I have all of them installed except for the ones just out from the top two. I can't seem to feel where they are and even when I do get them in how the hell would you torque them down? There doesn't seem to be any space, even worse than the second one up on the drivers side (damn trans cooler line!)
tips needed for bellhousing bolts
- Thread starter Sign Guy
- Start date
When I pulled my engine, I ended up using very long socket extensions and a torque wrench that barely fit behind the transmission. I think I had 4 feet of extensions going. Later, someone said to remove the engine and trans mounts and let everything rest on the frame. That is what I will do when I reinstall the new engine.
well, you could go with a stubby flex head ratcheting wrench to get to the bolt and then just make it tight by looping another close end wrench 14 or 15 mm around the open end part of the stubby. . . assuming its your rig and you dont care about torque values. . .
Have someone else guide a swivel sock (with a 36" extension) from the top. Worst case scenario you can just pull the intake and use a flex head ratcheting wrench.
I have got this down!!!
and down is the key.
when removing the engine I pull the motor mounts first and lower the engine down and the makes a big area on top to work to reach the upper 4 bolts.
then when reinstalling the engine I first mate them and climb under and install the bottom 4 bell housing bolts while its still on the engine hoist, then I lower the engine down as during removal and do the top 4 bolts.
On the RRC's the sound proofing back there can be removed by removing the plastic screw retainers and that buys you about 2" and as Chris pointed out I also remove the intake before I pull the engine and replace it after the long block is in place.
and down is the key.
when removing the engine I pull the motor mounts first and lower the engine down and the makes a big area on top to work to reach the upper 4 bolts.
then when reinstalling the engine I first mate them and climb under and install the bottom 4 bell housing bolts while its still on the engine hoist, then I lower the engine down as during removal and do the top 4 bolts.
On the RRC's the sound proofing back there can be removed by removing the plastic screw retainers and that buys you about 2" and as Chris pointed out I also remove the intake before I pull the engine and replace it after the long block is in place.
Musky - does your process eliminate the need for ridiculously long socket extensions? It seems like by doing it your way, you can get to all the bolts using a regular wrench.
yes
I use a 6" flex head ratchet with a stubby socket on the top 4
and about 6" extension on the bottom 4.
I have done this a bunch of times and it works really well
I use a 6" flex head ratchet with a stubby socket on the top 4
and about 6" extension on the bottom 4.
I have done this a bunch of times and it works really well
MUSKYMAN said:
Double ditto...it's how I did mine too. Without the mounts and the engine lowered slightly because of them gone, it makes it super easy to reach those top bolts. It's worth the extra work to remove the mounts...it will save hours of struggling and cursing and tinkering with different combos of extensions, wobblies and strange looks from your neighbors. It only takes a few minutes to get the mounts out so I didn't even consider it extra work to take them out.
Good luck!