1997 Discovery SD ~ super low miles

Lake_Bueller

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2004
2,105
59
56
Beloit, WI
Sold locally pending payment

Let the bullshit and whatnot begin...

It's rusty but trusty.

Only 76k miles.

List of off-road goodies include:
ARB snorkel
33" Mickey Thompson mud tires on 15" steel rims
Safarigard front bumper
TJM rear bumper
RTE sliders
OME heavy duty lift kit
Rovertym style rear links
Ashcroft HD axle shafts and CV joints (front and rear)
2" lower rear shock mounts
2" lower front shock mounts
1" aluminium spring spacers
Bolt on front differential cover
Welded on rear differential cover
HD drag link assembly
Rear spring disconnect cones
Gas tank skid plate

It's throwing codes for O2 sensors. And there is a ground fault somewhere that will cause the battery to drain in 2-3 days. I installed a battery cut-off switch at the ground terminal. That was 3 years ago. And I haven't had any battery issues since. It was a daily driver all last winter without any issues.

$2100 obo

Located in Green Bay, WI
 
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AbnMike

Well-known member
Apr 6, 2016
1,218
117
Western Slope, CO
The third picture in the first set - the savage rust one -- how can one prevent that from happening? Is there any way to get up inside that area and put in rust prevention spray or anything of the like?

Or is it just a matter of time and there's nothing that can be done except preserve it indoors forever?
 

Lake_Bueller

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2004
2,105
59
56
Beloit, WI
The third picture in the first set - the savage rust one -- how can one prevent that from happening? Is there any way to get up inside that area and put in rust prevention spray or anything of the like?

Or is it just a matter of time and there's nothing that can be done except preserve it indoors forever?

I'm guessing maybe some bedliner or similar spray on the underside might help. It was roached when I bought the truck 9 years ago.
 

bsa_m21

Well-known member
Sep 27, 2016
70
1
Vancouver Canada
There are two issues contributing to the rust

1. There is a hollow from the roof that goes down the pillar behind the rear side doors. At the bottom they welded in a metal ledge that was supposed to keep out crud, but left a gap so it would drain (from the rear sunroof if equipped, I believe).

2. The underside rear wheel arch, plastic body protector is a joke. Where it mounts at the front, there is a gap along the inside wall of the body that allows crud to enter and the arch rusts out. As you drive, the wheel throws crud all around. Over time wet crud fills up this ledge, hence the rusting.

I pulled off the plastic protector, cleaned the whole area with a spot blaster and welded in replacement metal. (Don't forget to lift the carpet before welding like I forgot to (I had an interesting few moments :mad:). I also added a few sections of sheet metal to extend the ledge and create an "overlapping gap" facing forward, to prevent the space from filling with crud again after I remounted the arch protector, but still allow water to drain if needed. Only way for crud to get in is if I'm stuck in mud and spinning tires in reverse (throws mud in the reverse direction).

I then used POR15 all over both sides of the repair, touched up the paint, remounted the plastic piece and she now looks like there never was any rust there. Sorry, no pics as it now looks like new.

M.
'96 D1 (daily driver)
'52 S1 80"
'80 Triumph TR7V8

'03 Victory Vegas
'72 Triumph T150T
'58 BSA B33
'50 BSA M21
 
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