Disco 1 price curve

Blue said:

This is spot on!

I?d love to have a minty D1 in stock form to cruise around in. I?ve been thinking of getting a stocker Southwest no-ruster and stashing it away, only driving it on Sundays in the driveway with my main man Raymond. It will be worth a pretty penny one day (10 years? 20?). For some reason I picture it being bright red with armor-all on the cute little stocker Michelins. Beige interior. Tape deck. But the truth is that buying a second Disco gas hog to tool around in is pretty stupid. The only real justification would be to stash it away.

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One thing I've observed about Rovers in general is that they do not like to sit or be puttered around town using only a third of the tach. You've got to get them out and give the things a good "Italian Tune-Up" every now and again. They love it. The harder you drive, the happier they are.

Cheers,

Kennith

my 96 d1 5 speed sold for 12.5k some weeks back

was in no rush to sell, the right buyer found me
had plenty of offers in the 8-10k range

my only regret is i didnt post it on bat

Heh. When/if I sell my '67 Impala it might go on BAT.

I suspect it will reach a similar price to that at a live auction, without all the extra costs.

The only problem is people aren't as pressured to bid. Depending upon the day and promotion, live auctions can bring absolutely pointless money.

People just get stupid in the heat of the moment when put on the spot like that.

So, it'll either be BAT or an international live auction.

Going to have some fun with it first, though. Maybe I'll keep the thing. It's almost where I want it to be.

Cheers,

Kennith

One thing I've observed about Rovers in general is that they do not like to sit or be puttered around town using only a third of the tach. You've got to get them out and give the things a good "Italian Tune-Up" every now and again. They love it. The harder you drive, the happier they are.

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Agreed, yet, sometimes the situation just doesn?t support it. Do you want a rusted out Rover from driving on insanely salted roads or give that Italian tune-up when conditions permit?

In general though know what you mean.

Wonder how many younger folks even know what an Italian tune up is.

I rev my D2 out several times per week. My neck hurts just thinking about the lightning quick acceleration. It's actually not too bad given all the extra weight from steel bumpers, sliders, winch, etc. and the 285/75/16 tires. Plus it just plain sounds great with the Borla exhaust and Mantec snorkel sucking air right above the driver's window.

Concur with the Italian tune up.

When I was daily driving 2 miles each way my fuel trims shot up, mpg went even more to shit, etc.

It was someone here who told me to manually shift it and keep revs up.

AbnMike said:

Concur with the Italian tune up.

When I was daily driving 2 miles each way my fuel trims shot up, mpg went even more to shit, etc.

It was someone here who told me to manually shift it and keep revs up.

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Might have been me.

I've been putting that out there for well over a decade now, because it's important and true, but not a conclusion most are likely to reach. It seems counter-intuitive, but it's not exactly unprecedented. The practice was more common in the past.

Many engines like it, but proper Buick engines love it. You've got to get her hot and make her scream.

Cheers,

Kennith

Blueboy said:

Agreed, yet, sometimes the situation just doesn?t support it. Do you want a rusted out Rover from driving on insanely salted roads or give that Italian tune-up when conditions permit?

In general though know what you mean.

Wonder how many younger folks even know what an Italian tune up is.

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Yeah, you've just got to get under there and scrub that shit off, in the end.

I was very obsessive about it, and now I'm trying to catch back up after my own D2 sat for a while. If you keep the frame clean, it damned near won't rust; but hosing it off isn't enough. You actually have to wash it.

That's one of the reasons I don't enjoy mud. It makes a huge mess and some varieties are quite prone to holding onto water and contaminants that get hungry when they see metal. Not all, but enough.

Cheers,

Kennith

Blue said:

I rev my D2 out several times per week. My neck hurts just thinking about the lightning quick acceleration. It's actually not too bad given all the extra weight from steel bumpers, sliders, winch, etc. and the 285/75/16 tires. Plus it just plain sounds great with the Borla exhaust and Mantec snorkel sucking air right above the driver's window.

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Semi-solid engine mounts will really change how it comes off the line, and improve your control off-pavement dramatically. The factory stuff ought to be considered a "down-grade". Mine are the QT mounts, and they absolutely transform the vehicle.

The D2 isn't as slow as people think, but that's only because people don't really push them.

It's not fast by any measure that's relevant today, but I ran mine against a '92 Roadmaster with a factory-spec LT1 and worked transmission to find us nearly neck and neck at the end of the strip. That said, he'd run out of reserve, but I was still accelerating.

Don't quite remember the times precisely, but I believe that day I was hitting 60 in just over 8 seconds and trapping around 17.

With the rack, around 420 pounds of wheels and tires, the bumper, winch, and even with the armor attached (but no cargo) it'll hit 100mph without any trouble at all.

Strangely, while it pulls to that number with relative ease, it just fucking stops right there. You ain't gonna get even a single mile per hour after that. Not 105, not 101... You get 100mph and that's all. It gives you all that sound and fury up to 100, and then it just tells you to fuck yourself all of a sudden. :rofl:

The top speed of the vehicle in stock form is precisely 120mph. It's limited to that speed, but I can tell you it wouldn't go any faster even without the limiter. 110 is about the highest speed you're likely to reach before running out of road.

Now, in stock form acceleration is a bit less than "surprising", but the way it builds speed is intoxicating. It's spread all over the tach like butter. It just keeps pulling and pulling and pulling, and to me feels kind of like an aircraft taking off. Someone else has said that in the car, as well.

Firm up those engine mounts, though, and it will indeed whip your head back a bit off the line. I knew the factory mounts were quite pliable and large, but I didn't know they were that bad. They really suck the life right out of a Rover; new or not.

Soon as I dropped those QT units in, I determined the factory mounts were the worst decision Land Rover made on the vehicle; and it only took six inches of movement to reach that conclusion.

Really makes me wonder what I could do with a transmission job (I don't remember the part numbers, but valve body kits were available, and may still be) and/or one of those Compu-Shift gadgets... Been wanting one for a while, but I wasn't driving the vehicle. It's back on the old wish list now.

Cheers,

Kennith

I will have to check out the QT engine mounts. I used to routinely hit 100 mph and still have room for more but I have images of exploding rubber in my mind. I have meant to bring this up here on DW: I recently developed a trans case leak for the second time and had to have the case resealed again. My independent mechanic (very trusted local Rover only mech) thinks that I’m running too fast and all the extra weight that I have is making the case work too hard, heat up, and bake the seals. He laughed his ass off when I said I was cruising at 90 to 100 on the way back from SoCal in January. He suggested 75 mph max. I decided to monitor the case fluid and change at about 10-12K Miles next time (it was 27k between changes last time...I let it slip).

Blue said:

He laughed his ass off when I said I was cruising at 90 to 100 on the way back from SoCal in January. He suggested 75 mph max.

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I drive my nearly stock Disco at 60mph on interstate 90, even in the 70mph zone. I keep right and stay out of the way. I didn't buy a Land Rover to get places quickly.

Behind the wheel of an Audi A6, however, look out. I'll break 100 before I even notice it.

Blue said:

I will have to check out the QT engine mounts. I used to routinely hit 100 mph and still have room for more but I have images of exploding rubber in my mind. I have meant to bring this up here on DW: I recently developed a trans case leak for the second time and had to have the case resealed again. My independent mechanic (very trusted local Rover only mech) thinks that I?m running too fast and all the extra weight that I have is making the case work too hard, heat up, and bake the seals. He laughed his ass off when I said I was cruising at 90 to 100 on the way back from SoCal in January. He suggested 75 mph max. I decided to monitor the case fluid and change at about 10-12K Miles next time (it was 27k between changes last time...I let it slip).

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I'm sure he's a good mechanic, but he's incorrect. Vibrations would get to them before heat ever would, anyway; and that doesn't happen unless there's already a problem. The vehicle simply can't go fast enough to damage it's drive-line.

It's rather like a Toyota HiLux or my old Nissan/Datsun 720; they don't weigh enough to break. Put a compact, lightweight body and bed on a frame strong enough to underpin a modern F-250, and you can bounce it around like a basketball if you want without a problem.

Regardless, if high speed was going to cause such an issue, I'd have gone through a whole crate of seals by now...

Yeah, you should check out those mounts. It's the best upgrade you'll ever fit; certainly the one that will put a smile on your face most often.

Cheers,

Kennith

how often do you change your tcase oil?

discostew said:

The 3 most common t case leaks are the input seal, and the 2 o rings on the counter shaft.

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That's exactly where I leak.

Might try giving it some penicillin

Blue said:

how often do you change your tcase oil?

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It depends on what I've been doing, but the maximum interval allowed in my own service procedure is 20,000 miles on-road, and 5,000 miles off; adding whatever distance is required to get to a place where it can be done, with exceptions for those times it may have been exposed to water or contaminant ingress.

I treat it a bit like a differential, in that regard. There's more to it than how long the fluid will lubricate.

Edit: As for alternative intervals, I prefer two years on-road, and two months off. Put that with the miles, and take whichever comes sooner if you don't end up changing it for some other reason.

Cheers,

Kennith

kennith said:

my own service procedure is 20,000 miles on-road, and 5,000 miles off;

Edit: As for alternative intervals, I prefer two years on-road, and two months off. Put that with the miles, and take whichever comes sooner if you don't end up changing it for some other reason.

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Who drives 5,000 miles off road in 2 years, let alone 2 months? That's practically the length of Africa. Mines/fleet vehicles and people who are driving across Africa are the among the narrow subset of users who would meet your criteria. Even if you went off-roading every weekend and drove 50 miles on trails per trip, it would take you 2 years to reach 5,000 miles, at which point you'd hit your service time interval for on-road driving.

I'm not suggesting that 5,000 miles is an inappropriate service interval for changing TC/diff fluids (on a trans-Africa trip it might not be low enough), but let's be honest: how many Rover owners here drive 5,000 miles off road within a 2 or 3-year span? Do you? Some might, but they are outliers who are fortunate enough to have that kind of leisure time or drive for professional reasons. For almost all ownership demographics, a time interval or on-road distance interval is a more useful metric.

Tugela said:

Who drives 5,000 miles off road in 2 years, let alone 2 months? That's practically the length of Africa. Mines/fleet vehicles and people who are driving across Africa are the among the narrow subset of users who would meet your criteria. Even if you went off-roading every weekend and drove 50 miles on trails per trip, it would take you 2 years to reach 5,000 miles, at which point you'd hit your service time interval for on-road driving.

I'm not suggesting that 5,000 miles is an inappropriate service interval for changing TC/diff fluids (on a trans-Africa trip it might not be low enough), but let's be honest: how many Rover owners here drive 5,000 miles off road within a 2 or 3-year span? Do you? Some might, but they are outliers who are fortunate enough to have that kind of leisure time or drive for professional reasons. For almost all ownership demographics, a time interval or on-road distance interval is a more useful metric.

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Well, I typed a reply and accidentally lost it.

Whatever. Not typing it again. Your post is in concert with my typical use of vehicles off-pavement in the past.

Those things are precisely what I've used my DII and other vehicles to accomplish.

I probably hit trails few enough times per year to count them without using your toes. Most of my local enjoyment of such things results in simply parking on a beach and taking a nap.

Cheers,

Kennith