DiscoWeb Message Boards
 

Go Back   DiscoWeb Message Boards > DiscoWeb Technical Boards > Discovery - Technical Discussions

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #26  
Old 09-06-2017, 09:19 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Quote:
Originally Posted by p m View Post
Food for thought.
Regardless of the lockers - if you bust a stock ring or pinion gear, a gear set or a complete third member is at most a day away in most CONUS.
If something happens to a non-stock gear set, you'll be waiting for a while.
Yeah, good point. I really don't want to mess with the axles right now until I've experienced a reason why I should change them

Having some fun breaking down this case. So far I need a bearing puller, press, and sized sockets. Even if this case hadn't been damaged during shipment, it needed work anyway. I found the detent ball floating in the front housing and no spring or set screw...

I found a new case, from Will Tillery, only 48k miles that will be here soon
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1492.jpg (205.0 KB, 53 views)
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 09-06-2017, 09:41 PM
robertf robertf is online now
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 3,782
Member Trucks
The didnt deburr any interior edges of these. Be careful when picking up a torn down case. I cut the crap out of my hand doing so, then took the deburr knife to it
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 09-06-2017, 10:41 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Thanks for the tip

Boy an electric impact makes quick work of those flange nuts. So satisfying. Torquing them back on will be another matter.... And wow those 3 studs for the rear output housing were TIGHT. With loctite. My 780 foot pound impact stuttered the whole way.

Robert, what not-so-common tools have you needed to do your rebuild? Have you fabbed any?
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 09-06-2017, 10:42 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Side question, the '04 SLABS unit arrived today. Can I install it now? Any adverse effects? I want to make sure it works and isn't programmed for SLS
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 09-07-2017, 12:37 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Any thoughts on fitting the Ashcroft ATB center diff? http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...-atb-diff.html
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old 09-07-2017, 04:04 PM
Mongo's Avatar
Mongo Mongo is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,731
your experiencing why you need taller gears in the diffs...you don't need the ATB, or any other crazy mod's and mostly have a issue with your transmission, did it ever drink any water
__________________
01 D2 (history) RuffStuff housings ARB/Detroit, custom radius arms/ 4 link rear, 14" Bling/ADS shocks 37" Creepy's, Ashcroft Under Drive, X-Brake, PSC hydro steering, Hellfire Hi Steer Knuckles... all under a buggy now...

1983 RHD 110 Pick-up
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 09-07-2017, 05:21 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongo View Post
your experiencing why you need taller gears in the diffs...you don't need the ATB, or any other crazy mod's and mostly have a issue with your transmission, did it ever drink any water
Not that I know of. I recently extended the diff breathers... diffs, tcase, and transmission all have 6mm tubing then they are joined into a single 8mm tube that I stuck in my snorkel. I honestly can't remember if the problem was the same before since after the engine rebuild I immediately towed a trailer 1200 miles so expected it to be sluggish anyway.

I did a fluid change on the transmission shortly after buying it. 1000 miles later another fluid change and replaced the filter. Color was good... slightly dark red
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 09-11-2017, 06:48 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
@ robert, what sealant do you use for gasketing? Or do you use the paper ones? Manual calls for Hylomar 3400 which is very expensive and only available across the pond

I can't decide between

Permatex Gear Oil RTV https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-gasket-maker/
Permatex Anaerobic https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-gasket-maker/
Permatex Anaerobic https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...lange-sealant/
What ashcroft sells (RTV) http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...e-sealant.html
Or paper gaskets

Leaning towards the Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker as its non-setting. Bit wary of RTV bits getting all up in the gears
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 09-11-2017, 09:08 PM
jims95 jims95 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Upland, California
Posts: 203
I have used the following as an equivalent to Hylomar;

Permatex PermaShield™ Fuel
Resistant Gasket Dressing &
Flange Sealant

P.S. If you compare the Technical Data Sheets for both products, you will see the characteristics and material color are the same.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 09-14-2017, 08:06 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Quote:
Originally Posted by jims95 View Post
I have used the following as an equivalent to Hylomar;

Permatex PermaShield? Fuel
Resistant Gasket Dressing &
Flange Sealant

P.S. If you compare the Technical Data Sheets for both products, you will see the characteristics and material color are the same.
Bit obscure, but does seem to fit the bill. I got the hylosil 100 from ashcroft, and while it's a silicon setting sealant.... heck if its good enough for Ashcroft It's probably good enough for me.

teardown of the bum case is going well. only thing I am hung up on at the moment is pressing a bearing off the differential shaft... the one opposite of the differential housing. Jaw puller won't fit. Going to order a bearing splitter/separator, but I still have doubts of it being able to grab anything as the hi-gear is so close. I read somewhere you can just press the shaft out, but I tried that and its not moving.

edit: spoke too soon. Pressed out easily with a little change in setup
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1522.jpg (198.4 KB, 49 views)

Last edited by Jeff Blake; 09-14-2017 at 09:18 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 09-23-2017, 11:07 AM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Any opinions on the wear in this diff carrier? The copper thrust washers were in good shape (the other case I tore down, the washers were all disintegrated). You can feel the grooves with a fingernail. Unfortunately this part is about $1,000 new.

Some of the sides are more worn than others. I'm fitting new gears, HD cross pin, new washers.

Seriously considering going with the Ashcroft ATB diff as an alternative...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1596.jpg (182.7 KB, 44 views)

Last edited by Jeff Blake; 09-23-2017 at 12:07 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 09-23-2017, 12:57 PM
Mongo's Avatar
Mongo Mongo is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,731
Unless you're going to see a shitload sand or ice, the ATB isn't going to buy anything. The wear is typical, but not bad per-say and if the thrust washer aren't toast, run it...
__________________
01 D2 (history) RuffStuff housings ARB/Detroit, custom radius arms/ 4 link rear, 14" Bling/ADS shocks 37" Creepy's, Ashcroft Under Drive, X-Brake, PSC hydro steering, Hellfire Hi Steer Knuckles... all under a buggy now...

1983 RHD 110 Pick-up
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 09-23-2017, 02:03 PM
robertf robertf is online now
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 3,782
Member Trucks
I dont remember any grooves on mine. I did put new thrust washers in it and had to actually use a thinner than stock shim on one side to get the correct torque preload

Mines still not done. As for tools, I have a good collection of gear pullers and seal drivers along with random sizes of round bar so pressing things together is no problem.

I will need to make a tool to tighten the carrier nut. Ive aquired a bunch of spindle retaining nut sockets over the years and one of the 4 prong sockets I think for a dana 60 or 14 bolt or some other full size turd will work if I remove 2 of the 4 teeth.

This one Im rebuilding because the backlash sounds terrible in low range. Its a 5 speed, I hear they all do that but its gotten bad over the years

Id love to put the ashcroft diff in my auto truck. It has its moments, not often, when itll break a 35" tire free on dry pavement
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 09-23-2017, 02:23 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongo View Post
Unless you're going to see a shitload sand or ice, the ATB isn't going to buy anything. The wear is typical, but not bad per-say and if the thrust washer aren't toast, run it...
Well, it would buy me a new, unworn part that costs less than the original and has an improved design. I'm going to inspect the shaft and the rest of the carrier first to see if I have any problems there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf View Post
I dont remember any grooves on mine. I did put new thrust washers in it and had to actually use a thinner than stock shim on one side to get the correct torque preload

Mines still not done. As for tools, I have a good collection of gear pullers and seal drivers along with random sizes of round bar so pressing things together is no problem.

I will need to make a tool to tighten the carrier nut. Ive aquired a bunch of spindle retaining nut sockets over the years and one of the 4 prong sockets I think for a dana 60 or 14 bolt or some other full size turd will work if I remove 2 of the 4 teeth.

This one Im rebuilding because the backlash sounds terrible in low range. Its a 5 speed, I hear they all do that but its gotten bad over the years

Id love to put the ashcroft diff in my auto truck. It has its moments, not often, when itll break a 35" tire free on dry pavement
Thanks. I got the special nut from ashcroft.
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 09-26-2017, 06:06 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
I'm making videos of my work so I don't forget how anything works. That, plus bag+tag all related parts!
Part 1 - teardown: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HUCLtuHiS8

More videos coming later.

Part 2 will be a detailed teardown of the differential, bearings and races, etc.
Reply With Quote
  #41  
Old 09-27-2017, 08:01 AM
WaltNYC's Avatar
WaltNYC WaltNYC is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: NYC
Posts: 347
Member Trucks
Nicely done Jeff!
__________________
1997 Discovery I SE - 148k miles

RAVE in pdf:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...FdyX1VQMS1iN00
Discovery I exploded parts diagrams....
http://www.allbrit.de/NAV.cfm?SPRACHE=EN&PAGE=491338
Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 09-27-2017, 08:14 PM
p m p m is offline
AK6PM
Administrator
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: La Jolla, CA
Posts: 13,875
Jeff, it would be awesome if you made a write-up with pictures (besides the YouTube video) and posted it here.
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 09-27-2017, 11:46 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Quote:
Originally Posted by p m View Post
Jeff, it would be awesome if you made a write-up with pictures (besides the YouTube video) and posted it here.
Happily!

Here's part 2, completing the teardown: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFrz...ature=youtu.be

Next up, inspection of components and an overview of the new components I'll be fitting (high range gear, intermediate gear cluster, input gear, and of course all new bearings, races and seals)
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 03-25-2018, 01:14 AM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Kicking this project back up again... cleaned some parts today, lots more to clean tomorrow. Hopefully will get the rebuild under way shortly. Really looking forward to 1.41 gears and CDL

Weapons of choice:

CRC gasket remover (this stuff is gold)
Engine degrease aerosol
brake cleaner
Plastic chisel, plastic razor scraper, brass brushes, plastic worm brushes for bolt holes, etc

Tedious, time consuming work.

Don't use simple green or purple power, it seems to do weird things to aluminum.

And of course the rover lent a hand with onboard hot pressurized water
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 6OL1BgSkTDeRr11CZHmZSg.jpg (204.8 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg NmZQM32wRUGXk6c6m1PkSA.jpg (214.6 KB, 49 views)
File Type: jpg WR+pHW0%RCWozKHtf3ny8A.jpg (160.1 KB, 47 views)
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old 05-01-2018, 01:38 AM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
What is normal play on the hi-lo selector hub fitted to the dog teeth of the low or high gear? When fitted, I'm getting about 2-3mm of rotational play on a brand new high-gear. And 1mm of side to side play. It also has a small chip on the outer sleeve

Ashcroft sells new hi/lo hubs for about $120 shipped, which is a lot, but everywhere else the cheapest I can find is like $400+
Attached Images
File Type: jpg O6EFX6I%RKOkE5ToUF1JZA.jpg (133.5 KB, 26 views)
Reply With Quote
  #46  
Old 05-16-2018, 06:17 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Diff rebuilt

Honestly it's pretty straightforward and I got lazy, so I bagged making the videos.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg s7czEuuxQjyA2iDKWENFSQ.jpg (147.2 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg CF3YnNKlTYCc+vpouJIn%A.jpg (150.6 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg 8A3EiKmkT+OchECKDB8rIg.jpg (117.2 KB, 18 views)
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 05-17-2018, 04:39 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Center diff shimming

I found the official tool on ebay pretty cheap, so I bought it. Sure as hell beats knocking the bearing race in and out a bunch of times to figure out the preload

Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3z0cFpR6b0
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 87aiCj6kQGunXS3ww++9+A.jpg (196.3 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg GrHDduLzSJCBeWAX%c%UPA.jpg (199.4 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg BlohEapSQCy5iCtQxm2ZdQ.jpg (202.5 KB, 14 views)
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 05-20-2018, 02:11 AM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific Beach, San Diego
Posts: 227
Crickets in here haha

Basically done with the rebuild. Just need to get a CDL shifter so I can use the brackets and mount the hi-low and diff lock housing.

I spent quite a bit of time experimenting with the diff lock engagement. I found one big concern...

- The front switch with only one washer was causing the dog clutch to get intermittently stuck open and/or locked, and even worse it would get "partially locked", i.e. diffs are locked, but the clutch was only ~25% engaged onto the front output shaft. There is no actual part number for the washer (??), and the manual says to "caution: ensure washer is same thickness as original." Well my case didn't have switches so I couldn't compare. The switches for the hi-low and neutral detect are the same design, so I used that washer. I ended up doubling up on washers for the front switch as you can see in this video:

Diff lock demonstration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1HR5ff7QNQ

I'm still worried that if I engage diff lock, and the lamps go on, but the dog clutch is only partially engaged, leading to possible damage. There's no way to know if the diff lock is fully engaged without pulling the side cover and looking at the selector fork.

Paging anyone who can shed some light on that...

Some more notes...
- with diff lock switched on, you are not necessarily in diff lock yet. The lever only pulls the spring. So if the dog clutch isn't lined up with the output shaft, you won't be locked yet. I noticed that the center diff gears need to rotate a bit sometimes in order for the spring to find the teeth and move the fork over. In practical terms, you need to steer the car left or right a bit in order to work the center diff gears. Driving straight won't work like it does for the hi-low.

edit - correction - my case from Will had all the switches, but NONE of them worked. Imagine the odds...? 2 diff lock switches, neutral switch, and hi-low switch. Latter two being very expensive little buggers
Attached Images
File Type: jpg T8G8mn8GRGCYi+WHIGfmgA.jpg (151.9 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg n6qpqybqS8CJImfKLI01pQ.jpg (152.7 KB, 9 views)
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old 05-20-2018, 10:09 AM
Agent's Avatar
Agent Agent is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: WV
Posts: 626
Excellent and informative posts! Thanks for taking the time to post it up for us all to learn from.
__________________
'00 DII (Rutland Red)
'99 DII (Kinversand Orange) Sold, but still on the road.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Lt230 Transfer Case $185 RoverDude Parts Wanted 1 10-16-2008 07:51 PM
Transfer Case Lt230 WILL.TILLERY Parts For Sale 4 10-02-2005 08:47 PM
Lt230 transfer case for sale draaronr Parts For Sale 8 02-01-2005 02:55 PM
DI LT230 transfer case RoverGrrl Parts Wanted 4 12-11-2004 05:35 PM
Professionally Rebuilt LT230 Transfer Case WLDKGDM Parts For Sale 2 09-22-2004 06:05 PM

» Log in
User Name Not a member yet?
Register Now!
Password
» Today's Birthdays
John Hatch (52)
bleedgreen (37)
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:57 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 2000 - 2015, DiscoWeb.org. All rights reserved.

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.