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  #1  
Old 01-09-2019, 12:45 PM
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Best years?
How many miles is too many?
How many things are DIY items?
What special tools/computers will I need?
Dependability?
Capability to tow a D1 on trailer?

As I look to purchase a new daily driver, I am quickly realizing I could purchase a nice LR3/4, car trailer, AND used Toyota Camry for the price of a new pickup. So I'm entertaining doing just that, but I don't want to end up working on something all the time again either.
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'98 D1 Trail Rig. Lockers and whatnot. Retired
'96 D1 Daily Driver. OME lift, 235/85/16 Toyo AT's.
'95 D1 Project Truck.
'94 D1 Too good to pass up. OME lift, 265/75/16 BFG AT's, Detroit/TruTrac, etc

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  #2  
Old 01-09-2019, 01:00 PM
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Best years? On the 3's, records are more important than the specific year or mileage.
How many miles is too many? See above.
How many things are DIY items? Lots.
What special tools/computers will I need? GAP IID tool from Lucky 8.
Dependability? Very.
Capability to tow a D1 on trailer?
Like it isn't even there.
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  #3  
Old 01-09-2019, 01:23 PM
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Dependability.... Between 17k and 97k miles, one thousand-dollar tow bill for our LR4.
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  #4  
Old 01-09-2019, 01:25 PM
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If I went back, I'd look at the latest year LR3/4 in the budget, and shoot for a LUX model for the many options the wife and kids enjoy. For towing/DD/light-offroad look at LR4. For more utilitarian use, an LR3 for lack of guilt flogging it.

Both are relatively reliable, and wrenching intervals greater, but when something needs addressed it'll be more involved and expensive.

In the test drive, check for trans slip by giving it some throttle. Make sure all gears shift smoothly. If the trans hasn't been flushed every 73k, do it, and for this reason I'd be wary of any high-mileage example having not done it.

They tow well, depending on tire size, and the LR4 has more power, but braking is the key to watch. Both are heavier than modern half-ton trucks and a trailer adds to it.

GAP IID tool is worth it. Foxwell if you're cheap.

Issues personally experienced (LR3):
Interior trim bits falling apart
Coolant hose rupture
Coolant hose clamp failure
Terrain-response selector failure
Transmission failure
Minor headliner sag
Minor oil cooler hose leak
Suspension bushing wear
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  #5  
Old 01-09-2019, 02:11 PM
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I just picked up a damaged RRS project at scrap price, so this is relevant to my interests...

Transflush, do you just do the remove the cooler hose method then pump in a couple quarts, pump out a couple quarts till it's red again?
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  #6  
Old 01-09-2019, 02:22 PM
Howski Howski is online now
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Have had mine 6 months and it’s been great. Night and day compared to the older Discos. Only issue was the alternator crapped out. Would agree in getting something well maintained with records and has had some of the common issues addressed (i.e. control arms, compressor, trans service).
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  #7  
Old 01-09-2019, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkytoe69 View Post
I just picked up a damaged RRS project at scrap price, so this is relevant to my interests...

Transflush, do you just do the remove the cooler hose method then pump in a couple quarts, pump out a couple quarts till it's red again?
No, it's a pain in the ass. If I remember, the sump cover and filter are one unit. They have to be removed and replaced, but the exhaust and/or cross-member needs to be removed first (can't remember exactly), the fill port is located in an awkward location next to the exhaust, and the fill level is dependent upon temperature so you need a diagnostic device to read it and fill right when temp is in the temp fill window, and let's remember the fill port is next to the exhaust. Make an equipped shop do it.

Last edited by ERover82; 01-09-2019 at 05:42 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-09-2019, 03:44 PM
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Good god.

You would think that by 2019 mankind had adequately simplified the process of pouring oil into a giant baking pan...
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  #9  
Old 01-09-2019, 04:54 PM
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My ‘05 SE V8 has served me well for the past 3 years and 20k miles. It’s up to 99k miles and the service has been minimal.
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  #10  
Old 01-09-2019, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERover82 View Post
No, it's a pain in the ass. If I remember, there's no drain, so the sump cover/filter has to be removed and replaced, but the exhaust and/or cross-member needs to be removed first (can't remember exactly), the fill port is located in an awkward location next to the exhaust, and the fill level is dependent upon temperature so you need a diagnostic device to read it and fill right when temp is in the temp fill window, and let's remember the fill port is next to the exhaust. Make an equipped shop do it.
I changed my transmission oil two nights ago in my LR3. Warm engine to drain, warm engine to refill and it shifts flawlessly. I had every intention of changing the filter but elected not to unbolt the transfer case mount.
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  #11  
Old 01-09-2019, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t42beal13t View Post
I changed my transmission oil two nights ago in my LR3. Warm engine to drain, warm engine to refill and it shifts flawlessly. I had every intention of changing the filter but elected not to unbolt the transfer case mount.
How did you drain it?
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2019, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkytoe69 View Post
How did you drain it?
There?s a drain plug that?s pretty easily accessible between the exhaust and crossmember.
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  #13  
Old 01-09-2019, 05:52 PM
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Fixed post.

That's right, there is a drain plug, but it's the filter and sump cover are one plastic piece.

t42beal13t, did you remove the exhaust or x-member? Did you have trouble filling? I found it precarious and frustrating laying on my back holding the fill hose right near the exhaust (burned several times) keeping it in that hard to access fill port at a right angle, while monitoring transmission temp on scanner.

Not sure I'd trust just warming up the engine. The trans temp is different, changes quickly, has a small fill window, and the fluid has a high thermal coefficient of expansion.
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  #14  
Old 01-09-2019, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERover82 View Post
Fixed post.

That's right, there is a drain plug, but it's the filter and sump cover are one plastic piece.

t42beal13t, did you remove the exhaust or x-member? Did you have trouble filling? I found it precarious and frustrating laying on my back holding the fill hose right near the exhaust (burned several times) keeping it in that hard to access fill port at a right angle, while monitoring transmission temp on scanner.

Not sure I'd trust just warming up the engine. The trans temp is different, changes quickly, has a small fill window, and the fluid has a high thermal coefficient of expansion.
No I didn’t remove those pieces.

Per the instructions I read, I let the truck idle for a couple minutes with the AC on blast. The filler pump I used had a clip on the end that snaps into the fill hole, similar to this.
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  #15  
Old 01-09-2019, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t42beal13t View Post
No I didn?t remove those pieces.

Per the instructions I read, I let the truck idle for a couple minutes with the AC on blast. The filler pump I used had a clip on the end that snaps into the fill hole, similar to this.
Video shows exhaust just below pan. Not sure how you got around it. Pan doesn't slide out either since it has a tall pickup tube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=eZSgQYgkNhg
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  #16  
Old 01-09-2019, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERover82 View Post
Video shows exhaust just below pan. Not sure how you got around it. Pan doesn't slide out either since it has a tall pickup tube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=eZSgQYgkNhg
I did not remove the pan. I only changed fluid.
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  #17  
Old 01-10-2019, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkytoe69 View Post
Good god.

You would think that by 2019 mankind had adequately simplified the process of pouring oil into a giant baking pan...
You would think that.
But what you SHOULD think is the manufacturer gives zero fucks about you, and is only interested in maintaining a revenue stream to their dealers.

Jaguar got rid of the oil drain plug several years ago, requiring a suction tube down the dipstick pipe to extract the oil.
Were they thinking of their customers first?

I just read an article about some stores no longer accepting cash.
Were they thinking about their customers?
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They're up early, biting shit, chasing stuff, being scary,
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  #18  
Old 01-10-2019, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
As I look to purchase a new daily driver, I am quickly realizing I could purchase a nice LR3/4, car trailer, AND used Toyota Camry for the price of a new pickup.
Do you have so much extra soul that you can own a soul-sucking camry?
You will become a shadow of a man; pale, gaunt, and ill-defined, until you eventually exist only as another automaton.
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Do sharks complain about Monday? No.
They're up early, biting shit, chasing stuff, being scary,
reminding everyone that they are a fucking shark.
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  #19  
Old 01-10-2019, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
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I just read an article about some stores no longer accepting cash.
Were they thinking about their customers?
Only really rich and really poor people carry cash, so in that case, yeah probably
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  #20  
Old 01-10-2019, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim-00-4.6 View Post
Do you have so much extra soul that you can own a soul-sucking camry?
You will become a shadow of a man; pale, gaunt, and ill-defined, until you eventually exist only as another automaton.
LOL. I don't give a shit. Well, I mean it wouldn't be my favorite thing but 40mpg would make up for it. And if I had something else for the rest of the time, whatever.
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'98 D1 Trail Rig. Lockers and whatnot. Retired
'96 D1 Daily Driver. OME lift, 235/85/16 Toyo AT's.
'95 D1 Project Truck.
'94 D1 Too good to pass up. OME lift, 265/75/16 BFG AT's, Detroit/TruTrac, etc

Quote:
Originally Posted by discostew View Post
No matter how hard you stir it you won't make chocolate ice cream out of a bucket of shit
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  #21  
Old 01-11-2019, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkytoe69 View Post
Only really old and really poor people carry cash, so in that case, yeah probably
Fixed it for ya.
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