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  #1  
Old 04-25-2008, 02:32 AM
a2tripp
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looking for clarification on steps needed to reset ecu's adaptive settings on a 96 discovery. Will disconnecting the battery work?
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  #2  
Old 04-25-2008, 06:45 AM
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No, disconnecting the battery will not work. Some OBD-II scanners will do it, otherwise, you'll need the Rover-specific computer and the function to do it is located in the Petrol EMS section.
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  #3  
Old 04-25-2008, 12:00 PM
a2tripp
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thanks for your reply, is there no way to do this without a computer? I am in a very remote location and the local garage here says that they can't do it.
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  #4  
Old 04-25-2008, 12:24 PM
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None that I know of. Others might know one, but I don't.
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Dominic Perodeau and John Monaghan are thieves.

I'm still in the parts and engine building business-my service activities are being reduced, not my interest in serving the Rover community

I am easily contacted via text message to 260-804-0458 or pt@ptschram.com. PMs are least reliable
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  #5  
Old 04-25-2008, 09:02 PM
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I've never tried this but I remember something about disconnecting both battery cables & touching them together to discharge the capacitors in the ECM, "resetting" it.
Probably an old wives tale, but it's free & can't hurt anything.
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  #6  
Old 04-25-2008, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by group captain mandrake
I've never tried this but I remember something about disconnecting both battery cables & touching them together to discharge the capacitors in the ECM, "resetting" it.
Probably an old wives tale, but it's free & can't hurt anything.
nop!
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I was thinking you could just run a long bolt through the place where jate rings would mount and attach a loop of good chain to it, one link under the head of the bolt with washers, and one link under the nut side with washers, kind of like a jate ring, but a loop instead.
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Old 04-26-2008, 12:48 AM
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I don't know what "nop" means.
I assume you mean: "That is an old wive's tale."
It probably is.
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  #8  
Old 04-26-2008, 12:49 AM
a2tripp
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disconnecting a battery for 8 hours and contacting the terminal on a 96 disco is a myth, it does not work. there is no land rover dealer within 600 miles, what kind of of scan tool that a independent garage would have would be able to reset the adaptive values?
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  #9  
Old 04-26-2008, 12:53 AM
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I'm curious; why do you need to "reset the adaptive values"?
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  #10  
Old 04-26-2008, 01:21 AM
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Different size motor?

I was under the impression that you need testbook, autologic, or rovacom to do it. But I'm guessing DEC can do it along with others.
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  #11  
Old 04-26-2008, 01:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by group captain mandrake
I've never tried this but I remember something about disconnecting both battery cables & touching them together to discharge the capacitors in the ECM, "resetting" it.
Probably an old wives tale, but it's free & can't hurt anything.
that is a "hard reset". Hold the cables together for 10 seconds.

Don't know if it works on a D1 though. Try it and see.
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  #12  
Old 04-26-2008, 01:32 AM
a2tripp
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trying to solve a high idle issue, I have ruled it down to ecm i think, I was hoping that that I could flash the ecm to see if that helps.

long story is the I have a rough idle/ stall issue going on since I bought this under-maintained 96 5spd. I idle about 2k sometimes jumps to 1.5K, 600 or stalls. Does this warm or hot. checked hoses, new stepper, swapped tps, seafoam, plugs, and more jank that i cant remember, all with no change. I have searched posts and followed the the electrical diagrams and they all seem to point to the ecm. I know that the po screwed around with the idle screw, I think thats the cause of my stall, but i cant figure out the high idle. Theres nowhere to take it, and pretty soon I am going to lose the clutch. So theres my need to flash the ecm. Im not sure of anything though, so any help would be great.

Also I get codes for misfire on #4, replaced the plug, the pold one reeked like fuel, and you can definately here it in the tailpipe. maybe that will help

...I wonder how many words that post was
thanks
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  #13  
Old 04-26-2008, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by group captain mandrake
I don't know what "nop" means.
I assume you mean: "That is an old wive's tale."
It probably is.
Sorry I was not clear! Your assumption of my assumption is correct.

#4 fuel injector sounds like it is leaky or a ignition bad wire
if the po messed witht hte base idle try to reset that
you may have an air leak as well
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I was thinking you could just run a long bolt through the place where jate rings would mount and attach a loop of good chain to it, one link under the head of the bolt with washers, and one link under the nut side with washers, kind of like a jate ring, but a loop instead.
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  #14  
Old 04-26-2008, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyleT
that is a "hard reset". Hold the cables together for 10 seconds.

Don't know if it works on a D1 though. Try it and see.
The only reason listed in the factory documentation to connect both battery cables together is to discharge the capacitors in the SRS ECU.
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Dominic Perodeau and John Monaghan are thieves.

I'm still in the parts and engine building business-my service activities are being reduced, not my interest in serving the Rover community

I am easily contacted via text message to 260-804-0458 or pt@ptschram.com. PMs are least reliable
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  #15  
Old 04-27-2008, 01:59 AM
a2tripp
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yeah putting the cables didnt do a thing, worth a try though, im going to do a compression check to #4, i also need to replace my fuel filter too, hopefully that and the new mag wires (if they ever get here) and new plugs will fix the dtc's. The idle problem is slightly better after adjusting the idle screw. I also capped the intake for the breather hoses, and am going to replace those just in case. The po had a box of parts, including a coil pack, tps, stepper, maf, coolant sensor, map?, crank sensor, etc.. he just gave me, starting to think this has been a issue for some time. Either way a 2k idle sucks!
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  #16  
Old 04-27-2008, 09:53 AM
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on my DII i changed the MAF and the car ran like s**t. Black clouds behind. Tried to disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, but no change.

Was going to take her to the dealer for a reset of the ECU but when i took a week. During that time I accidentaly left some light on and drained the battery. After rechargeing she ran beutifuly. No black smoke.

This lead me to beleave that there is some sort of reset when the batteries are disconnected for a time.
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  #17  
Old 04-27-2008, 01:10 PM
a2tripp
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going wheelin later today, maybe that will fix her
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  #18  
Old 04-27-2008, 01:33 PM
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wheeling your truck with the crank case open is not too smart.
do you have the ability test your fuel press?
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I was thinking you could just run a long bolt through the place where jate rings would mount and attach a loop of good chain to it, one link under the head of the bolt with washers, and one link under the nut side with washers, kind of like a jate ring, but a loop instead.
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  #19  
Old 04-27-2008, 09:52 PM
a2tripp
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replaced breather, as soon as the weather breaks I will be changin the fuel filter, probally could do a pressure check after that. You thinkin an injector?
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  #20  
Old 04-27-2008, 10:00 PM
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what ever its your truck
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I was thinking you could just run a long bolt through the place where jate rings would mount and attach a loop of good chain to it, one link under the head of the bolt with washers, and one link under the nut side with washers, kind of like a jate ring, but a loop instead.
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  #21  
Old 04-29-2008, 11:46 PM
flyingasics
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When I did a transmission service it said in the manual to reset the adaptive valves. When I talked to the guy at the local rover shop he said that aside from using their expensive ass computers that you could drive the car for a a mile or two while staying around 30 mph and that would do it..
I'm sure this is just another wives tale, but I never "reset" the adaptive valves after my transmission service and I have been fine since. Then again it seems like you have alot of other things that could be causing these problems with your truck
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  #22  
Old 04-30-2008, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingasics
When I did a transmission service it said in the manual to reset the adaptive valves. When I talked to the guy at the local rover shop he said that aside from using their expensive ass computers that you could drive the car for a a mile or two while staying around 30 mph and that would do it..
I'm sure this is just another wives tale, but I never "reset" the adaptive valves after my transmission service and I have been fine since. Then again it seems like you have alot of other things that could be causing these problems with your truck
The adaptive values are constantly being adjusted. Driving various drive cycles will make adjustments to the adaptive values, but resetting them to zero is (to the best of my knowledge) only able to be done via the OBD-II port.

Resetting to factory presets allows you to bypass any bad habit the engine has learned due to wear, local environmental factors, fuel and driving habits.
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Dominic Perodeau and John Monaghan are thieves.

I'm still in the parts and engine building business-my service activities are being reduced, not my interest in serving the Rover community

I am easily contacted via text message to 260-804-0458 or pt@ptschram.com. PMs are least reliable
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  #23  
Old 04-30-2008, 03:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillTN
I was under the impression that you need testbook, autologic, or rovacom to do it.
X2
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  #24  
Old 05-01-2008, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillTN
Different size motor?

I was under the impression that you need testbook, autologic, or rovacom to do it.
that is correct. I looked into it you have to do it this way, no shortcut that I could find.
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  #25  
Old 05-02-2008, 12:46 AM
a2tripp
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so can this be done without the ecu in the disco? or are these rovalogicbooks obdII ? none of these shops here have those. Is this a common solution to high idle issues? Would it be easier to look for an used ecu? do you need rovalogicbook for an ecu swap? someone told me that a jerry-jug of fuel and a match would fix my woes. Anyhow, thanks for the info.... this site has been my best diagnostic tool yet, and it doesn't cost five grand.
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