DII Heater Core W/O dash Removeal - How I did It - Pic Heavy

bendts

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2015
277
18
Farmland
So this is what i came up with after i started the complete dash removal - After looking at it for a long while and calling a LR Tech to see if what i planned was OK to do...

First off remove the Glove Box, Heater Fan, Heater "Fan Box", Center Console, Dash Support brackets on passenger side - loosen drivers side.

Loosen the main Nuts/Bolts that hold the Heater Core Box to the Firewall - 2 each side (OK its been 6 months since i did this so this step may not be needed)

Have some old rags available for the remaining coolant in core and pipes.
 
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bendts

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2015
277
18
Farmland
Once that's all done this is what you see:
IMG_0202_sm1.jpg

The foam on the coolant tubes will come right off.

The Bracket that LR uses to hold the Coolant Tubes in place is what really stops this from being an "Easy" job as the clamp-Screws are put in from the back side - meaning dash removal to be able to pull out the whole heater core box - Nice.

Bracket at Firewall:

IMG_0198_sm1.jpg

Once you have all the Foam removed from the Pipes, Mark them for Position - Top or Bottom and how they fit into the heater core. Otherwise you will spend time remembering exactly how they fit back in the propper way for everything to fit back.

Pipes:
IMG_0203_sm1.jpg

A reminder - These Pipes and the Clamps that hold them to the Core are VERY SCREWUPABLE. This is very thin wall aluminum tubing and the Clamps are not much better steal. - Be Careful as they cost $120 new to replace.

Once the tubes are marked and you know you can position them back in the same position - The fun part begins...
 

bendts

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2015
277
18
Farmland
One more shot of the tubes marked:
IMG_0204_sm1.jpg

What you will need for this part is a Small Hacksaw - One of those Blade in a handle Plumbers type will work great - That's what i used - DO NOT USE A SAWS-ALL or other high powered shit. Yes i almost found out the hard way.:eek: No room for a tubing cutter either - Do it slow and you will have no problems.

And yes i did call a LR Tech to make sure this would be OK to do...

We or You are now going to CUT the Tubes - This may to much if you like your LR pure from the factory - if so continue to remove the entire dash.

Here is where I cut mine - You will want to snug the mounting nut back up to the firewall just to keep the tubes as stable as you can when cutting - ALSO cut nearest the core FIRST so that tubing movement is kept to a minimum.

IMG_0208_sm1.jpg

Once the tubes are cut at the Core and the Firewall, you will be able to remove the Core - But you will have to disconect 2 of the heater box control arms - these detach pretty easy - just remember to re-attach them.

IMG_0209_sm1.jpg

To pull out the Core you will need to also pull on the lower part of the dash to mace some room for it to slide out.

Just check again to make sure the tubes are marked on the Core as to position - You will need to re-mark this on the New Core before replacement - and you WILL want to attach the Tubes to the new Core First with the new o rings and clamps before pushing the New Core back into the heater box.
 
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bendts

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2015
277
18
Farmland
The O Rings - the LR ones are $12 - so i went to the hardware store and found this to be a exact-enough fit:

IMG_0215_sm1.jpg

I think they were $2

Once you have the tubes, o rings and clamps all attached to the new core, your ready to start re-assembly.

Youll want to insert the new core set up into the box so that you can get a good idea for the new coolant hose length for both tubes. This may take 1 or 2 tries until you feel its correct. No reason to hurry - Remember the thin tubes.

Use some liberal spit to slide the hose onto the firewall side tubes first - slide the clamps on so that they are in place.

Then as you slide in the core, attach the hoses to the core side tubes.
This is mine after install:

IMG_0210_sm1.jpg

Once the new core is in re-attach your heater box control arms:

IMG_0212_sm1.jpg
 

bendts

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2015
277
18
Farmland
Make sure you have your hose clamps in a way that they wont get in the way of the Fan Box - you can see in the pics how i set mine.

Also look for any Rubbing issues - this is one i had and i put a piece of hose in to protect the wires:

IMG_0211_sm1.jpg

Hose insert;

IMG_0213_sm1.jpg

Space is very tight in this area so you don't have much room or choices.

Back together:

IMG_0214_sm1.jpg

Before you put the fan box - check and replace the foam around the edges - mine was pretty tattered - i just picked up the self stick door insulation from the hardware store - the more porous less dense type is what i used.

Then reassemble it all.

So far in 6 to 7 months i have had no issues - No Leaks and seems to heat a bit better. I was actually seeing steam coming out of the passenger side of the core when driving before i did this replacement.

Good Luck.
 
Aug 20, 2007
2,727
45
Nashville TN
This post was extermely helpful! Took me about 6 hours working on it here and there. Heat is back to normal and holding strong. Thanks for the detailed post.