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Old 08-06-2017, 02:20 PM
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Just got back from 2 weeks in Colorado in my '94 manual D1. Only real issue was a no start on 2 occasions.

First was at about 12,000ft. Parked at the upper 4wd trailhead for Mt Lincoln. Hiked to the summit and came back down. No start. It would crank fine and the fuel pump was running. Couldn't check pressure at the rail due to no schraeder valve. Reset the inertia switch bit still wouldn't start. Fortunately I turned around and parked facing down the trail before hiking. I was able to release the handbrake, give it a slight push downhill, and pop the clutch to get it started.

Second time was about 20 minutes after pulling into a campground. Went to start the truck to run my air compressor and no start. Waited about 40 minutes and it fired right up.

Any thoughts?
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Old 08-06-2017, 02:39 PM
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Coolant temp sensor would probably be one of the first things I would look at as well as the stepper motor. When I have a crank and no start with 14CUX I like to unplug the inertia switch and try cranking it with the pedal to the floor. If it starts for a second you know you have an overfueling problem or not enough air to the engine.
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Old 08-06-2017, 02:50 PM
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So both times it sorta started/caught but not quite, with me pumping thw pedal slightly. So overfueling/air starvation sounds possible.
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Old 08-06-2017, 03:02 PM
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My 96 did this. No rhyme or reason. New fuel pump took care of it.
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Old 08-06-2017, 04:44 PM
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The best way to confirm the coolant temp sensor is to look at the live data. Most of the time when they fail it will read really low which makes the engine run full rich. sometimes the connectors get corroded or crack. Next time it happens, you can just unplug the sensor. Mine failed in Utah and I made it all the way to California with it unplugged.
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Old 08-06-2017, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jymmiejamz View Post
The best way to confirm the coolant temp sensor is to look at the live data. Most of the time when they fail it will read really low which makes the engine run full rich. sometimes the connectors get corroded or crack. Next time it happens, you can just unplug the sensor. Mine failed in Utah and I made it all the way to California with it unplugged.
I've been meaning to put together a RoverGauge for it. Stock gauge read ok, but we all know how that can be.
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'96 D1 Daily Driver. OME lift, 235/85/16 Toyo AT's.
'95 D1 Project Truck.
'94 D1 Too good to pass up. OME lift, 265/75/16 BFG AT's, Detroit/TruTrac, etc

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No matter how hard you stir it you won't make chocolate ice cream out of a bucket of shit
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Old 08-06-2017, 07:54 PM
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It's been awhile for me, but I've occasionally had a tough time restarting at altitude. What usually does it for me is to release the pressure in the gas tank via the cap.

EDIT: Noticed my sig is gone. Have the same - '94 D1 manual.
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
I've been meaning to put together a RoverGauge for it. Stock gauge read ok, but we all know how that can be.
There are two coolant temp sensors on your truck. One is for the gauge and one is for the fuel injection ECU. The connector that looks like a fuel injector connector on the intake is the one for the fuel injection ECU.
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:56 PM
XCELLER8 XCELLER8 is offline
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my 95 has a similar hot start issue and usually stepping on the gas pedal gets it going.....with mine anyway I'm leaning toward the temp sensor / too rich mixture cuz when it fires up there is a strong smell of partially burnt fuel....flooded
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:32 AM
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It wouldn't start while you cranked it but started right up when you push started it? I wonder if that was just a coincidink or a clue. The coil if I remember correctly gets full on 12 volts when cranking to boost the spark, then gets a lesser voltage thru a resistive wire once its running. I think the module also switches and does something different when cranking.

That's full on puzzle palace shit though.
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Old 08-07-2017, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jymmiejamz View Post
Coolant temp sensor would probably be one of the first things I would look at as well as the stepper motor. When I have a crank and no start with 14CUX I like to unplug the inertia switch and try cranking it with the pedal to the floor. If it starts for a second you know you have an overfueling problem or not enough air to the engine.
Along with the CTS, check the fuel temp sensor. Helps to control fuel mixture on hot starts.
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Old 08-13-2017, 05:46 PM
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So, I have been battling somewhat of a similar problem, but mine has a problem of the Fuel Relay dropping in and out. I have trouble shot the issue to the Ground from the ECU is not able to hold the load on the coil side of the relay. This can happen at almost any time and its somewhat frustrating. Sometimes it is hard to restart but then other time it starts right up with zero problem afterwards.

I have a newer GM fuel pump in it that runs great, I wonder if the load on the fuel pump is more than the relay can hold. I've swapped the relay with others that are known to be good, but it seems the problem just follows it over. I have a new Bosch 40 amp relay that I will try but its been good lately since I installed a waterfall diode on the relay. `

Mine is a 95 which should be close but if you have any questions just PM me and ill be glad to answer.
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Old 08-13-2017, 11:41 PM
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It's the altitude. Creates a flooded like syndrome. If you pull the fuel pump fuse, it will start.
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Old 08-14-2017, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
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It's the altitude. Creates a flooded like syndrome. If you pull the fuel pump fuse, it will start.
This makes sense. espeacially if you havent had any trouble with it since.
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Old 05-19-2018, 07:41 PM
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So I've had no starts twice in my driveway now. Guess I'll have to start troubleshooting. :/
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'98 D1 Trail Rig. Lockers and whatnot. Retired
'96 D1 Daily Driver. OME lift, 235/85/16 Toyo AT's.
'95 D1 Project Truck.
'94 D1 Too good to pass up. OME lift, 265/75/16 BFG AT's, Detroit/TruTrac, etc

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No matter how hard you stir it you won't make chocolate ice cream out of a bucket of shit
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Old 05-19-2018, 08:03 PM
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Have ever replaced the whole fuel sensing unit? I’ve had the same trouble recently. Replaced the pump and still didn’t help. Talking to Will Tillery, sounds like it might be a bad return valve in the sending unit itself. Going to test out a whole new unit next week to see if it fixes.

Btw my fuel pressure would drop off immediately after turning off which lead us to believe the above. Hope that helps
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Old 05-19-2018, 08:49 PM
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I haven't. Outside of Colorado last year I've driven it less than 500 miles on the last two years. I can hear the pump running, but unfortunately there's no valve on the rail for checking fuel pressure.
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'98 D1 Trail Rig. Lockers and whatnot. Retired
'96 D1 Daily Driver. OME lift, 235/85/16 Toyo AT's.
'95 D1 Project Truck.
'94 D1 Too good to pass up. OME lift, 265/75/16 BFG AT's, Detroit/TruTrac, etc

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No matter how hard you stir it you won't make chocolate ice cream out of a bucket of shit
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Old 05-20-2018, 09:12 AM
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Check spark when it does it. The coil or the distributor is more likely to be the problem. Since you hear the pump run, seems a stretch to think it doesn't make pressure intermittently.
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Old 05-20-2018, 02:36 PM
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Dumping rain this AM so no troubleshooting. ALMOST got it to fire though, it almost caught.
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'98 D1 Trail Rig. Lockers and whatnot. Retired
'96 D1 Daily Driver. OME lift, 235/85/16 Toyo AT's.
'95 D1 Project Truck.
'94 D1 Too good to pass up. OME lift, 265/75/16 BFG AT's, Detroit/TruTrac, etc

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No matter how hard you stir it you won't make chocolate ice cream out of a bucket of shit
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Old 05-21-2018, 01:35 PM
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So went out yesterday evening. Wouldn't start the first couple times but sounded close. Loosened the fuel cap but nothing hissed out. Found the ECU Coolant Temp sensor and the plug was really loose. Pulled the plug off. Tried starting and this time it fired up. It was really chugging and rough at first. CEL popped immediately, Code 14 - Coolant Temp Sensor. Not a big surprise since it was unplugged.

I drove the truck around the neighborhood and it seemed fine. Parked it, shut it off, and restarted it a few times without issue.

So I still have no idea what the problem was/is.

How do I clear the CEL on a 14CUX truck?
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'98 D1 Trail Rig. Lockers and whatnot. Retired
'96 D1 Daily Driver. OME lift, 235/85/16 Toyo AT's.
'95 D1 Project Truck.
'94 D1 Too good to pass up. OME lift, 265/75/16 BFG AT's, Detroit/TruTrac, etc

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No matter how hard you stir it you won't make chocolate ice cream out of a bucket of shit
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Old 05-21-2018, 01:40 PM
robertf robertf is online now
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Pull the underhood fuse to reset the light without a scan tool
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Old 05-21-2018, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by discostew View Post
Check spark when it does it. The coil or the distributor is more likely to be the problem. Since you hear the pump run, seems a stretch to think it doesn't make pressure intermittently.
My guess too. Just went through this.. so you have spark? If you don?t start checking coil first, distributor rotor, finally if those two are good mostly likely the ignition module is toast. I just changed mine out after multiple days of no start in the trail and testing everything spark related. My NAS 110 still had the original ignition module dated 1992. Also adjusted air gap and timing. If you have the old 2 pin module you?ll need the 3 to 2 pin conversion cable. Good luck!
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Old 06-19-2018, 03:25 PM
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So it sat for 2-3 weeks. I tried to start it Sunday, it kinda stumbled once or twice but would never catch and run.
I swapped the coolant temp sensor(the one with the rectangle plug) and spliced in a new plug since the old one was partially broken. Still no luck.
I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked it. It eventually caught and started and ran. I got out of the truck and walked around to reinstall the fuse but it died just as I went to put it in. I'm guessing it ran out of fuel since the pump wasn't running. I reinstalled the fuse and cranked. It fired right up and ran. Tried it again last night and it fired right up.
I wonder if its what BDM suggested, the return valve on the fuel sending unit?
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'98 D1 Trail Rig. Lockers and whatnot. Retired
'96 D1 Daily Driver. OME lift, 235/85/16 Toyo AT's.
'95 D1 Project Truck.
'94 D1 Too good to pass up. OME lift, 265/75/16 BFG AT's, Detroit/TruTrac, etc

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No matter how hard you stir it you won't make chocolate ice cream out of a bucket of shit
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Old 06-20-2018, 06:46 PM
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Truck wouldn't start today. No amount of fuse pulling helped. It sounds like it almost wants to catch the second I stop turning the key to crank it.
This the ignition module referred to?
https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC1184
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'98 D1 Trail Rig. Lockers and whatnot. Retired
'96 D1 Daily Driver. OME lift, 235/85/16 Toyo AT's.
'95 D1 Project Truck.
'94 D1 Too good to pass up. OME lift, 265/75/16 BFG AT's, Detroit/TruTrac, etc

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No matter how hard you stir it you won't make chocolate ice cream out of a bucket of shit
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Old 06-21-2018, 03:06 AM
El Ed El Ed is offline
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Quote:
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Truck wouldn't start today. No amount of fuse pulling helped. It sounds like it almost wants to catch the second I stop turning the key to crank it.
This the ignition module referred to?
https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC1184
Yup, thats the one! Check the connection ends for any corrosion and make sure you have the correct cable otherwise you'll need the 3 to 2 pin connector.
So, do you have spark or not?
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