5spd in a DII?

roverover

Well-known member
Feb 27, 2005
3,819
28
68
Lancaster PA
www.UsedLandRoverParts.com
The question I would have is why?

There was an ECU issue with the L8 one If you have a reason to do this I would get everything connected to the trani electrical and mechanical from a breaker in Holland or some place that has LHD manual V8 D2s
 

ankeneering

Active member
Apr 21, 2017
41
3
wyoming
its a lot of damn work. If you can source the r380 and parts from an overseas dII it helps quite a bit. the r380 for the d2 is a fair bit different than the d1 version
 

JohnnoK

Well-known member
Mar 19, 2017
190
19
Cape Town, South Africa
I'd forgotten about that thread. :p
The D2 should be easier than the P38. I sold my manual box, so the plan to do my P38 has been put on hold.
I'd get all the bits from the UK if I were you. Get a transmission with a bell housing from a breaker and send it to Ashcrofts for a rebuild. Get the transfer case while you are at it and have Ashcrofts fit the 1:1 ratio RR Classic gears for better cruise performance. If you plan on going offroad with it, then they can fit a stronger center diff as well as the diff lock mechanism if not already fitted.

Transmission mounts should be the same, but check the manual to be sure and get the cross member from the breaker if you need it and new mounts.
Get a new flywheel, master cylinder, slave cylinder and clutch/pressure plate, and a pedal assembly out of a breaker.
You will also need a clutch switch to tell the ECU when the pedal is depressed. I don't know if the BCU can be reprogrammed to a manual or if it needs to be replaced, so you will need to look into that and shop accordingly.
The engine ECU should be OK to reuse, except the power profile will give you good pull away performance because of the torque converter profile in the fueling map.
Have a good look at the parts catalogue for the flywheel-to-crank attachment, I am not sure if the manual has any spacers that you may need, you will probably need a bearing or bushing for the spigot shaft.
Then, while you are at it, fit the Hi-Lo-Diff lock lever from a D1 so you don't have to fiddle with a bodge for a diff lock selector.