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Old 05-24-2018, 05:51 PM
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Which 20W50 oil do you guys recommend?
Just got a D2 1999 V8 with 150K, it's running fine. I used to use 15W40 Rotella on my last D2 V8 7 years ago, but would like a recommendation for a 20W50 oil and Which brand? Since the D2 will be in living in the carribean it will be in warm weather only.
Thinking Castrol GTX High Milage 20W50 or regular Castrol 20W50?
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:07 PM
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This is one of the most discussed topic in the Rover Universe, along with tires and suspension lifts. You can ask 20 people and get at least that many different answers. There's a lot of information on this topic if you search prior posts - maybe too much.

My local indie Rover mechanic who's been working on these trucks for 30 years exclusively uses SwepCo 306 oil on account of it having a higher zinc content. His advice to me was to avoid using synthetic in these engines. I was curious about the performance, so I've used the SwepCo in the last few oil changes in both my trucks. They seem to be happy with it. This is not a bargain, but since I drive less than 8,000 miles per year cost isn't a big factor.
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:12 PM
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This: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C43BR2G
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Old 05-24-2018, 07:32 PM
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6 years 100,000 Km on Shell Rotella T5 5W-40, changed at every 5000 Km.

I was impressed at how clean the engine was.
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:06 PM
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I can confirm that I don't.
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  #6  
Old 05-24-2018, 10:27 PM
Jeff Blake Jeff Blake is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERover82 View Post
5w50 is an appealing weight.... 15w40 seems a bit heavy cold, and a bit too viscous hot. But that stuff is so expensive... I like to change my oil pretty often

I run rotella 15w40 dino, like many do. It's cheap, readily available anywhere, and has high zinc content.

20w50 would be too heavy cold in my opinion, even in the south
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Old 05-25-2018, 09:39 AM
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Good Ol Castrol 20w50 is what I recommend in all the engines i build and use in all my 4.0 and 4.6 motors. Definitely no synthetics and definitely not to light of an oil.

Here is my reasoning. These engines even new and reman are not tight tolerance motors. Bearing clearances are nothing like specs in newer designed motors. 20w50 is reasonably thick oil, this is an "old" designed pushrod motor from late 60s early 70s and not to much has changed. Synthetic oils are very thin and have very little cushion for lifters, pushrods, rockers... in these old engines so definitely dont recommend them. 5w30 and 10w30 are really thin and are great in higher revving engines. Remember these barely turn 4000 rpms under normal use.

So with that all said, I like my 20w50 and would say at the least a 10w40 in these for different climate zones. Remember it is all about lubrication and oil pressure.

There is a bit more to this but thats my .02
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Old 05-25-2018, 06:13 PM
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I would not use 20W50 in NYC in winter, probably not even 15W40.
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Old 05-25-2018, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p m View Post
I would not use 20W50 in NYC in winter, probably not even 15W40.
I just put Rotella 15W40 in today, its about 30C / 87F in NYC today. But the 20W50 is for the caribean coldest temp is 18C / 65F and highest 37C / 100F.
Dave
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Old 05-25-2018, 07:26 PM
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Synthetic oil is not thinner. It is exactly the viscosity that is measured and listed in its TDS, and summarized on the bottle as 15w-40, 10w-30, 5w-50, etc.

It's like saying exercise is bad for you because you never bothered before and now you're old and fat.
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERover82 View Post
Synthetic oil is not thinner. It is exactly the viscosity that is measured and listed in its TDS, and summarized on the bottle as 15w-40, 10w-30, 5w-50, etc.

It's like saying exercise is bad for you because you never bothered before and now you're old and fat.
My bad for saying it. I was talking at the molecular structure and how it is formed. Not that the oil is actually thinner in viscosity.
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Old 05-26-2018, 08:34 PM
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I'm debating going to 15w-40 for summer. I tried the Mobil-1 0w-40 this past winter because of the higher zinc content. I've had the truck for 18 years and 108k miles, used Mobil-1 for the past 15 years and she runs great still, no ticking. She does leak though. I don't put many miles on it anymore, change oil twice a year regardless, once in the spring and once in the fall.
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Old 05-27-2018, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by special ed View Post
My bad for saying it. I was talking at the molecular structure and how it is formed. Not that the oil is actually thinner in viscosity.
This is true. Even though the viscosity is the same it will find a way to leak when conventional oil wont. A good example of this is the front drive axle on late '90 early 2000 era GM trucks. They put out a TSB that said in cold climates the gear oil should be changed to full synthetic because the lubrication qualities in super cold weather (-25F).But before you did that you had to change out the axle seals and the vent. Because the synthetic would leak out the original seal.

I think as far as the oil brand goes. If it has the ASE starburst symbol on it it should be fine. Everyone has a personal favorite. I prefer Castrol because it's a high detergent oil. I also like to use the same oil in an engine once I start using it. Just so I know who to blame. Same way I buy all my gas from the same place.
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:05 AM
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When I picked up my block from the shop, the owner said to use this oil, or similar...
Joe,Gibbs driven racing oil/hot rod oil.
Said it is the type of oil these engines need for the lifter design. has high zinc. I think valvoline racing and Lucas also are fine for the zinc.


When I asked about synthetic oils he cringed. Not until after 25000+ miles on the high zinc oil if ever. new non zinc oils are fine for the newer engines but not for these older designed heads.
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Old 05-27-2018, 12:19 PM
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5w50 is the ideal viscosity according to the owners manual, it covers all temp ranges.
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Old 05-27-2018, 02:05 PM
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If you want to learn about oil.

https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?t=54420
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Last edited by jhmover; 05-27-2018 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 05-28-2018, 10:26 AM
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Valvoline VR1 is cheap readily available and has zinc. Diesels oils have been neutered to meet emission requirements and protect emissions equipment. That's the bottom line, zinc/zddp is what protects the lifters and cam
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:33 AM
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i bought my '96 about 10 years ago at 140,000 miles. it now has 240,000 miles and is still driven everyday. i have used Schaeffer synthetic 5W40 since my first oil change.

i know. completely anecdotal and YMMV.
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
That's the bottom line, zinc/zddp is what protects the lifters and cam
Weird, I thought it was the oil shear rating and zinc/zddp was just an additive to make up for low shear?
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:08 PM
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For the summer I use Castrol GTX 20w50 with 1/3 bottle of Redline break-in oil to boost the zddp. My motor has 450 000 km
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  #21  
Old 05-30-2018, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jymmiejamz View Post
5w50 is the ideal viscosity according to the owners manual, it covers all temp ranges.
I have some recollection of being scolded in some other thread when I said "do what the manual says".
My point being the people who designed the product knowing better than the keyboard pounders.
I used a Mobil 1 product in my '05 RR; the manual said some specific A3/B3 or something, and the Mobil 1 0W-something was the only (readily available) oil that met the spec.
But wtf do I know, I just did what the manual said.
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Old 05-30-2018, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-St Louis View Post
However, the best short rule of thumb (at least as I see it) is a sheer rating of at least 3.5 and meets A3/B3, A3/B4 or C3 for Rover engines.
The Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w-50 oil I linked to is A3 rated and has a sheer rating of 4.1.

http://lubriimport.com.gt/sites/defa...5w-50.pdf?dl=1

For new or rebuilt engines up to about 20k mi, use conventional with a break-in additive. Synthetic will not break in properly.
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Old 05-30-2018, 12:15 PM
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A couple more options..

Mobil 1 FS X2 5W-50
A3 rated with 4.4 sheer rating

Pennzoil Platinum Racing 10w-60
A3 rated with 5.4 sheer rating
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Old 05-30-2018, 12:26 PM
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I'm going to let everyone in on a big secret, but please don't tell anyone else. It doesn't matter that much what oil you use in these engines. Plenty of people have had their vehicles serviced at Land Rover dealerships and independent shops following the factory interval of 7,500 miles and using standard 5w30 oil. Most engines never have any issues. Plenty of these engines have been replaced in and out of warranty and were filled up with 5w30 oil, and driven straight out of the bay and never had an issue. Sure, some oils are better than others, but it doesn't matter that much.
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Old 05-30-2018, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
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Sure, some oils are better than others, but it doesn't matter that much.
If I just put stickers for racing oil on my vehicle, can I stop changing the oil at all?
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