By Moose on Friday, November 23, 2001 - 06:55 pm: Edit

126k miles on 95 disco

I've been kicking myself in the ass about switching to synthetic oils all around the car (engine, T-Case, tranny). I just went out and bought a case of 15W-50 Mobil 1 for the engine. Is this a good idea or should I return to Pep Boys and get Dino oil? I was thinking of a synthetic blend to help clean out the sludge and sh*t inside the engine. I always change my oil 3000-4000 miles regardless of whether it is synthetic or conventional. Thoughts and comments? What kind of synthetics is everyone using and what weight? Anyone running AMSoil, if so what weight?

My engine runs smooth as long as it is not idling. When idling, it is like I have massaging seats (not that bad, but it is rough). It idles just above 500rpm when stopped and the tranny is in (D)rive. Should IAC motor/stepper motor cleaning or straight-up replacement help me out here, or is a valve job/porting the only true way to cure it.

What about changing to synthetics in the tranny, T-case, diffs, swival balls? Tranny doesn't leak bad but the T-case appears to be as well lubricated on the exterior as it is on the interior. Diffs don't leak a bit and the swival balls upfront are brand new. I get the infamous clunk with the when going from park to reverse or drive to reverse. What are your thoughts on changing to synthetics in these areas. I've heard some bad things about mobil 1 ATF and Land Rovers. Should I be considering this with 126k miles already logged on the vehicle. Comments, thoughts, experiences? What brands/weights have proven to be the best? Anyone running AMSoil synthetics?

I'm getting driveline vibes I think are associated with the OME lift (had similar issues when I had the lift on my 89 Range Rover.) I got new U-joints and a rotoflex coupling. Should I get new nuts to attatch both driveshafts to the transfer case (I've heard they shear pretty easily)? Can I get replacements from anywhere that sells metric nyloc nuts or should I get LR 'brand' nuts? Anyone have size and thread pattern of these nuts?

Should oil seals on the T-case, where both driveshafts connect into the box, be of concern to me (considering the amount of oil on the outside of the T-case)? Are the seals a costly, PIA job? Would the vibes (that I think are caused by the OME MD lift) exacerbated this problem? Would it be easier to do the seals and the U-joints at the same time or can I do the U-joints now and the seals later on without too much hassle.

Exhaust....definately need new exhaust. I am just going to get my mechanic to custom make me one instead of going for the OEM, Borla, etc. I am also considering the Summit Racing cat conversion (my cats smell foul). Anyone here done it and have pictures? Do the cats have to be welded to the exhaust manifold or do they bolt up? Basically, I want to know the extent and location of the welding so I can pass this info to my mechanic. Would I be able to put on a Borla or NRP exhaust with the Summit Racing cat setup? Part numbers for the cats would be great if someone has them. Are there designated Right and Left cats. Do the stock O2 sensors screw right in? Any problems experienced with this set up?

Also, I hear water (probably coolant) ciruclating around behind my radio near the passenger side when I start my vehicle. It gets more apparent as I apply throttle. Is it time for a new heater core? I don't smell coolant yet, but I don't want find out by having coolant pour over my legs while doing 80 down the NY Throughway.

I am also starting to notice more corrosion than usual. What should I use to lube the hinges for the rear door (don't say WD-40)?

Magnecore Wires....Are they worth it?

I would be doing much more of this work myself but I have no garage, no access to a garage and my driveway is on a slant (lost a few sockets because of it). Once I get back to Rochester NY I will have a garage to do some work. I want to do the valve cover gaskets because they are shot. I already have the gaskets (newly designed ones from AB) but I think I still need some more items such as a pleneum chamber gasket and....help me out here, I can't think of what else I need. Should I be doing this myself or should I pay someone to have it done?

Steering feels a little loose and it wanders a little bit. Probably just the damper but I want to make sure its not a symptom of a worse problem. Thoughts, comments, experiences?

Did I ask enough questions? ;)

-Mike (mmm0404@rit.edu)
Sorry, this was a long one.

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Friday, November 23, 2001 - 10:38 pm: Edit

Mike,

I'll pitch mi dos centavos at a few items asked....

In the engine, dino or synthetic oil is fine; if you're that religious about changing the oil, I'd stick w/ dino oil cause of the price... if you let it slip a bit between how often you change your oil, then go w/ the synthetic. Yes, it's fine to use synthetic and change often, just pricy.

I've heard bad stuff about synthetic oil and auto trannies... there, stick w/ regular ATF, IMO.

Jeff (a local Disco owner here) just had a new exhaust put on (after the Y, leaving the factory cats in place). New muffler, left out the resonator, used a larger diameter pipe... you can really tell that the Rover has a V8 in it now.

Sounds like you may have air trapped in your heater core. Someplace I've seen directions for how to bleed out your system... I'd give that a try before you chase after the core itself, but... it wouldn't surprise me if it does end up as a heater core replacement.

WD-40: Water Displacement, 40th formula. Made for using in distributor caps. Not bad for other uses, but not the best. I like PB-blaster better for braking things loose, 3-in-one oil for most lubrication jobs; for a hinge, though, I'd use a bit of grease... maybe a bit of white lithium grease if you've got it on hand, or graphite-impregnated grease if it's lying around, or use whatever you do have. Don't go overkill to the point that you'll sling grease everywhere when you open and close the door, just a little should do.

Peter M and I had a go-round over this a bit back. In short, Magnacor wires are an exact fit, cost less than factory replacements, and offer lower resistance than original wires. Other wire makers, such as MSD, Accel, make wires that offer even lower resistance, but you have to cut them to fit a Rover, they cost more, and the Rover V8 in stock form won't benefit from even lower resistance than the Magnecors offer. And, Magnecor offers both direct sales, and a discount for Rover owners. Yes, I've got Magnecors on my Rover, and I'd buy them again. No, they're not magic, but they are good. Actually, their boots seal well enough that they can be a bit ornery to install, but that offers better water resistance.


There's some answers for ya, we'll let some others pitch in their opinions, too....

-L

By Ron on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 10:00 am: Edit

I just went out and bought a case of 15W-50 Mobil 1 for the engine. Is this a good idea

Yes


Should IAC motor/stepper motor cleaning or straight-up replacement help me out here, or is a valve job/porting the only true way to cure it.

Clean it and then see. Easy DIY

What about changing to synthetics in the tranny, T-case, diffs, swival balls? Tranny doesn't leak bad but the T-case appears to be as well lubricated on the exterior as it is on the interior.

Fix the T case seals. the normal ATF in tranny. You can go synthetics everywhere else and it will help a bit.

I'm getting driveline vibes I think are associated with the OME lift
(had similar issues when I had the lift on my 89 Range Rover.) I got
new U-joints and a rotoflex coupling. Should I get new nuts to
attatch both driveshafts to the transfer case (I've heard they
shear pretty easily)? Can I get replacements from anywhere that
sells metric nyloc nuts or should I get LR 'brand' nuts? Anyone have
size and thread pattern of these nuts?

Never heard of these failing but whenever you take off a nyloc you should put on a brand new one to be safe (or red loctite the crap out of it)

Should oil seals on the T-case, where both driveshafts connect into Are the seals a costly, PIA job?

Yes and no. And the bearings are usually shot too. Can do U joints seperately

Exhaust....definately need new exhaust. I am just going to get my
mechanic to custom make me one instead of going for the OEM,
Borla, etc. I am also considering the Summit Racing cat conversion
(my cats smell foul). Anyone here done it and have pictures? Do
the cats have to be welded to the exhaust manifold or do they bolt
up? Basically, I want to know the extent and location of the
welding so I can pass this info to my mechanic. Would I be able to
put on a Borla or NRP exhaust with the Summit Racing cat setup?
Part numbers for the cats would be great if someone has them. Are
there designated Right and Left cats. Do the stock O2 sensors
screw right in? Any problems experienced with this set up?

Also, I hear water (probably coolant) ciruclating around behind my
radio near the passenger side when I start my vehicle. It gets more
apparent as I apply throttle. Is it time for a new heater core? I
don't smell coolant yet, but I don't want find out by having coolant
pour over my legs while doing 80 down the NY Throughway.

I am also starting to notice more corrosion than usual. What should
I use to lube the hinges for the rear door (don't say WD-40)?

Magnecore Wires....Are they worth it?


YES!

Steering feels a little loose and it wanders a little bit. Probably just
the damper but I want to make sure its not a symptom of a worse
problem. Thoughts, comments, experiences?

Shot bushings, worn steering box, worn tie rod ends . . . have to check them all. Loose swivel ball preload

Did I ask enough questions? ;)

By Moose on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 10:49 am: Edit

Thanks all. You've been very helpful! Anymore info is much appreciated.

-Mike

By Steve (Steve2) on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 12:34 pm: Edit

moose-

when i first got my disco - i used mobil one. a nice change from dino oil. then i used castrol syntec and the car can nicer than before.

also the oil looks cleaner longer (now 3rd oil change) - i change every 5k mi unless heavy off road.

leslie is correct on the std stuff for the gear box.

chewbaka and sasquach making friends

By Mike B. on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 09:32 pm: Edit

Your stumble at idle could also be caused by bad O2 sensors. Nathan Crabtree (boatbuggy@aol.com) has the best prices.

Thanks,
Mike B.