I decided a while back to start over and re-imagine how the vehicle is wired.
Here's the first note.
Rather than placing all the batteries in a rear cage, I'm going to leave one in the front. The Aedofab tray always sat a little high, so I'm making another to give a bit more room. I'll use the empty space to mount a small Pelican case in which the copper bars will be installed, threaded, and fitted with studs.
Using a 34/78 Northstar battery, I'll shrink two cables into an "L" shape, one for positive and negative. They will pass through the case wall via marine bulkhead pass-throughs for corrosion prevention as well as strain and abrasion relief. So, from the top, you'll just see two wires cleanly sliding down the side of the battery into the side of the case.
The case itself will function as the housing for a "distribution block". Rather than using audio hardware that's nice, but difficult to service in the field, I'm going with 100% marine hardware and wiring. I just got lucky as fuck, in that regard. Overton's store here closed up for renovation, and everything was 75% off; and I got most of the wire, terminals, and lugs.
I'll run positive and negative to the rear of the vehicle where another distribution block will be fitted. Overall, I'll be using less wire than before, and it'll be clean and up to any level of vibration. I'd love to see a fucking grounding issue with this setup. :rofl:
Never had a problem before, either, but this will be a pretty clean setup. Using a 34/78 will leave easily accessible top terminals for temporary power needs and jumping other vehicles. So long as the option is available, it doesn't make sense not to use it. The price difference is negligible at that point.
Obviously, none of the graphic is to scale, and it's just a loose illustration to keep my addled mind on track.
I don't normally post what I'm up to, as I never know when I'll have time to give progress updates, but I figured I'd at least try to start.
Cheers,
Kennith
Here's the first note.
Rather than placing all the batteries in a rear cage, I'm going to leave one in the front. The Aedofab tray always sat a little high, so I'm making another to give a bit more room. I'll use the empty space to mount a small Pelican case in which the copper bars will be installed, threaded, and fitted with studs.
Using a 34/78 Northstar battery, I'll shrink two cables into an "L" shape, one for positive and negative. They will pass through the case wall via marine bulkhead pass-throughs for corrosion prevention as well as strain and abrasion relief. So, from the top, you'll just see two wires cleanly sliding down the side of the battery into the side of the case.
The case itself will function as the housing for a "distribution block". Rather than using audio hardware that's nice, but difficult to service in the field, I'm going with 100% marine hardware and wiring. I just got lucky as fuck, in that regard. Overton's store here closed up for renovation, and everything was 75% off; and I got most of the wire, terminals, and lugs.
I'll run positive and negative to the rear of the vehicle where another distribution block will be fitted. Overall, I'll be using less wire than before, and it'll be clean and up to any level of vibration. I'd love to see a fucking grounding issue with this setup. :rofl:
Never had a problem before, either, but this will be a pretty clean setup. Using a 34/78 will leave easily accessible top terminals for temporary power needs and jumping other vehicles. So long as the option is available, it doesn't make sense not to use it. The price difference is negligible at that point.
Obviously, none of the graphic is to scale, and it's just a loose illustration to keep my addled mind on track.
I don't normally post what I'm up to, as I never know when I'll have time to give progress updates, but I figured I'd at least try to start.
Cheers,
Kennith