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  #1  
Old 12-22-2004, 12:38 AM
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jymmiejamz jymmiejamz is offline
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i have recently been inform by landrover that i need a new radiator on my 2000 discoII becuase mine is leaking. i also have a coolant leak from the intake gasket. i was wondering how difficult it is to install a new radiator and if i would be able to do it myself. this is a job i would be willing to spend alot of time on since landrover is going to charge me over $500 for a new radiator plus installation. any help/advise would be greatly appreciated! or if anyone in my area (midlothian/richmond, virginia) would want to help out i think i could spare a few bucks for you.

i have no idea at all about radiators so if i sound like an idiot, sorry in advance.
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  #2  
Old 12-22-2004, 09:24 AM
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ptschram ptschram is offline
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The radiator shouldn't be too difficult for you to do yourself.

Replacing the intake gasket on a motronics engine is not as easy as on a lucas or GEMS engine, but not that bad.
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  #3  
Old 12-22-2004, 09:29 AM
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I've done the radiator (recently), would agree with PT. The radiator is pretty easy, I did it without removing the fan or the AT and oil coolers. It was tight, but if you're careful, it's not bad. Takes more time to remove all the "fixings" than anything else. Bleeding the system after refill was a snap too.
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:54 PM
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Windycity_Rover Windycity_Rover is offline
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I just did a new radiator on my 2001 DII. Depending on how many miles you have consider changing all the hoses since your in there. The main question you'll have is which radiator. Regardless of you VIN# you have to determine if you have Air Injection. Check to see if (1) There is a brass type plug-in sensor by your lower hose (2) Do you have steel lines running in the heads by the spark plugs? (3) Behind the throttle body is a mount for the air injection system. I had two empty mounting holes on the intake manifold. Although my VIN# states I have the air injection I didn't. That is the difference between the expensive radiator and the cheaper one. A mere sensor. Like previously posted it took more time taking the front grill and parts off than anything. I changed the radiator, hoses & serp belt for 488.00 with a new T-Stat and premix fluid. I could have saved more if I went to rover connection.com. Although Lester at Atlantic British was really helpful. As for the head gasket, Good Luck!
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  #5  
Old 12-23-2004, 01:45 AM
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thanks for all the advice everyone, but i think i will leave this up to land rover.
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  #6  
Old 12-23-2004, 07:05 AM
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Kavic Kavic is offline
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How bad is the leak? Have you checked with your local radiator repair shop, they might save you a large chunk of change. I haven't done this with a Rover but they certainly saved me alot on other units. When they are done it they are just about like new again. After all, we are only talking about a 4 year old radiator, my 10 year old unit is stilll working just fine.
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  #7  
Old 12-24-2004, 09:09 AM
Rocky Rocky is online now
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So much of the D2 radiator is plastic that repairs may not be possible LR had a real bad time with radiators in the early days of the D2. Shame yours has lasted longer.
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2006, 05:44 PM
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Sorry to revist this really old post but I ahve a questions. How hard is it to bleed the system after refill? Also I read in the Disco maual something about there being connections for gearbox and oil fluids? Is this tricky and should I expect huge runout once disconnected? Thanks.
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  #9  
Old 01-10-2006, 05:48 PM
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Chris-St Louis Chris-St Louis is offline
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Nah, Not a beg deal. Some runout but have a drip pan ready.

I havent had a d2 that wouldn't bleed from running it fill of coolant with the cap off. There are screws to remove if it doesnt bleed, I never had to yet.

It's not a big deal.
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Old 01-10-2006, 06:35 PM
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Thanks Chris!
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  #11  
Old 01-10-2006, 06:48 PM
bshinn
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Took me 3hrs w/o removing the fan. Could have cut that by 1/2 hr by removing it, also the couplings for the A/T cooler were a PITA. shoot them w/ some carb cleaner to remove the gunk & they R&R much easier. Get the book or RAVE disk & go for it.
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  #12  
Old 01-10-2006, 06:50 PM
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BTW,

2yrs ago the non-injection rad was $180.00 from AB. I've been told they now cost ~$500.00.
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  #13  
Old 01-10-2006, 08:27 PM
frickjp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bshinn
BTW,

2yrs ago the non-injection rad was $180.00 from AB. I've been told they now cost ~$500.00.
2yrs ago 4 litre short blocks were $600.
2 mos ago starters were $150.

Things change. Try being the poor soul who put off the radiator replacement, then finally comes in to have it done, only to find a $400 price increase.
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  #14  
Old 01-10-2006, 10:10 PM
Qudoba
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I just pulled and had the radiator rebuilt at a local radiator shop that was recomended by the local independent rover shop in Colorado Springs. The rediator is from a series 1 .The radiator was leaking from both sides and about 75 percent pluged. The shop owner charged me 175 for the rebuild with a 6 month warrenty and to top it all off if he would of done all of the work it would have only cost me an additional 75 dollars. Next time ill let him do the pull.
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  #15  
Old 01-11-2006, 09:00 AM
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purple98tj purple98tj is offline
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Don't remove the tranny and oil cooler lines! You can get the radiator out by removing the battery box and air box. A friend of mine works at the local LR dealer and that's how they do it. Getting at the bolts on the front of the radiator are a pain but in the long run it's better than removing the trans and oil lines. The oil and tranny cooler lines popped off while I was driving (just around the corner from my house). I had to wrestle with them for an hour or so to make sure they connected properly.
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  #16  
Old 01-11-2006, 12:12 PM
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Hey Jerry - can you give me the name of that shop that did your repair? Thanks!
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