Ok, so a little follow up here that will hopefully help some one else.
First a little history. Wiring issues and adding gauges to my '95 300TDI (truck started life as a base model 3.9 5spd) D1. The PO had added a Pyrometer, Boost and a temp gauge that was not wired in, also he added an electric fan and some KC day lighter lights. There was an intermittent smell of "I am going to burn the fuck down at some point". The gauge install wasn't terrible, but it wasn't real neat either.
So I dove in to fix/add a temp switch to the electric fan, it had been running on a toggle switch alone. When I got into the under dash wiring, what did my eyes behold. Why, burned up wiring, of course. Turned out that the cruise control power wire coming from fuse 18 had shorted in the rotary coupler on the steering column. Then I decided to make all the add on gauges uniform, so I got VDO Boost, Pyro, temp, volt, and oil pressure. Then it was game on, ended up abandoning the down stream wiring from F18, getting the gauges wired, adding temp control to the fan, fixing the power mirrors, rear wipe/wash and demisters. Moral of the story, the MFU on the back of the fuse panel is crap. After spending a great deal of time reading RAVE, printing pages etc, I have come to the conclusion that RAVE is one of the shittiest electrical service manuals I have ever used. And I say this as a former aviation electrician, and current commercial industrial HVAC tech. Finally, I would like to meet the electrical engineer that thinks it is OK to run 4 parallel circuits of 20 gauge wire from a 10 amp fuse. The carrying capacity if 20 gauge wire is about 8 amps.
So if you have any cruise control/rear wipe&wash/rear demister/power mirror questions I am your man.