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  #76  
Old 10-18-2018, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue View Post
Not sure I like the idea of wrapping duct tape around the steel drum...
Fine, use electrical tape. Seriously though, what's the problem??
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No matter how hard you stir it you won't make chocolate ice cream out of a bucket of shit
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Old 10-18-2018, 07:05 PM
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Melting
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  #78  
Old 10-18-2018, 07:56 PM
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The tape is only keeping the pigtail in place, nothing else. Don't use duct tape, use elec tape or painters tape. If your brake is outside the drum like on the EPI 9.0 mentioned, it won't melt.
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  #79  
Old 10-18-2018, 09:26 PM
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Well then I am all set!
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  #80  
Old 10-20-2018, 12:06 PM
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Why not a zip tie?
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  #81  
Old 10-26-2018, 04:35 PM
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All the vehicles we've used for training over the last 10+ years, we used gorilla or duct take. Never used the set screw, but laid a section of line parallel to the drum, held some sections of tape and spun the winch in. Friction is all that needs to hold the line on anyhow. The brakes are on the outside, not the drum, so no issues with heat.
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  #82  
Old 10-26-2018, 10:01 PM
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I thought of you last night....
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  #83  
Old 10-27-2018, 11:37 AM
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Still thinking of you. Watch for some packages in the mail from me.
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  #84  
Old 11-29-2018, 12:04 AM
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Garrett, get off your ass and read this thread. I went to a lot of trouble while I was on vacation in Delray to make fun of you. Actually I see you are on the beach in baja Mexico. Selfish asshole.
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  #85  
Old 11-29-2018, 05:20 PM
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So I finally got around to winding my Custom Splice 7/16" synthetic line on my winch. Weeks ago I installed the Hawse fairlead and had to get new hardware to fit the Hawse (roller fairlead bolt heads were too big). Then the shiny new parts made the sun-beaten black grade 8 bolts holding on my recovery points look shitty, and the nuts on the backside of the bumper were pretty corroded. So I grade 8'd all that hardware.

Then I realized that I had to roll the sharp-edged aluminum lip on the lower front clip cross brace beneath and in front of the radiator - my Superwinch is mounted almost flush up against this aluminium piece. I had to notch it to fit the Superwinch and rolled the area between the notches where the wire rope was wound. The outer layer of the wire still rubbed a bit on the rolled edge but that was OK. Can't have the synthetic rope rubbing though. So anyway, wound on the line and it clears OK, the last wrap with the abrasion sleeve barely touches the rolled aluminum lip in a couple spots. I also filed down any potentially sharp edges.

So I get wound up and go to put on my simple Clevis hook from the original Superwinch 3/8" wire rope and it doesn't fit over the tube thimble on the new rope. So I have to get a new hook.

Any recommendations?

The tube thimble is 5/8" to 3/4" thick and my old hook only has 1/2" of clearance. My rope breaking strength is 22,000 lbs so that's my base rating for a hook.

Any opinions on this one (I'm not crazy about either color offering...yellow or red):

Anzio Half-Link Clevis Safety Latch Swivel Winch Hook (28,000 lbs, Yellow)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ORF3M29M&psc=1
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Last edited by Blue; 11-29-2018 at 05:40 PM.
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  #86  
Old 11-29-2018, 07:23 PM
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This one worked for me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LOKBEA

I'll measure the opening tonight.
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  #87  
Old 11-29-2018, 10:59 PM
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Thanks man!
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  #88  
Old 11-30-2018, 01:22 AM
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Will this work?
clevishook.png
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  #89  
Old 11-30-2018, 03:29 AM
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McMaster-Carr has a nice selection. I got a black-epoxy coated one. https://www.mcmaster.com/rope-hooks
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  #90  
Old 11-30-2018, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERover82 View Post
Will this work?
Attachment 58311
That'll be close, will have to get out the digital calipers.
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Last edited by Blue; 11-30-2018 at 06:21 PM.
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  #91  
Old 11-30-2018, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERover82 View Post
Will this work?
Attachment 58311
Here's what I'm working with....tube thimble thickness is 0.60" so it should fit in the 0.65" width of the hook you posted. Only 0.05" to spare which is about 1.25 mm.

Tube thimble depth is about 0.5" (the rope is compressible so measurement can vary). But we don't want the rope to rub on the hook. The depth measurement on your hook is 0.7" so there is 0.2" or 5 mm to spare.

Can I ask how exact you were with your measurements?

I also see that they have the same hook just a bit larger (1/2 vs. the 7/16 you posted). I would assume that the dimensions of the 1/2 are a bit bigger.

I've also checked out the McMaster-Carr link that BarryO posted. They have some options but you're pushing $200 to get up over 22K pounds capacity.
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  #92  
Old 11-30-2018, 06:36 PM
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Actually forget all that, I just found this hook and ordered it. 35,000 lb capacity.
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  #93  
Old 11-30-2018, 06:49 PM
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I'll be curious to see if you feel the move has been worth it.

I use my winch for utility purposes a lot, so steel has typically been a better idea for me, but at this point I don't like messing with that sort of thing unless I have to. I really want to lighten that front end, and it comes down to counting ounces when you've got all that steel up there.

Funny thing is, I designed a better bumper that's much lighter, but I still like the Trek unit I've got. It just sticks out a bit farther than it needs to, and I fucking forgot to weigh the thing.

I'll be having it adjusted soon to flush it up a bit, and I'll have a chance to see what it weighs. My design should be about 80-90lbs bare, but I'm expecting a bit more weight out of the Trek bumper.

At this point I don't remember how hard it was to lift. Couldn't have been too bad, though.

Moving to synthetic line, and eventually getting all the batteries back in the rear could help make a big difference. I'd have to get another winch or drum, though, as I don't think synthetic would like my drum after all that use.

I think lighter stuff is available now, anyway. The 9.0RC is something I considered a while back. Once I get the thing back in the condition it deserves, I'll be more interested in picking something up.

Cheers,

Kennith
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  #94  
Old 11-30-2018, 07:12 PM
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To be honest, I'm not concerned at all about the weight. I have my 100' of 3/8" cable in a box and I can weigh it but I didn't bother to weigh the rope. The rope is 80' of 7/16" and it only weighs a few pounds, like picking up a jacket. I really wanted to get rid of the roller fairlead and I like the idea of winching with rope much more than wire, especially if I'm going to teach my sons how to winch. Other than all that reasoning, it's also just something to do with my toy truck.

Anybody need a Superwinch neoprene winch cover that fits the EP 9.0 & Rock 95; Talon 9.5, 12.5, & Rock 98; Tiger Shark 9500 & 11500; LP Series 8500 & 10000; and X9? My winch is tucked in there too tight for the winch cover to be of any practical use. Takes too damn long to snug the cover on there. But damn, it is a nice cover.

I also have my 100' of 3/8" wire rope that is in much better condition than I had thought, I have my original clevis hook, and my original roller fairlead. A little smoothing out and the fairlead rollers would be fine.
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  #95  
Old 11-30-2018, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue View Post
To be honest, I'm not concerned at all about the weight. I have my 100' of 3/8" cable in a box and I can weigh it but I didn't bother to weigh the rope. The rope is 80' of 7/16" and it only weighs a few pounds, like picking up a jacket. I really wanted to get rid of the roller fairlead and I like the idea of winching with rope much more than wire, especially if I'm going to teach my sons how to winch. Other than all that reasoning, it's also just something to do with my toy truck.

Anybody need a Superwinch neoprene winch cover that fits the EP 9.0 & Rock 95; Talon 9.5, 12.5, & Rock 98; Tiger Shark 9500 & 11500; LP Series 8500 & 10000; and X9? My winch is tucked in there too tight for the winch cover to be of any practical use. Takes too damn long to snug the cover on there. But damn, it is a nice cover.

I also have my 100' of 3/8" wire rope that is in much better condition than I had thought, I have my original clevis hook, and my original roller fairlead. A little smoothing out and the fairlead rollers would be fine.
I'll take that cover! It'll go nice on my Viking GS-9(EP-9).
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No matter how hard you stir it you won't make chocolate ice cream out of a bucket of shit
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  #96  
Old 12-01-2018, 12:27 AM
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I'll take that cover! It'll go nice on my Viking GS-9(EP-9).
You got it. I'll take a pic of it tomorrow and determine if I can stuff it into a USPS small flat-rate box. How does $14 shipped sound? I paid a whopping $14 delivered for it off of Amazon. I love to hate Amazon....or do I hate to love Amazon?
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  #97  
Old 12-01-2018, 12:29 AM
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Also, you sure you have enough room around your winch front/sides/back to work the cover over and on? It's a snug fit - it's wetsuit material after all. It also has a draw string around the bottom.
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  #98  
Old 12-03-2018, 01:24 PM
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In case you change directions, the measurements were accurately taken with calipers, but I'm not sure how dimensionally consistent the forging is.
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  #99  
Old 12-03-2018, 02:02 PM
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I'm running, well ran, a Gunnebo style hook on my 3/8" synthetic line with the same style thimble. I had originally just used a shackle, but I decided to go with a hook after I had to winch about 1000ft up a muddy ravine. With that many resets a hook would have been really nice!!!
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'98 D1 Trail Rig. Lockers and whatnot. Retired
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'95 D1 Project Truck.
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Quote:
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No matter how hard you stir it you won't make chocolate ice cream out of a bucket of shit
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Old 12-03-2018, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
I'm running, well ran, a Gunnebo style hook on my 3/8" synthetic line with the same style thimble. I had originally just used a shackle, but I decided to go with a hook after I had to winch about 1000ft up a muddy ravine. With that many resets a hook would have been really nice!!!
That latch looks stout. I like it. Most are flimsy.
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