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a2tripp
Guest
looking for clarification on steps needed to reset ecu's adaptive settings on a 96 discovery. Will disconnecting the battery work?
ptschram
Well-known member
No, disconnecting the battery will not work. Some OBD-II scanners will do it, otherwise, you'll need the Rover-specific computer and the function to do it is located in the Petrol EMS section.
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a2tripp
Guest
thanks for your reply, is there no way to do this without a computer? I am in a very remote location and the local garage here says that they can't do it.
ptschram
Well-known member
I've never tried this but I remember something about disconnecting both battery cables & touching them together to discharge the capacitors in the ECM, "resetting" it.
Probably an old wives tale, but it's free & can't hurt anything.
Probably an old wives tale, but it's free & can't hurt anything.
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a2tripp
Guest
disconnecting a battery for 8 hours and contacting the terminal on a 96 disco is a myth, it does not work. there is no land rover dealer within 600 miles, what kind of of scan tool that a independent garage would have would be able to reset the adaptive values?
Different size motor?
I was under the impression that you need testbook, autologic, or rovacom to do it. But I'm guessing DEC can do it along with others.
I was under the impression that you need testbook, autologic, or rovacom to do it. But I'm guessing DEC can do it along with others.
group captain mandrake said:
that is a "hard reset". Hold the cables together for 10 seconds.
Don't know if it works on a D1 though. Try it and see.
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a2tripp
Guest
trying to solve a high idle issue, I have ruled it down to ecm i think, I was hoping that that I could flash the ecm to see if that helps.
long story is the I have a rough idle/ stall issue going on since I bought this under-maintained 96 5spd. I idle about 2k sometimes jumps to 1.5K, 600 or stalls. Does this warm or hot. checked hoses, new stepper, swapped tps, seafoam, plugs, and more jank that i cant remember, all with no change. I have searched posts and followed the the electrical diagrams and they all seem to point to the ecm. I know that the po screwed around with the idle screw, I think thats the cause of my stall, but i cant figure out the high idle. Theres nowhere to take it, and pretty soon I am going to lose the clutch. So theres my need to flash the ecm. Im not sure of anything though, so any help would be great.
Also I get codes for misfire on #4, replaced the plug, the pold one reeked like fuel, and you can definately here it in the tailpipe. maybe that will help
...I wonder how many words that post was
thanks
long story is the I have a rough idle/ stall issue going on since I bought this under-maintained 96 5spd. I idle about 2k sometimes jumps to 1.5K, 600 or stalls. Does this warm or hot. checked hoses, new stepper, swapped tps, seafoam, plugs, and more jank that i cant remember, all with no change. I have searched posts and followed the the electrical diagrams and they all seem to point to the ecm. I know that the po screwed around with the idle screw, I think thats the cause of my stall, but i cant figure out the high idle. Theres nowhere to take it, and pretty soon I am going to lose the clutch. So theres my need to flash the ecm. Im not sure of anything though, so any help would be great.
Also I get codes for misfire on #4, replaced the plug, the pold one reeked like fuel, and you can definately here it in the tailpipe. maybe that will help
...I wonder how many words that post was
thanks
group captain mandrake said:
Sorry I was not clear! Your assumption of my assumption is correct.
#4 fuel injector sounds like it is leaky or a ignition bad wire
if the po messed witht hte base idle try to reset that
you may have an air leak as well
ptschram
Well-known member
KyleT said:
The only reason listed in the factory documentation to connect both battery cables together is to discharge the capacitors in the SRS ECU.
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a2tripp
Guest
yeah putting the cables didnt do a thing, worth a try though, im going to do a compression check to #4, i also need to replace my fuel filter too, hopefully that and the new mag wires (if they ever get here) and new plugs will fix the dtc's. The idle problem is slightly better after adjusting the idle screw. I also capped the intake for the breather hoses, and am going to replace those just in case. The po had a box of parts, including a coil pack, tps, stepper, maf, coolant sensor, map?, crank sensor, etc.. he just gave me, starting to think this has been a issue for some time. Either way a 2k idle sucks!
on my DII i changed the MAF and the car ran like s**t. Black clouds behind. Tried to disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, but no change.
Was going to take her to the dealer for a reset of the ECU but when i took a week. During that time I accidentaly left some light on and drained the battery. After rechargeing she ran beutifuly. No black smoke.
This lead me to beleave that there is some sort of reset when the batteries are disconnected for a time.
Was going to take her to the dealer for a reset of the ECU but when i took a week. During that time I accidentaly left some light on and drained the battery. After rechargeing she ran beutifuly. No black smoke.
This lead me to beleave that there is some sort of reset when the batteries are disconnected for a time.
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a2tripp
Guest
wheeling your truck with the crank case open is not too smart.
do you have the ability test your fuel press?
do you have the ability test your fuel press?
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a2tripp
Guest
replaced breather, as soon as the weather breaks I will be changin the fuel filter, probally could do a pressure check after that. You thinkin an injector?