ABS - Get Rid of It?

bendts

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2015
277
18
Farmland
Has anyone removed the ABS Pump/Valve Block and put in some simple Junction Blocks after the Master Cylinder for the front and rear. Its a real pain to do a complete system bleed without a computer device and 80 miles from the nearest shop i'd trust.

I figured without the Pump, anyone could just do a pressure bleed anywhere if needed and have real brakes without having to go to a dealer.

Just an idea while waiting for parts.
 

jim-00-4.6

Well-known member
Sep 30, 2005
2,037
6
61
Genesee, CO USA
Has anyone removed the ABS Pump/Valve Block and put in some simple Junction Blocks after the Master Cylinder for the front and rear. Its a real pain to do a complete system bleed without a computer device and 80 miles from the nearest shop i'd trust.

I figured without the Pump, anyone could just do a pressure bleed anywhere if needed and have real brakes without having to go to a dealer.

Just an idea while waiting for parts.

How often do you have to do a full system bleed?
every 2 years?
Removing the ABS system seems ill-advised to avoid such an infrequent event.
Aside from all the other issues such an action would cause.
 

Va_Disco

Well-known member
Dec 22, 2014
106
6
Hampton Roads, Va.
There is a write up on Dweb (I think) somewhere about how to do this. I recall reading it not to long ago. If your brakes all work properly (aside from not liking to bleed the ABS Block) you shouldn't have a problem with removing the ABS Block and either installing new lines to the proportioning valve or figuring out how to cobble it together with Tees (I wouldn't recommend the Tees)
 

Dave03S

Well-known member
Jun 22, 2012
62
2
Seattle, Wa
In the absence of a scan tool to power bleed the ABS there is an alternate method... Bleed brakes like any normal car, your pedal will still be soft... Shift your T-case to low range and activate the HDC... speed up enough to let the HDC slow you back down... do this a few times and then bleed normally again. Do this in a quiet area without traffic as you will be in the way... Ideally a parking lot with a slight slope.
 

SGaynor

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2006
7,148
162
52
Bristol, TN
All a computer does to "bleed the ABS" is open the valves. You can do that by finding a large parking lot (or just a long enough, straight side street) and standing on the brakes to activate the ABS. Not a big deal. (HDC is doing the same thing)

Not to mention that when you do bleed/flush the brake fluid, air does not get into the ABS block (unless you opened up the system and the valves to air) that can't be bleed as normally done.

And even if you have your ABS out, it's still not a big deal (the air in the valves is very small) to deal with/bleed out. I've had my ABS block out and apart, did the 3 Amigos fix, put it back together, bled normally, jam on the brakes in the street, rebleed. Good to go. Also had my ABS pump/block out of a Suburban (twice). Never a problem.

Don't listen to people who tell you "You need a computer to properly bleed the brakes." They either don't know what they are talking about or are trying to get money out of you.

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rfzuW8wFpgI" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

ezzzzzzz

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2010
604
7
SE Va
D1, no problem. D2 abs delete will kill traction control and HDC along with a dash full of lights. It's superior to the early abs setup. I cheat with the power bleed in my Hawkeye but the manual approach will work too but just takes longer.
 

jlprice

Well-known member
Jul 29, 2004
45
1
Falls Church VA
A similar thread on https://forums.lr4x4.co m/topic/50920-removing-abs/

i want to remove the abs from my 300 auto and put a standard system in like i have in my other 300 auto
the reason is that when out laning the abs is always coming on even when only lightly braking at 5 mph
and the abs unit is in the way for fitting a snorkel and twin batteries
is it just the case of getting a standard system off a donor car or is more work involved

The way he words the question suggests there models without ABS in some markets (probably not after D1 though, maybe? I dunno). Anyway, if thats true, then there should be an actual LR part for that other configuration of brakes, piping manifold whatever.
 
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JUKE179r

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
761
95
Suffolkshire, UK
To power bleed the ABS module just remove the ABS relay (R10) and jump the relay sockets in the engine compartment with a Normally Open switch and wires.
Easy peasy...
80-img_e8223_d4ab74dcf609904e9967db7c4264d9f976f24f84.jpg
 

bendts

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2015
277
18
Farmland
To power bleed the ABS module just remove the ABS relay (R10) and jump the relay sockets in the engine compartment with a Normally Open switch and wires.
Easy peasy...
80-img_e8223_d4ab74dcf609904e9967db7c4264d9f976f24f84.jpg

Yup tired that - It worked once before but didn't seem to work this time when i needed it too. Bought a pressure bleeder and that seemed to work well.
 

W2TF

Member
Apr 13, 2019
16
2
Honeoye, Ny
A similar thread on https://forums.lr4x4.co m/topic/50920-removing-abs/

i want to remove the abs from my 300 auto and put a standard system in like i have in my other 300 auto
the reason is that when out laning the abs is always coming on even when only lightly braking at 5 mph
and the abs unit is in the way for fitting a snorkel and twin batteries
is it just the case of getting a standard system off a donor car or is more work involved

The way he words the question suggests there models without ABS in some markets (probably not after D1 though, maybe? I dunno). Anyway, if thats true, then there should be an actual LR part for that other configuration of brakes, piping manifold whatever.
just trying to get informed and noticed the "callsign tab" many of you use. didn't know that when I signed up, just used my callsign for un