New Cap, Rotor and wires and no start and floods out.

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
561
Seattle
Thanks, E. The truck runs, but should it be running better? Based on the amount of neglect I've found in other areas I'm assuming the previous owner didn't do anything for which I don't have a receipt. I have records for a complete engine swap but I can't tell how old the ancillaries are.

I like your new distributor idea, but I have bigger problems for now. Truck wouldn't start this morning and now wife is pissed, wants to get rid of the Rangie and keep the Disco. I went through this same problem a couple months ago and took the truck to Gord'n at Lamorna, the local Rover whiz. He diagnosed faulty fusible links. I now have a D1 fuse block replacing those things, plus a new battery, new battery cables, new plugs, new ignition coil, so I'm annoyed that the no start problem returned.

Gord'n told me moisture condenses on the plugs in wet weather, which causes the starting issue. That doesn't make sense to me - I don't see how moisture gets in there. It is often the case that when it's raining, the Range Rover won't start, so there seems to be some connection.

I'll call you. I really want to keep this truck because of the work already invested and the rarity of the model (93 Sport in Aegean blue).
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
Moisture gets under distributor caps when conditions are right. It's sweating like a can of beer. Happens when it's cold and humid outside and still warm inside the distributor. It's just going to happen. Not just a CUX problem.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
561
Seattle
Moisture gets under distributor caps when conditions are right. It's sweating like a can of beer. Happens when it's cold and humid outside and still warm inside the distributor. It's just going to happen. Not just a CUX problem.

OK, that makes sense. This is my 2nd RRC I've owned in Seattle and I never had this issue on the first one. This is still a cool and rainy place in the winter.

Is there a way to mitigate this short of running a hairdryer over the distributor or waiting to drive the truck until July?
 

4Runner

Well-known member
May 24, 2007
660
110
Boise Idaho
X2 on the Pertronix witha stock coil. Have that on the wife’s 94 and after 5 yrs. north of Seattle , I never had a problem. The wiring on a Classic is SO much worse then Discos. I would also check the resistor( 6.7ohms if I remember right ) that comes off the coil and is a signal beck to your ECU. Your truck won’t start without that connection being good. Good luck. Hope it all works out.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
Replacing it with one of those might be a good idea. I put a couple in from TRW. The one in that last post looks more original. Get rid of the Lucas one.
 

p m

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Apr 19, 2004
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Not 100% related - but I installed Pertronix Ignitor in the distributor of an old Wagoneer, set the "ballpark" timing by turning distributor counterclockwise, and the engine started on the first try (once there was fuel in the carb) and ran beautifully. I might consider the full Pertronix distributor for one of the Classics.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
561
Seattle
OK, after a couple dry days the truck started up no problem. I think it might be time to replace the distributor of unknown age with a Pertronix. Any recommendations for a decent vacuum gauge?
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
561
Seattle
Thanks. I took a look in the engine bay today and the distributor that is in there looks like this model with the two prong box on the side (seen on the right in this photo):

s-l500.jpg

(above photo is Pertronix part # 175520)

The part referenced in this thread is for the 175510, which has a pair of wires coming out the side instead:
s-l500.jpg


How do I figure out which part to order? I can call Pertronix on Monday to get their input. I should go take a closer look at what's in there now.
 

XCELLER8

Well-known member
Sep 21, 2009
249
12
either will work, the d175510 also eliminates the amplifier module .....only 2 wires to be concerned with.....black to the neg side of the coil, and red to the (+) ....time it .....drive away.....
the 175520 uses a side mounted amp module just like the stock one....
the only other thing I would suggest is to use a pertronix coil....just cuz they should know what works with their products......I cant remember which part # coil I bought but I can check in the am..
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,927
201
Lake Villa, IL
either will work, the d175510 also eliminates the amplifier module .....only 2 wires to be concerned with.....black to the neg side of the coil, and red to the (+) ....time it .....drive away.....
the 175520 uses a side mounted amp module just like the stock one....
the only other thing I would suggest is to use a pertronix coil....just cuz they should know what works with their products......I cant remember which part # coil I bought but I can check in the am..

What kind of Ohm resistance are we looking for in a Pertronix Coil?
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
561
Seattle
To resolve my question on this thread, I purchased Pertronix distributor #175520 and coil #40011. Had some expert help on installation and setting timing. It has been two weeks and the engine starts immediately every time regardless of ambient conditions and it runs well. So far it appears to be a success.