Garrett) on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 03:53 pm: Edit

i just changed out new pads in my '96 with 65K. it has spent it whole life in the NE and no signs of corrosion on the pistons and bores. still looking like a nice Steely Dan!!! i have heard so many times that you have to change the rotors with the pads. well of course i skipped that day in school and did not do it. my right front rotor is in bad shape with the inside looking pretty nasty. (someone ran the pad to metal at one point) so for $55 i can get a new one at my parts store.
like blue said the brakes tend to feel a little mushy, but still stop me quite well.
i think i will wait another year or so to do the rebuild. it all works good right now and don't need to mess anything up right before ski season.

By D Cantrell (Discodad) on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 06:13 pm: Edit

I agree with Ron,
I have been successful with caliper rebuilds. But I have learned the hard way,
1. Mark the piston and orientation in the bore, Replace pistion if wear or pitting is present. A Dial Micrometer is nice to have for this.
2. If slightest hint of corrosion in bore hone it, this requires splitting of the caliper, now were into advanced brake overhaul. Clean all parts with a good quality brake cleaner. and blow all ports out. KEEP IT CLEAN!
3. Replace all pins and clips, use silicone brake grease on the back of the pads and on the edges of the pads.
4. If the seals were dry rotted the hoses are most likely shot and could give you a soft pedal.
5. Replace the hub inner and outer seals if the slightest bit of lube is present.
6. Rotors clean if no gouges leave alone but check for runout with a dial indicator, I am not sure of the spec. +- .010?. If out this will trash your pads and give you a pulse in the pedal.

Bottom line brakes are the last place you want to cheep out in a LR. The basic system is under desigined for US driving conditions. Not many 9k foot passes in the UK. A F**d ranger PU has heavier front brakes than a Disco.

By Moose on Tuesday, November 27, 2001 - 07:58 pm: Edit

I'm still waiting for my mechanic to get back to me. The disco has been in New Jersey its whole life so I'm not about to rule out corroded pistons and bore.

Anyone know better places to get replacement AP calipers other than AB, RN or BP? Maybe Nathan can help...?

-Mike

By Frode Hübertz Haaland (Discofrode) on Tuesday, November 27, 2001 - 11:08 pm: Edit

As already said: Check in on Ottos pages for description on rebuilding calipers. Dead easy.

http://home.halden.net/discovery

Adding to points made:
1) Check carefully for corrosion inside the bores, this is what usually makes you do it once again... Need for splitting caliper/honing bore adds a couple of tiny rubber O-rings to your shopping list. Honing no problem either, just make sure you know how to do it.
2) Job is by far the most costly of the operation, so my best advice would be to renew pistons whether they look near-perfect or really bad. Guess they set you back $2 each, so cost is no issue.
3) Stainless pistons: Beside Zeus, also Kitek (UK) manufactures and sells stainless steel pistons. Check last section of LROI or LRE or LRW for contact details. Cost much, but they should be the last ones you buy ever!

Frode