Transmission Fault >HDC system Fault > suspension lowering

lando_shriner said:

Its been a LONG time since Ive visited this site. My 2006 LR3 has had the same issue for over a year, I just bump it to neutral, cycle the ignition switch, put it back into drive and keep going. It does become an issue at night, when I turn the ignition off(momentarily) the headlamps go off/on. Im sure stopping and restarting the engine traveling down the highways isnt a great choice, but it seems to work. Oh, and I have replaced the battery, but that didnt fix anything either.
I took it to LR Cary, NC. They said it was an ECM, but I strongly disagree! My LR3, when it sits for a few days without being driven will lower to the stops. It does promptly raise when I start it again. My disagreeance with LR Carys Diag., was that when the vehicle isnt on, the ECM cant just decide to lower the suspension(I am aware it does level automatically, but the techs ive talked to say it shouldnt lower to the stops). Im not a tech, but I have come to believe that I have an air suspension bag, line, or compressor leak. After 50-100 miles the compressor gets tired of doing its job, says the hell with it, throws a fault, and the LR3 3 Amigos appear. As for when it sits still and lowers, I believe the LR3 has a continuous loop air system, so a small bag leak on left rear side would eventually exhaust the entire system causing it to lower. I may be completely wrong about all my assumptions, if so, someone around here will be sure to quickly correct me. Im ok with that too!

Eric, I sympathize with your aggrevations. Maybe someone around here can guide us to a solution. I know I would buy a spring conversion, if they were avail.

-Landon

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I think that you need to get codes read for the issue you described that cycling the key takes care of . But sinking down while its sitting will most likely be an unrelated issue . Maybe some corner Height sensors could cause both problems . If you park the truck in extended mode and leave a door open , you could single out what corner is leaking . If a door is open the truck wont make an adjustment , so it wont try to compensate for one corner sinking.

Were these all located in the loom that sits in the valley that runs from the front to back of the truck? How do you get the bracket off that holds the door seal in place? I have the door seal pulled up, but I don't see any screws.

lforgue8 said:

i just fixed 5 different spilces in that area on a sport but this had standing water in the sill!

i would check any other splices you can find in that silll......the key remote signal splice is in there on an LR3 and key remote function stops working if that splice goes bad

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Stick a long screwdriver in and pry it upward. Under that is a black plastic cover held to the Floor with white plastic fasteners. Pop that off the floor the same way and pull it out from under the seat trim. It's a bitch to get back in without taking the seat out but I get them back in.
I hear you guys saying that as is means as is in Texas. But did you go tell them this thing made it 10 miles and now it's a brick in your driveway?

True you should look at all the splices but the one I'm most interested in right now is a red one. It's usually in the front 20% of the opening for the rt frt door. Look at them closely because you also going to find a red with a black line on it.

I text the guy that sold it to me and the sales manager "You sold me a flood recovery..." and didn't get so much as a "I'm sorry"...

discostew said:

Stick a long screwdriver in and pry it upward. Under that is a black plastic cover held to the Floor with white plastic fasteners. Pop that off the floor the same way and pulpit out from under the seat trim. It's a bitch to get back in without taking the seat out but I get them back in.
I hear you guys saying that as is means as is in Texas. But did you go tell them this thing made it 10 miles and now it's a brick in your driveway?

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From what I've read...I'm pretty sure I'm going to need to check all of the splices on both sides of the truck...I'm not sure if I mentioned this before, but there was water sitting in the sills of both the d/s and p/s...we had a serious torrential downpour just a couple of days before I purchased....I have a feeling that there are numerous splices that need replacing.

discostew said:

True you should look at all the splices but the one I'm most interested in right now is a red one. It's usually in the front 20% of the opening for the rt frt door. Look at them closely because you also going to find a red with a black line on it.

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Check your cowl in the front. The rubber seal separates from the windshield and the water runs like a river down into the cabin. It can really fuck shit up.

For you to have the kind of water your talking about you should look at the cowl to windshield seal. Just like devildog mentioned. If that's what's going on your cabin filter will be wet. The red splice does go to another splice as well on the left side. Yes your going to want to fix them all and the water is killing them all. First you need to find your problem so you don't make more problems. The red splice I'm talking about feeds the brake switch, the steering angle sensor, and the center console switchpack. There a grey/black one that will make your windows inop. A green/white one that will make your keyless entry inop. Rt now concentrate on the one that has your truck all pissed off. And find your water leak.

S

drew_lewis said:

I text the guy that sold it to me and the sales manager "You sold me a flood recovery..." and didn't get so much as a "I'm sorry"...

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Don't text him. Go in and talk to him. There is an outside chance he doesn't know what he's done. It won't surprise me if you get this all dry and it starts to run again.these things can be very intermittent. be carefull when your digging under the carpet because razor blades get left behind sometimes.
I would get the sill trim and the black plastic protector out of it so the wire harness is exposed especially on the rt side. But both sides preferably. Carefully cut the black tape from the harness and spread the harness out a little like your sorting tutu a deck of cards. Look for blue tape that covers the splices. When you find the red one try to pull the wires out of it. If it's a bad splice it will come apart.
I don't know if your going to be working on this today but I'm going to be MIA for a while. These guys will still be around and they will help you.
Definitely get your sill areas exposed and start drying it out. You will find that the harness is zip tied to a little bracket in the frt near the kickpanel snip those so you have more room to look at the harness

I did see some spots in the cowl that were lifted/warped away from the glass on both sides. I checked the air filter and it was dry. I tapped it and dust came out no problem. I actually did call the sales guy...first he was saying "oh, I had no idea" then he said "to be honest, we leave the windows cracked on all of these cars and now we are having to dry them all out..." he offered for me to bring it by for his detailer to take a look at it....but other than that he said he couldn't do anything about it. "as is"

discostew said:

S

Don't text him. Go in and talk to him. There is an outside chance he doesn't know what he's done. It won't surprise me if you get this all dry and it starts to run again.these things can be very intermittent. be carefull when your digging under the carpet because razor blades get left behind sometimes.
I would get the sill trim and the black plastic protector out of it so the wire harness is exposed especially on the rt side. But both sides preferably. Carefully cut the black tape from the harness and spread the harness out a little like your sorting tutu a deck of cards. Look for blue tape that covers the splices. When you find the red one try to pull the wires out of it. If it's a bad splice it will come apart.
I don't know if your going to be working on this today but I'm going to be MIA for a while. These guys will still be around and they will help you.
Definitely get your sill areas exposed and start drying it out. You will find that the harness is zip tied to a little bracket in the frt near the kickpanel snip those so you have more room to look at the harness

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It's not the diagnostic tool that"s going to fix this car its you. Even with the Land Rover equipment I have to go fix this crap for other mechanics I work with. Can you get your money back out of this toilet and get one that runs? I had 20 damn hours in the last one I did before I found the one broken wire that was causing the problem. I've been doing this professionally since 1981 and these problems are the worst I have ever dealt with.

discostew said:

It's not the diagnostic tool that"s going to fix this car its you. Even with the Land Rover equipment I have to go fix this crap for other mechanics I work with. Can you get your money back out of this toilet and get one that runs? I had 20 damn hours in the last one I did before I found the one broken wire that was causing the problem. I've been doing this professionally since 1981 and these problems are the worst I have ever dealt with.

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Which means it is time to take out the seats, take out all the carpet/ panels and start tracing all the wires and check the plugs for water or damages, right?

No its way past that time. But a list of modules responding is going to be a must have. Measurements of the CAN networks terminating resistors is going to be a must have but we can't find our meter. Voltage and ground measurements at the modules not responding and an understanding of what it looks like when a networkrk has lost one of its terminating resistors. What is the voltage reading in the networks when its acting up? Who knows.

And why would this thing crank when the network is down. The only time I ever saw that was when someone spliced into the starter relay circuit to bypass it. I guess they thought it would start if they got the engine spinning. Well it didn't.

You are so hot.

Are these red wires with a brown stripe ?

Disco_2.7v6 said:

Are these red wires with a brown stripe ?

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Probably not. Keep looking. Just red is the ones that cause a ton of problems.

I was having the same problems described in this thread and think I finally found a solution. I wanted to share some info... depending on the software flashed to various land rover ecus, the brake switch can affect the entire CANBUS network. This is why there are so many faults going off, every component that uses the CANBUS can be affected.

I ended up finding a red wire with a bit of corrosion exactly where it was described on this thread. That same red wire is in the brake switch plug... rather than digging it out like I did, I wish I would have just checked the current at the end of the plug. If it's getting 11.9+ volts then a corroded/broken wire is probably not the problem. I soldered and heat-shrinked mine anyway.

And there are some posts with similar symptoms that suggest a broken steering angle sensor (SAS). If you're trying to sort this out, take a peek at your steering angle sensor while you've got the kick panel off for the brake switch. The sensor is a yellowish brown collar right in front of the U-joint on the steering shaft. It's directly above the brake pedal, and it should turn along with the steering wheel. Some SAS have slipped, which causes chaos for the transmission control module because it reads that you're turning when youre not and can throw a brake error. If you have Navigation, you can switch to the 4x4 and the front tires in that picture should exactly match the direction of your steering wheel as you turn it about. If this angle is off, one can glue the inner ring of the SAS in place (replace it altogether) and get the SAS recalibrated with a tool like the IIDtool or fault mate. The dealer will obviously do it too.

My problem ended up being a transfer case control module(TCCM). The module is right behind the battery and can get wet. My problems started during a rain, and the TCCM got wet. When I pulled it out there was green corosion on the plug pins. Unfortunately, this module needs to be calibrated as well, which is why I sprung for an IIDtool to do all the calibrations. I got a used TCCM and configured it, back up and running in about 30 minutes. Such a relief after 2 months of limping around! Unfortunately, based on my resarch these symptoms can also be due to errors with the YAW sensor, transmission control module, parking assist module, instrument cluster, or body control module).

The stealers apparently have a "network integrity test" on their diagnostic software that isolates each module on the CANBUS to pinpoint if any are causing havoc. I wasn't able to find any consumer grade diagnostic tool with this feature, if anyone knows of a solution, please share! Now that I have the IIDtool, if I get this problem again I will 1) take it into the dealer for a network scan and 2) buy a used replacement module on ebay, and 3) configure and flash the new module using the IIDtool. Note to furutre self... remember to actually do this before wasting as much time as I did this go around!

I hope this helps somebody

Well your kinda right. The corrosion in the T Case module can cause a lotta bad stuff and the red splice does feed one terminal on the brake light switch. But it also powers up the terrain response, I think the steering angle sensor too. so the splice your talking about will cause CAN network problems because those modules would not be powered up and transmitting data.

The network integrity test us stealers have on our diagnostic computers will tell us what modules are not reporting on the network. From there we still have to diagnose why those modules are off line. First we might check the CAN network activity right at the connector for any modules not reporting. If that checks good we would make sure that module has battery voltage and ground. So after we check that the module does have battery voltage and ground where it needs it and the CAN network is active right at the module we suspect the module. The Diagnostic computer doesn't tell us the module is " causing havoc "

But then of course when you start looking at connectors like I was talking about, sometimes you see the green fur before you even get a scope on the CAN network.