Bluetooth in a Stock D1 Radio?

https://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=81277&highlight=ipod

Search function is your friend

Buy a Multi-USB car charger - http://www.amazon.com/Charger-iPhon...6&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=usb+car+charger&psc=1

Buy a USB Powered Blue Tooth Adapter -
http://www.amazon.com/CyberTech-BriteLink-Bluetooth-Technology-Headphone/dp/B00ED5SRWG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463095475&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+bluetooth+audio+receiver

Get Tape Adapter -
http://www.amazon.com/RCA-AH600R-Car-Cassette-Adapter/dp/B000BUN79K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1463095531&sr=1-4&keywords=cassette+adapter

Hook it all up. Sure, you can just plug tape adapter into phone as well, but I don't like to have too keep messing with cables and have my phone ring through the speakers like it is a headset. I mount my phone using air vent adapter anyway, so it is not like the dash and radio area is cable free.

Works great and actually sounds good - I am not audiophile either, but it does sound better than FM Radio.

Tom

Anyone know what bit I need to remove the factory D1 tape deck?
I want to splice the wires right from the harness instead of downstream cutting into the big cable and hoping I don't screw it up.
Thanks!

p m said:

I always used a small flathead screwdriver - don't ever remember what was the proper bit.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll take a look.
Don't feel like buying a special tool for it.
It's like a 5 sided allen key or something odd.

I have been able to use an allen key being careful not to 'round out' the female side on the radio.

p m said:

What a recipe for a cluster%^&*...
Working cassette adapters for LR head unit are few and far between. They only work as long as the head unit likes them - which it may decide against.
USB-powered BT receivers - depending on which one you get, you'll have to fish it from the crevices of your truck to pair with your phone/player; I had three, all of them lost pairing and had to be physically accessed to pair again.

How is that concoction saves one from a mess of tangled wires - escapes me.

Click to expand...

I was gointg to hack a regular cassette adaptor "Kipkay style" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxXS3OdJUqg

but then I found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Casset...keywords=ION+Audio+Cassette+adaptor+Bluetooth

Good luck, those cassette players are fragile.

I've got a BT with AVRCP prototype design, but my pc board fab shop is taking a lot longer this time around

robertf said:

Good luck, those cassette players are fragile.

I've got a BT with AVRCP prototype design, but my pc board fab shop is taking a lot longer this time around

Click to expand...

This thing worked great, on the left side, the Head unit does not want to read the right side, I tried the cassette in other radios, and it works great.

not quite yet. had to move to SMD chips for bluetooth and my reflow oven has some assembly required.

The PCB version of the wired aux turned out great, so I know the bulk of the circuit design should work. Native BMW Hirschmann 14 pin and Range Rover 13 DIN connector too

Here's a peek at the business side

p m said:

Nah, I just picked pricey transformers for ground isolation - found that's the only way to deal with ham radio output. Not all inputs need them - just those with the other ground connection to the vehicle (which includes phone with a battery charger running).
I don't doubt your engineering - just want more of it!

BTW... You really don't need reed relays anymore.
$3 at Newark: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2032575.pdf

buck sixty at Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/205/CPC1125N-748435.pdf

Click to expand...

Finally got around to throwing a test design together. I'm not sure if those SSRs will work, they have a high forward current that I think will wipe out most of the audio signal, but I'm going to give them a shot anyway before probably going to a smaller, cheaper, more modern audio switch with zero crossing, negative swing, etc. Would have done so initially but I have to get over my fear of QFN chip packages.

Those transformers worked well for me, but there is a ton of attenuation below 150hz. I've gone to a ROHM ground isolator op amp that pioneer actually used in earlier m-bus changers. Haven't done actual THD testing yet, but the lissajous patterns look great across the spectrum compared to the transformers.

Also changed up the power supply to a switcher then a LDO linear supply for filtration partially to improve efficiency, but mostly keep it from dumping 1 watt of heat into the case.

Finally have some free time to work on this

The chinese xs3868 is a piece of crap, redesigning it with a real microchip bm64 module

Since it'll have a few extra io pins and bluetooth serial capability I'm throwing in a feature I've been toying with. I'll probably be the only one to ever use it, but the 3 pin mini din connector goes to the 14cux diagnostic plug and it emulates an elm327 device so torque or whatever other bluetooth obd2 apps will be able to connect to it.

Still need to finalized the mic preamp circuit and maybe an audio preamp if testing shows the signal is too low.

So itll have aux in with player controls like the old version, microphone through the aux for voice commands and dialing and stuff, along with all of that through bluetooth. Going to throw in a circuit that auto detects ctia vs omtp so it'll be android and ios freindly since I'm not sure how that standards battle will end since CTIA was winning before Apple gave up on the 3.5mm jack. And a ton of circuitry to keep ground loops away

hope to order boards by the end of the month.

Shown with disco/95rrc rectangular 13 pin connector, rrc round 13 pin DIN connector, and bmw hirschmann connector all stacked up together, but only 1 will fit during assembly

robertf said:

So itll have aux in with player controls like the old version, microphone through the aux for voice commands and dialing and stuff, along with all of that through bluetooth. Going to throw in a circuit that auto detects ctia vs omtp so it'll be android and ios freindly since I'm not sure how that standards battle will end since CTIA was winning before Apple gave up on the 3.5mm jack. And a ton of circuitry to keep ground loops away

Click to expand...

that's beautiful.