New here...looking at a 2006 LR3

jdarwin

Member
Oct 23, 2017
17
0
Nebraska
I agree with these equations and would add Si>Siii<Siia and FC101>Siib.

As a Series III owner, I'm hurt... but I think you're probably right.

In any case, to contribute to this thread: I'll echo a few things and say that it is absolutely worth waiting for the right truck with the right time frame. OP, you ought to be able to find a well-equipped, well-serviced LR3 for south of $10K. They don't come up every day, but they are out there if you're willing to skim and wait. I don't own an LR3 but know a few folks who do. Like most other Rovers, they have their quirks, but with a known service history, most of the quirks are predictable and easy enough to tackle on your own. I've also wheeled some pretty technical trails with LR3s, and they will surprise you with how capable they are off-road.

I'll also say that yes, owning a Rover is a labor of love. I have much more experience with Series than with newer Rovers, but love my truck and have had great experiences with other Rover owners. Yes, your truck is going to eat into your weekend time, yes, it will often be expensive, and yes, sometimes you'll wish your truck would just fucking work 100% of the time, but there's nothing like these trucks when they're working and running. I like wrenching, it's an opportunity for me to get away from my computer and work with my hands. If you want a turnkey truck that will be trouble-free, don't buy a Rover. If you're willing to put the work in and treat it right, you'll wonder why you didn't get into one sooner.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
I think you would be better off in a LR3, but not that one. New control arms are good. But the terrain response problem is more than likely due to the water that was filling the cabin before the sunroof drains got cleared. I would bet good money that the problem with terrain response is a corroded electrical splice on a red wire in the right front door sill area. And that's just going to be the beginning of the splice troubles.

Also going to be putting a $1000 suspension compressor in it before long if it hasent been updated yet.

I think most 08 LR3's in good condition might be worth 7,500 but NONE of them are worth 17,000 or whatever crazy # that guys got on his truck.
 

Rob371

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2016
150
1
Charlevoix, Michigan
Nice looking lr3 on "land rover trading wall 'MERICAN version" on facebook. Just came up last few days. 14K I think he's asking. Has steel bumpers and claims to have locker. Worth a look maybe.
 

Eliot

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2008
736
47
Bozeman, MT
Hi folks,

I registered here in order to hopefully gather some info about a couple LR models, specifically the D2 and LR3 and have found an LR3 I am interested in buying. Thing is, his asking price ($17k) is WAY over what KBB says they're worth (I am seeing more like $11k) so I wanted to get some idea of whether this is typical of the brand (I come from Toyota, Subaru, Volvo, etc) or if he's totally out of his mind.

I paid 17k for an 08 SE with 55k miles last summer. That was from the dealership though.

It's weird owning a Rover that just works, and isn't rusting away underneath me.

I miss my Classic though.
 

tamjam

Member
Nov 16, 2017
7
0
Marin County, CA
Nice looking lr3 on "land rover trading wall 'MERICAN version" on facebook. Just came up last few days. 14K I think he's asking. Has steel bumpers and claims to have locker. Worth a look maybe.

Oh damn that is spectacular. If it were closer (and still for sale) I'd be all over it.
 

jwest

Well-known member
May 28, 2006
899
7
WA & NC
I think you would be better off in a LR3, but not that one. New control arms are good. But the terrain response problem is more than likely due to the water that was filling the cabin before the sunroof drains got cleared. I would bet good money that the problem with terrain response is a corroded electrical splice on a red wire in the right front door sill area. And that's just going to be the beginning of the splice troubles.

Also going to be putting a $1000 suspension compressor in it before long if it hasent been updated yet.

I think most 08 LR3's in good condition might be worth 7,500 but NONE of them are worth 17,000 or whatever crazy # that guys got on his truck.

I agree on lr3 over d2 but probably for the refinement and long trip comfort than much else. I still have the 96 04 and 07 listed below.

Some compressors just keep working but i think it probably depends on many factors. I towed often with mine as well as used it off road/raised which works the compressor a lot more often. $1000 though? I think the top 3 models are more like $800 or less and are so easy to DIY.
 

jwest

Well-known member
May 28, 2006
899
7
WA & NC
Oh damn that is spectacular. If it were closer (and still for sale) I'd be all over it.

Keep in mind, it's rare the HD locker will be truly needed. I've gone through with ease some trails rated "short wheelbase, lockers, min 35" by using 32" bfg ko2, belly& sill armor, and on demand higher lift.

Properly functioning Terrain Response is WAY more important than HD. Long term you can get ARB lockers front and rear on an lr3 if you want to get silly.

Don't pay too much extra for a claim of newer control arms unless they've done ALL 8 like I have and can show you they used quality parts. There are a ton of low quality out there and few people, even dealers, think of going with the simple but smart upgrade to the Meyle HD ball joints - like I did DIY. Along those lines, if they didn't also at same time replace the 4 fr/Rr sway bar bushings, end links, toe links, etc, then they were being cheap and you'll just have to spend $ or time digging in there for all that shit anyway.

I replaced almost everything in that area all at once including new bilstein 4600 struts plus LR dust boots up front which I'd never seen on any lr3 before on the front struts but they were a LR genuine part # and fit perfectly.

Also did new brake set: EBC oem sized for v6 to allow fitting LR 17" wheels & thus more choices of tire sizes due to the tricky max tire size issues w lr3/4. I currently use the 17's for E load range studded Nokian lt2 - insanely good traction with the ground pressure being higher using a 7" wheel w 245/75-17.