Unless these are quite thick they will loosen. Use stock nuts. I put a MAPP gas torch on them until cherry red to remove without issues.
manifold to y-pipe stup options
- Thread starter disco_drum
- Start date
Unless these are quite thick they will loosen. Use stock nuts. I put a MAPP gas torch on them until cherry red to remove without issues.
I have used those allen head bolts from the "specialty hardware" section at home depot for years with GREAT results! They are black in color. I don't know the technical name for them.
I've been thinking of using cap screws. How long do they need to be? There are three I need to replace of course not on the same manifold. The old studs broke off with some meat outside the manifold. I have some stud pullers but I don't know if there will be enough for the pullers to bite.
I have removed the studs MANY times without the need for a torch. I guess I consider myself lucky!
Using what method? In my experience they just snap off at the base if you don't use heat.
I use the allen head bolts (not studs) I referenced earlier and I remove them with an impact driver. Works like a champ!
They look like this. https://images.homedepot-static.com...2c855f574a7e/svn/crown-bolt-45098-64_1000.jpg
They look like this. https://images.homedepot-static.com...2c855f574a7e/svn/crown-bolt-45098-64_1000.jpg
A better way to phrase it would be to never attempt removal without a torch nearby.
You don't want to break one and then be sitting there with your thumb in your ass wondering what to do at 2AM on Sunday. I've been there before on other Rovers, and it always happens when there's nothing you can do about it.
Cheers,
Kennith
The problem with trying to remove a broken stud without heat is that it will usually break again but flush with the manifold. Once that happens, you have to drill it out.
If I break a stud, my default is to cut it flush with an angle grinder and just drill it out. It hardly pays to fuck around doing anything else.