I got da vibes!!!!!

DiscoWeb Message Board: Technical Discussions - Discovery: I got da vibes!!!!!
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Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By JCC on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 12:41 pm: Edit

Installed 3 inch RTE springs. The Vibes arent bad enough to do anything about as long as it wont hurt anything. Will the vibes destroy my DISCO? They only happen when decelerating from 40 to 30 mph!

Justin

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 12:54 pm: Edit

I could see it eating up some u-joints in the future if they are really bad vibes and left that way over a long period of time. Don't know if it would mess up the transfer case or not but, all that shaking around can't be good for it.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By RVR OVR (Tom) on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 01:27 pm: Edit

True it will eat up U-joints. Worse case is that it breaks when you are on the highway and it the whipping drive shaft takes part of something else with it.

Do you have radius arms or trailing links or CV shafts?

Tom

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Discosaurus (Discosaurus) on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 04:19 pm: Edit

It'll break in the long run, so, if you want it reliable, you better do something.

When it breaks it's not pretty - there'll be a hole in the TC and you won't be going anywhere unless you're a trailside fix-it wizard.

Y'all have to understand the deeper implications of some of those mods...can't just throw on stuff and hope - at least if you put miles on it.

...sorry.

keith
discosaurus

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Moe on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 05:37 pm: Edit

The answer is to spend more
A front CV shaft and new rear links should do it.

Did the lift end up being more than 3"?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 05:42 pm: Edit

Well even throwing more money at it might not get rid of them all together.. I have RTE 3 inch, trailing arms, radius arms, front and rear DC shafts and I still am trying to get rid of vibes. I got it right now to where they aren't bad but, I can still notice them. I think that I'm just screwed.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 05:46 pm: Edit

Eric,

With DC shafts front and rear you should have the dif almost pointed at the t-case. In the back you can achieve this by taking out all the shims on the rear links or spacing the rear a frame.

In the front it is more of an issue. To be honest you would probably have been better off w/o the castor corrected arms, but for the steering issues.

What do your angles look like now?

Are you sure it is driveline related (pull drive shafts one at a time and drive in 2wd)

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By doug95lwb on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 05:49 pm: Edit

True story: Broken u-joint while sports car going 75+- mph, propshaft spikes the pavement,impelling itself mightily, causing the rear of the rapidly decelerating sc to elevate in an eyeblink , doing a nose-stand, followed by a forward, violent faceplant and disater-driver ok. SC beyond recognition. Moral: don't screw around w/ failing uj.
Cheers- dgj95 lwb

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Moe on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 05:56 pm: Edit

Eric, you are right more $ is not always the answer, but JCC will have to open his wallet on this one.

Ron is correctly stating the convential wisdom that CV shafts and corrected arms/links don't always work in tandem with each other. You might want to try pulling that rear CV and throwing the stock shaft back on. Then go ahead and send the CV shaft my way

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 06:15 pm: Edit

I have the rear pinion almost in a straight line with the shaft pointing towards the T Case. The front though has the pinion pointing down wards a little so that the shaft and pinion aren't in a straight line.. I think that if I put weight up there is would lower the T Case and make less of an angle but, I'm also wondering if I put more lift up there would it rotate the pinion upwards again making a straight line also? Like another inch or inch and a half. Any thoughts?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By JCC on Monday, November 26, 2001 - 07:54 pm: Edit

thanx fot the input! Ill work on a solution and let you know how it goes!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Tuesday, November 27, 2001 - 10:42 am: Edit

Eric pull the front shaft out and see if it fixes it.

How long are your RTE radius arms? What lift? How much castor correction?

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Tuesday, November 27, 2001 - 12:38 pm: Edit

Ron, don't know, 3 plus inches, don't know. Going to add more lift this weekend so that it fixes the front shaft to pinion angle so that the pinion and shaft form a straight line. If that still doesn't work then I'll pull shafts as then I will be looking for the one that wasn't built/balanced correctly. If that doesn't work then I will have all my tires re-balanced. If that doesn't work then well who the hell knows..

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By doug95lwb on Wednesday, November 28, 2001 - 04:17 pm: Edit

There is a little known tire truing procedure that should be done before tires are balanced. It is to have them 'skimmed'; the tire is rotating on a fixture, spinning about40-60 rpm, and a razor-sharp cutter blade, narrow:1/8-1/4 across is poised at the surface and cuts the tread to true it. Sort of like having the rotors turned, which we do not do on LR products.
Anyway, this procedure cures tire manufacturing irregularities. Has worked for me on several vehicles. The restoration/racing community often uses these guys service; not easily found. Cheers


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