Disco 1 price curve

AbnMike said:

Since it has the sticker for the Hi-Lo you probably could get a premium out of it. Even mine was missing that.

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Mine too.

I talked to the seller. He is the second owner since 2001. He almost never drives it on the highway so has not been subjected to the mag chloride. The exaust leak is at the y-pipe so that can be fixted and the PS box works, it just leaks a lot.

Based on what yours sold for and that red one, it seems like a 2" lift and at lease one bolt of off road goodie like a bumper or rack would really increase the value.

mjbrox said:

Mine too.

I talked to the seller. He is the second owner since 2001. He almost never drives it on the highway so has not been subjected to the mag chloride. The exaust leak is at the y-pipe so that can be fixted and the PS box works, it just leaks a lot.

Based on what yours sold for and that red one, it seems like a 2" lift and at lease one bolt of off road goodie like a bumper or rack would really increase the value.

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Maybe, maybe not.

I got a LOT of private messages on my sale that didn't show up in the comment thread:

recurring theme? I proved mine worked and I proved that I cared about it. Even the Red Valve Covers people joke about? To a real buyer it shows I cared. I cared enough when pulling them to replace the gaskets I didn't just throw dirty shit back on the motor. I even cleaned the insides out. And yeah red. Because I wanted to.

I also was absolutely completely honest it had some surface rust in the rear - and showed it being treated, too. A buyer asked for under carpet shots so I went out, pulled up all the carpets and photographed that ooops, some surface rust. And then treated it. And proved I treated it and reassembled.

And completely showing the running Live Data streams from the OBDII scanner. Someone even remarked on the thread they've never seen that from any vehicle for sale on BAT ever --- that helped my auction a lot.

Are well sorted and cared for Discoveries moving upwards in the price range? Hope so for anyone who owns one and puts care and attention into keeping it going.

The G4 seller isn't even in the thread on his vehicle for sale. I was there from the first 5 minutes and answered every single comment made. I also was able to prove exhaustive maintenance on mine.

That's what sold mine for a premium, not any doo dads, though they do help get attention.

AbnMike said:

Maybe, maybe not.

I got a LOT of private messages on my sale that didn't show up in the comment thread:

recurring theme? I proved mine worked and I proved that I cared about it. Even the Red Valve Covers people joke about? To a real buyer it shows I cared. I cared enough when pulling them to replace the gaskets I didn't just throw dirty shit back on the motor. I even cleaned the insides out. And yeah red. Because I wanted to.

I also was absolutely completely honest it had some surface rust in the rear - and showed it being treated, too. A buyer asked for under carpet shots so I went out, pulled up all the carpets and photographed that ooops, some surface rust. And then treated it. And proved I treated it and reassembled.

And completely showing the running Live Data streams from the OBDII scanner. Someone even remarked on the thread they've never seen that from any vehicle for sale on BAT ever --- that helped my auction a lot.

Are well sorted and cared for Discoveries moving upwards in the price range? Hope so for anyone who owns one and puts care and attention into keeping it going.

The G4 seller isn't even in the thread on his vehicle for sale. I was there from the first 5 minutes and answered every single comment made. I also was able to prove exhaustive maintenance on mine.

That's what sold mine for a premium, not any doo dads, though they do help get attention.

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Great feedback. Thank you

AbnMike said:

I?d like to see anyone else with 0.0 LTFT numbers, and every other OBDII live status in spec on a no rust Discovery with no codes and everything working.

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How many miles did you drive after resetting the adaptions? I thought you said you didn't drive the truck in general.

jymmiejamz said:

How many miles did you drive after resetting the adaptions? I thought you said you didn't drive the truck in general.

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readiness flags might tell the story. If it never warms up or the o2's are at deaths door and the cat monitors are never set I believe it flat out ignores the o2 inputs. Maybe you've seen it in person, I'm just theorizing.


Its a good looking truck headlights aside, but you shouldn't have 0.0 LTFT unless you are in an ethanol free zone with low humidity, perfect weather, with a perfectly healthy engine, and a whole lot of luck.

jymmiejamz said:

How many miles did you drive after resetting the adaptions? I thought you said you didn't drive the truck in general.

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I?ve been driving it weekly the past few weeks but not every day. It?s had LTFT numbers below 1.8 since last summer - probably 1000 miles since they started dropping.

I also never reset the adaptive values. I never got that program to work last year. These all came down on their own’after tinkering and doing my injectors and whatnot.

Looking back, I got 0.8% LTFT on a 90 degree day in August of last year:

https://discoweb.org/showpost.php?p=1061440&postcount=76

discostew said:

Long term fuel adaptions need to be near zero. But it's not about being at zero all the time. It's about being able to make adjustments to whatever is going on right now,going up a hill, pulling a jeep out of a puddle, or pulling a trailer down the interstate. I had a really good instructor tell me that he liked his fuel trim to be adding a little fuel(so positive #'s) because that meant to him that his vehicle was running cleaner and getting better fuel economy.

I personally would like to see it moving back and forth thru zero. Taking a screen shot of a # that should be moving is really not useful info.

But that being said, you had a very nice truck and I'm glad you got that kind of money for it. It's good for all of us.

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The STFTs definitely fluctuate between positive and negative numbers when it's running, compensating for load, driving conditions, etc. And in Open Loop (pedal to the floor), STFT stop calculating and return to 0 per specification. My understanding is that positive and negative fluctuation of the STFT numbers should occur in a manner that keeps the LTFT numbers at the perfect mix rate of 14.7:1 or 0.0%

STFTs on both banks add up over time to the more static LTFT numbers on both banks. LTFT shouldn't fluctuate that much but when they do should still end up around 0 plus or minus a little bit. A higher LTFT shows that the system has been adding fuel over time to compensate for lean, and lower (negative) LTFT shows the system has been metering less fuel due to a rich condition.

At one point when I first started messing with this thing my LTFT numbers were obscenely high - 20% or so. I was told that was an air leak and compensation. Didn't find air leaks and discovered it could be something in the fuel system, so replaced the canister, pump, pressure regulator, filter and injectors (all of that stuff was 20+ years old anyway). Brought numbers down to acceptable level back in August.

I was getting a random cyl misfire code with no rhyme nor reason as to when it would show up, so replaced the original coil pack with a gently used one from Will. That, and new plugs that I added in prep for sale, appears to have ditched that code for good. Since I had the wires off and on off an on off an on for 2 years while I did all this stuff I have a new set of wires I ordered for the new owner in case any misfire code pops up.

The only thing it could possibly be at this point if it pops back could be a leaking exhaust gasket, so I sent a new set of those with the new owner since I didn't get to replacing them. (a leaking gasket could be sucking air before the 02 sensor causing it to think it's lean at the cylinder and dump fuel which could trigger a misfire code).

But in a number of drive cycles since the coil pack the misfire hasn't popped back up anyway.

I think we're agreeing, LTFT numbers don't calculate or change constantly - maybe every 20 seconds or so? STFT numbers fluctuate constantly, less than every second.

And I agree. I'm glad mine was recognized by more than one bidder to be worth good positive numbers - mine, combined with the well done 97 that sold for $11k, and the G4 on BAT now which will hit 20-25K (already at above 15k with days left to go), plus the 22k TreK should bring Disco prices up overall. I mean mine sold more than the RRC, which surprised me.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1994-land-rover-range-rover-county-lwb-2/


http://www.autoserviceprofessional....-works-and-how-to-make-it-work-for-you?Page=1

discostew said:

I see all the #'s move. It's a slower shift on the long term. You can learn a lot about how both of them act by creating a vac. leak on purpose and watch what happens. Short term goes up first and then if it gets too far the long term will move a couple %. That causes short term to be able to get a little closer to zero. If everyone is happy it stays that way. But if the ECM cant compensate for what ever is going on it will keep bumping the long term trim and waiting for short term to get closer to zero. If it can never find something it's o2 sensors feel like is 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio the long term trim will climg past 20% and throw the light.

Back in the 80's and 90's they used #'s they called Block Learn and Integrator. Block learn was your long term trim and integrator was your short term trim. The system works the same and the old way was easier to understand because it was layed out on a block grid. Low load at idle at the bottom left and wide open throttle heavy load at the top right.

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Good info. My LTFT never climbed high enough to throw the light, but I knew having them consistently at 15-18% meant something wasn't quite right.

Now I feel that it is.

AbnMike said:

...and the G4 on BAT now which will hit 20-25K (already at above 15k with days left to go)

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This is the $20k G4:

I know that G4 well, it's super nice and worth some $$. The front winch/bumper setup alone is one of the best I've seen on a D2

Odd to sell such a well put together G4 and not replace those badly fading graphics on the doors

hks3sgte said:

This is the $20k G4:

<img src="https://13252-presscdn-0-94-pagely.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/5aa701781d514_1520845323a21dff366f5fDSCF4439-1.jpg" height=584 width=826 />​

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The rear light bar, Trasharoo, and Safety Devices knock-off rack tell me everything I need to know about that truck. I wonder if it comes with an Overland Bound membership.

jymmiejamz said:

... Safety Devices knock-off rack ...

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What are the visual cues that you're looking at that allow you to deduce from the photo that the rack is not genuine SD? I am not familiar enough with the nuances of the original to identify an imitator.

The brackets are different

jymmiejamz said:

The rear light bar, Trasharoo, and Safety Devices knock-off rack tell me everything I need to know about that truck. I wonder if it comes with an Overland Bound membership.

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Ive placed many empty beer cans in that trasharoo miles from nowhere by the glow of that light. Its a legit setup

stu454 said:

The brackets are different

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Hmm, the ad states it is a SD rack. Wonder if the owner is aware?

"Bill Burke edition" winch! lol Looks like a nice winch, but the grill is too cluttered for my liking.