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  #26  
Old 05-01-2018, 01:23 PM
robertf robertf is offline
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Does pertronix use the same rotor as lucas?
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  #27  
Old 05-01-2018, 01:34 PM
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Not sure, but I have a spare new Lucas rotor in my parts bin.
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  #28  
Old 05-01-2018, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tugela View Post
Not sure, but I have a spare new Lucas rotor in my parts bin.
Is this the old style or the new style? If it is new, I have had 3 of these fail due to earth ground fault through the rotor.
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  #29  
Old 05-02-2018, 11:18 AM
kk88rrc kk88rrc is offline
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The only other thing I can think of is maybe your speed transducer (VSS) is not working properly. WSM does not show a way of testing it though.
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  #30  
Old 05-02-2018, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kk88rrc View Post
The only other thing I can think of is maybe your speed transducer (VSS) is not working properly. WSM does not show a way of testing it though.
I found a good deal on a Lucas ignition amplifier and it's on the way. If that doesn't clear up the issue I'll look at the VSS. Thanks for the suggestion. Coincidentally I have one of those in my parts bin, too.
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  #31  
Old 05-02-2018, 11:18 PM
XCELLER8 XCELLER8 is offline
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is your ign amp mounted on the distributor ?, or on the coil bracket ?
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  #32  
Old 05-03-2018, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
I found a good deal on a Lucas ignition amplifier
May I ask where as would like having a spare one of these.

Thanks!
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  #33  
Old 05-03-2018, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
I have had 3 of these fail due to earth ground fault through the rotor.
what did you do to resolve this?

Thanks!
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  #34  
Old 05-03-2018, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
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May I ask where as would like having a spare one of these.

Thanks!
Atlantic British was selling them for $37 through their ebay store. Same part number as the one on their website which was nearly double the price. Maybe I should get another.
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  #35  
Old 05-22-2018, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
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what did you do to resolve this?

Thanks!
Surprisingly I was able to find a TRUE Original OEM LUCAS rotor. Beefy as can be and all edges are rounded.

I still have a back up from the JY that is my emergency. Funny thing is I have the failed 4th unit on my desk as a reminder.
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  #36  
Old 05-22-2018, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
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Atlantic British was selling them for $37 through their ebay store. Same part number as the one on their website which was nearly double the price. Maybe I should get another.
I've had two fail from AB. They warranted' both of them but that doesn't help when I'm on the road.
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  #37  
Old 06-09-2018, 06:56 PM
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Update: finally got around to replacing the ignition amplifier module. Result? No improvement. My patience is wearing thin and I'm tempted to resort to professional help.
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  #38  
Old 06-09-2018, 07:39 PM
robertf robertf is offline
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maybe check the TPS resistance for a smooth transition from open to close? If theres a problem with it when you let off the throttle maybe the ECU is interpreting it as a rapid pedal mash and dumping extra fuel just as the throttle is closing.
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  #39  
Old 06-09-2018, 08:14 PM
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I've been considering throttle issues, however after replacing the ignition amplifier module now the stumble has gotten worse and the engine struggled on my brief test drive at 15 mph with a steady throttle. In an earlier experiment I turned the throttle cable tensioner a few rotations and that improved things, but that seems like a superficial solution.


I will say that after today's session mucking about with the distributor and getting the re-installation wrong the first time, I am more familiar with the subtle dance of TDC, timing, and finessing the distributor back into position. So it was valuable as a learning experience even if the outcome was not what I wante.
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  #40  
Old 06-12-2018, 12:53 PM
kk88rrc kk88rrc is offline
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Time to check the VSS.
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  #41  
Old 06-12-2018, 01:07 PM
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Thank you, sir - happily I have a spare in my parts bin.
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  #42  
Old 06-16-2018, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kk88rrc View Post
Time to check the VSS.

Replaced the VSS. No change. Cleaned IACV. It had some carbon buildup. No change. No signs of vacuum leaks.



I must have messed up the timing somehow. It still idles okay, but under throttle is when it stumbles and bucks and has no power. I'm almost done eliminating possibilities.
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  #43  
Old 06-18-2018, 10:54 AM
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Is the air intake hose the old fabric or newer rubber version? If fabric make sure it's not collapsing on the inside.
Did you checking timing with timing light? Worth double checking your TPS.
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  #44  
Old 06-18-2018, 12:33 PM
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Air intake hose is the accordion rubber/plastic one. I did set timing using an inductive timing light, however I just realized that I set timing at idle, not at 2,000rpm. Perhaps that explains why the idle is fine and higher revs is where the stumbling appears.
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  #45  
Old 06-19-2018, 10:35 AM
kk88rrc kk88rrc is offline
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Timing is set at idle below 800rpm. I'm having issues too & double checked my yesterday. You can check that timing is advancing.
How old is fuel filter?
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  #46  
Old 06-30-2018, 01:04 PM
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Fuel filter is new.


I had a long chat with PT Schram yesterday (what other kind is there?) running through all the things I've done to address the stumbling. He was at a loss to explain what the cause could be. Without seeing it in person, his best guess was clogged cats. That theory matches with the gradual onset and worsening of the problem, the fact that it idles okay but struggles under throttle.



Before I start messing with the exhaust system I need to double check a couple other things to eliminate all the remaining engine-related possibilities, but PT's hypothesis is an interesting one. Is there any way to inspect the cats? They don't rattle - I had a broken one on my Disco and none of the sounds from that are present on the Range Rover.
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  #47  
Old 06-30-2018, 01:21 PM
robertf robertf is offline
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maybe some kind of air fitting into the o2 bung with pressure gauge and see if theres a pressure difference between the two sides.
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  #48  
Old 06-30-2018, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
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maybe some kind of air fitting into the o2 bung with pressure gauge and see if theres a pressure difference between the two sides.

Interesting idea. I think I only have upstream O2 sensors. I do need to replace the entire exhaust behind the Y-pipe so maybe I should just do the whole shebang...but first more elimination of options.
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  #49  
Old 07-04-2018, 11:38 AM
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Yes, only 2 upstream O2 sensors.

I went with a SS NRP system and never regreted it.

On the 109 I had with a 3.9 V8, ran it without cats.

The engine really ran better yet of course it was reg as a 1967.

Good luck!
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  #50  
Old 07-28-2018, 09:35 AM
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Issue resolved. It was the ignition coil.


I took the RRC to a local specialist who conducted a thorough diagnosis, most of which was encouraging.


Compression is good.
Vacuum is good.
Seals are good.
Timing was at -4 degrees, reset to -6 degrees.
My engine is in great shape.



The problem was that the Pertronix ignition coil that I installed wasn't getting along well with the other components. I had not thought to check this because it was brand new, but looking back it was the only thing I hadn't checked.


Lessons learned (or reinforced):
1. when you're replacing a lot of parts on your truck, do one at a time and test each after installation to make sure everything works as it should. It's harder to isolate a mistake or faulty/incompatible part when you change several things at once.
2. Pertronix ignition coils may not be the best match for the Lucas ignition system.
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