Binding/popping right rear when turning only

BDM · Dec 16, 2016

08' LR3 117k HSE open diffs, Johnson rods, 32's

Randomly started binding and popping only when turning hard right forward or reverse. Seems like right rear. It binds and pops a little when turning left as well. Wife drove it fine to store, backed out of parking space and felt the binding. No loud pop, bang, explosion, etc.

When the wheels are straight no issues. No clunks under acceleration either. Rover shift ts, accelerates and drives smooth.

Binding looks and sounds like from right rear. If I get my wife to turn hard right and slowly accelerate you can see the wheel stop and bind and then unlock intermittently.

Did some searching and heard it might be a CV joint, rear sway bar or the E brake not fully disengaging.

Taking a look underneath no leaks from CV boots, completely dry. Diff fluid is clean, no grinding noises.

Anyone have any insight or experience?

Thanks in advance

discostew · Dec 16, 2016

Make sure its not the upper control arm bushings moving around. Sometimes the transfer case binds and its almost impossible to tell if it's the rear diff or the t case. I think if you got it acting up in a parking lot then jacked up the rear of the truck you might be able to spin the rear wheels and see if that's whats binding. I'm thinking its more likely your t-case.

BDM · Dec 16, 2016

Hmmm. Ok thanks discostew. I would think if it was the tcase wouldn't there be other symptoms, not just when turning? It drives down the road fine. Really on full lock out right or left do I get binding.

Previous owner had the tcase replaced because the bearings failed on it so hoping its not that.

I'll get it jacked up in the driveway tomorrow and see what I can find. Thanks again

stu454 · Dec 17, 2016

If the e-brake was staying engaged the rotor would be hotter than two rats fucking in a wool sock. Don't ask me how I know.

BDM · Dec 17, 2016

I'd agree. Don't think it's the ebrake.

BDM · Dec 17, 2016

I jacked up the front end and I got a good 1/2" of play when moving the tire left to right. No play when moving up and down.

Would tie rod ends cause this problem?

discostew · Dec 17, 2016

BDM said:
I jacked up the front end and I got a good 1/2" of play when moving the tire left to right. No play when moving up and down.

Would tie rod ends cause this problem?

Not really sure cause its hard to say whats going on without having the truck here. But I would be looking for one of the rear wheels not spinning while you try to hold the other with the truck in neutral. It does sound kind of like you have something binding in a diff.

discostew · Dec 17, 2016

BDM said:
I'd agree. Don't think it's the ebrake.

It's easy enough to adjust the park brake. Tighten the star wheel till you cant turn it anymore and the shoes are slammed against the drum. Then back it off 12 clicks. It's not really a solid click, its more like a thud when the adjuster wheel hits the spring.

I would make sure that's right. Shit gets hot and the lining comes off the steel part of the shoe. Then they get piggybacked in the drum like a spun bearing. That's a bad day.

BDM · Dec 18, 2016

Changed the diff fluid which was actually clean. On the plug tho was a good amount of goopy clutch crap. Filled with royal purple synthetic 75w90 and it feels like it's actually better. Doesn't bind as much when turning but still catches a little.

I guess I'm looking at a new rear diff!

I guess it makes sense that it's the rear diff not disengaging properly when cornering. Thanks again for the feedback discostew. Any other thoughts are appreciated. How hard is to replace myself? I have jacks and basic tools. Don't most stuff like water pumps etc myself.

BDM · Dec 18, 2016

Ok. Got a holy shit update here:

Drained front and rear diffs replaced with royal purple. No change.

While in parking lot did some figure 8's and listened to the binding. There it low range forward and backward. Felt like it might be the tcase binding. When taking it out low range it would "pop". So I drained the fluid and it looked like muddy water. Fucking disgusting for a case that has less than 50k on it!

Put some royal purple which has friction additive in it drove it for 15min AND THE TRUCK FUCKING CURED ITSELF!!!
*edit- I mistakingly put in RP max gear lube in the tcase initially (after putting it in diffs). After driving around the block I realized my mistake. Drained the fluid and replaced with RP max ATF (LR says tcase calls for ATF fluid) and has been great.

I'm still a little apprehensive but this is good fucking news. I thought for sure I was going to shell out 3k for a new tcase. FML. I'll keep you up to date. Thanks discostew for the help.

I've notIced others had problems with this in other forums but never found an answer. Hopefully this post will shed some light. Royal Purple really is worth its weight in gold.

My only question is how did the fluid get so dirty with less than 50k on it? Should I look at the vent or is there a way to upgrade it? Thanks again

rover4x4 · Jan 29, 2017

How's it running now

BDM · Apr 4, 2017

4 months later and the truck is running awesome.

I'm getting ready to do the pan upgrade for transmission fluid.

Driving the family to NC this weekend from CA as we're relocating and feel pretty confident about it.

SMLE · Apr 5, 2017

Had the exact symptoms you described, on a Jeep Wrangler. Binding, popping, etc.... primarily when turning or taking off fast from a stopped position. Wound up being several of the gears in the rear differential being torn up. I attributed that to having hauled a fully loaded 6x12 enclosed trailer back and forth from Florida to Georgia a few years ago. Too much weight being pulled...

Changing the fluid also made it mostly go away for me,,,, for a while... drove it for several years like that (wasn't too bad), till one day quite suddenly, it sounded like the rear end was about to fall off.

Having the rear diff rebuilt made it go away permanently.

Niver39 · May 8, 2017

I am having the exact same problem with my lr3 did you get multiple clucks and pops in a row? Mine definitely sounds like something is binding.

BDM · May 12, 2017

Niver39 said:
I am having the exact same problem with my lr3 did you get multiple clucks and pops in a row? Mine definitely sounds like something is binding.

Yep. When's the last time you had the fluids serviced on the tcase and diffs? I'd do transfer case first. From my research on other forums royal purple max ATF will work in the tcase and that's what I used. Drove up an exit and back on the freeway and it cleared it up. I drained the tcase again and refilled with new fluid after.

I also used RP synthetic gear oil for my diffs.

Tcase should be done every 50-75k. Diffs every 30-50k depending how you drive.

WeBeCinYa · May 13, 2017

My LR3 does this popping from the front end when in full turn lock. I have a brand new rear diff so it's not that plus it's coming from wheel area. Sounds like CV joint to my ears. Only happens at full lock. No other symptoms or issues. Could be control arms too. Will sort out this summer.

BDM · Oct 15, 2017

Put 5k on the truck including a coast to coast drive and the issues haven't come back.

kalani0115 · Jul 20, 2022

BDM said:
Ok. Got a holy shit update here:

Drained front and rear diffs replaced with royal purple. No change.

While in parking lot did some figure 8's and listened to the binding. There it low range forward and backward. Felt like it might be the tcase binding. When taking it out low range it would "pop". So I drained the fluid and it looked like muddy water. Fucking disgusting for a case that has less than 50k on it!

Put some royal purple which has friction additive in it drove it for 15min AND THE TRUCK FUCKING CURED ITSELF!!!
*edit- I mistakingly put in RP max gear lube in the tcase initially (after putting it in diffs). After driving around the block I realized my mistake. Drained the fluid and replaced with RP max ATF (LR says tcase calls for ATF fluid) and has been great.

I'm still a little apprehensive but this is good fucking news. I thought for sure I was going to shell out 3k for a new tcase. FML. I'll keep you up to date. Thanks discostew for the help.

I've notIced others had problems with this in other forums but never found an answer. Hopefully this post will shed some light. Royal Purple really is worth its weight in gold.

My only question is how did the fluid get so dirty with less than 50k on it? Should I look at the vent or is there a way to upgrade it? Thanks again

Has the royal purple been doing ok in your diffs I have the same issues and was wanting to change the fluid

kalani0115 · Jul 20, 2022

BDM said:
Ok. Got a holy shit update here:

Drained front and rear diffs replaced with royal purple. No change.

While in parking lot did some figure 8's and listened to the binding. There it low range forward and backward. Felt like it might be the tcase binding. When taking it out low range it would "pop". So I drained the fluid and it looked like muddy water. Fucking disgusting for a case that has less than 50k on it!

Put some royal purple which has friction additive in it drove it for 15min AND THE TRUCK FUCKING CURED ITSELF!!!
*edit- I mistakingly put in RP max gear lube in the tcase initially (after putting it in diffs). After driving around the block I realized my mistake. Drained the fluid and replaced with RP max ATF (LR says tcase calls for ATF fluid) and has been great.

I'm still a little apprehensive but this is good fucking news. I thought for sure I was going to shell out 3k for a new tcase. FML. I'll keep you up to date. Thanks discostew for the help.

I've notIced others had problems with this in other forums but never found an answer. Hopefully this post will shed some light. Royal Purple really is worth its weight in gold.

My only question is how did the fluid get so dirty with less than 50k on it? Should I look at the vent or is there a way to upgrade it? Thanks again

Is there a certain weight or kind you used for the diff?

kalani0115 · Jul 20, 2022

BDM said:
Ok. Got a holy shit update here:

Drained front and rear diffs replaced with royal purple. No change.

While in parking lot did some figure 8's and listened to the binding. There it low range forward and backward. Felt like it might be the tcase binding. When taking it out low range it would "pop". So I drained the fluid and it looked like muddy water. Fucking disgusting for a case that has less than 50k on it!

Put some royal purple which has friction additive in it drove it for 15min AND THE TRUCK FUCKING CURED ITSELF!!!
*edit- I mistakingly put in RP max gear lube in the tcase initially (after putting it in diffs). After driving around the block I realized my mistake. Drained the fluid and replaced with RP max ATF (LR says tcase calls for ATF fluid) and has been great.

I'm still a little apprehensive but this is good fucking news. I thought for sure I was going to shell out 3k for a new tcase. FML. I'll keep you up to date. Thanks discostew for the help.

I've notIced others had problems with this in other forums but never found an answer. Hopefully this post will shed some light. Royal Purple really is worth its weight in gold.

My only question is how did the fluid get so dirty with less than 50k on it? Should I look at the vent or is there a way to upgrade it? Thanks again

Also do you have the locking diff

Binding/popping right rear when turning only

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