painting

Alexa

Well-known member
Hello-
I finally got the starter fixed and I have the truck almost completely stripped- my partner and I have been arguing about what color to paint the rover- its so hard to pick a color when there are so many out there! I tend to like crazier stuff whereas she thinks a more classic color would be appropriate- the people who had the truck before us painted it army green but its original color was red. so any suggestions to help us decide would be great!
 

Ted

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
53
0
Arizona
You certainly can go with any color you want - but for me an "old school" rover means an "old school" color. When I repainted my '65 IIa I repainted it the original marine blue. Here is a link to the series color codes if you are interested in some authenticity.

http://www.landrover.net/paint/

Cheers,

Ted
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
paint

I second what Ted has said and go with an OEM color.

Bronze green by the way was the most popular color used for Series vehicles according to a survey I saw somewhere. Could have been here, yet, don't remember.

My 109 is Marine blue and its a light blue.

They all are nice classic colors.

Many a Series owner have brushed the paint vs spray albeit I like a smooth finish so mine was sprayed.


Jaime
 

Leslie

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2004
3,473
0
52
Kingsport TN
Another vote for sticking with a traditional color. I don't mind non-traditional colors, either.... I like the newer Rover colors too.... so, you could have a Rover color, just not a period color. I've seen a sharp yellow Series though, so, maybe, if you have a particular scheme in mind, it might work.....


FWIW, I like Marine Blue, but about half of the Series I see are that color.... that's why I didn't go back w/ the original color on mine. Poppy, sand, limestone, bronze, pastel, there's some choice available if you don't want to go back to red. I like the red too, though.....



lol, some help, eh? lol.....





-L
 

Alexa

Well-known member
paint

I think you all are right- the classical colors do seem like the most practical choice although I just saw an awesome 67 painted with yellow corvette paint. Im doing the prep work myself then I will take it to be sprayed but alot of people are telling me not to strip it to completely bare metal or the paint wont stick- true or not? hmmmm.
 

David T

Member
May 2, 2004
20
0
I have restored several Series vehicles and when they were repainted I used an etch primer first and then a two pack primer/undercoat followed by the Dupont 2 pack topcoat. Great finish but needs baking/curing when finished Prior to painting the Alum . body had to be washed down with a wax/degreaser solution

I was advised that there should be about 10 to 20 mins between spraying all coats if possible as they will key together much better
 

Leslie

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2004
3,473
0
52
Kingsport TN
You can strip aluminum to bare metal, then paint it. It just takes work. Use a zinc acid wash on the bare aluminum before painting on the primer, or use a specialty etch primer like David suggested. If you just use any ol' primer on the bare aluminum, no, it's not going to do to well, but if you do it right, it's possible (I mean, it was painted in the first place, right?).


Best o' luck deciding......





-L
 

Leslie

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2004
3,473
0
52
Kingsport TN
Blueboy said:
just use a brush and paint over the existing paint! :D

lol!!!


Jaime


I don't mind an old Series, scruffy-looking, with a brush coat paint on it, beating off through the bush.


But, when you realize that it's really one of the easier vehicles to bother to paint right, and even it looks better when its wearing a fresh coat of paint, that if you're gonna take the time to fiddle on it to begin with, might as well do it right and do a decent job spraying the paint properly. You don't have to hire a professional, but, an experienced coach would be a big help.



IMHO, FWIW......



-L
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
paint

for sure Leslie. my point although somewhat sarcastic was that there are Series Rovers painted in this manner and a viable option.

as an aside, my paint is epoxy based and even after going through many narrow trails in W.PA., its pretty scratched free. so for me, decent paint keeps the 109 looking good and as important protects it.

my wife says - don't have to worry about the casket cost as it will either be the RR or the 109 you'll be in! :D


Jaime
 
L

LWBCLARK

Guest
Lesson Learned: I "got a deal" on my LWB SW a couple of years ago. The nice old lady at the British Rover shop reshot my truck a with nice coat of limestone before pickup (part of the sale). I was happy with the pretty new paint, until I sprayed it with my garden hose a year later and it started to come off in sheets. :eek: Good prep work is invaluable (and never trust an old lady who hand-rolls smokes while wearing fingerless wool gloves)! BTW Bronze Green is the way to go!

Clark
 
B

beowulf

Guest
Great link to the color references. I just wish it had thumbnails of the color. I'd love to see what "sand" and "burnt grey" looked like. :confused:
 

David Woo

Member
Aug 24, 2004
22
0
Southern Calif
those boxy lines...

Somehow, those boxy lines of a series truck just look better with the traditional colors. Modern colors look odd on a series, like a street person wearing a new coat.
I did all the disassembly and prep work on my 88", left any paint that was really tight, bought the paint (dupont single stage) and had an auto detail shop spray it for me. Cost was reasonable.
Oh yea, pastel green and had the wheels powder coated limestone.
DW
 
My 109 is a mid-blue, brushed on. I was told the color was the same as the shutters on the PO's home!

It'll likely someday be NATO green again, or maybe bronze green, or maybe poppy red.

The 88 hybrid is gonna be poppy red, or somebody's gonna kick my ass for painting her turck the wrong color.

Brush paint the stuff that isn't visible, spray the "A" surfaces.
 

David Woo

Member
Aug 24, 2004
22
0
Southern Calif
respray

Most shops were quoting $4 to $5k for a respray with two stage base coat clear coat paint.
Very few were willing to let me do the prep work. Finally found a detail shop that did some painting on the side, for their regular customers. The owner used to own a series truck and was happy to see one.
So we struck a deal and I took everything apart and sanded the pieces, did some taping and bought the paint myself. Good quality paint is not cheap, as I found out. Cost was $1500 for the shop and $500 for the paint.
DW
 
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David Woo

Member
Aug 24, 2004
22
0
Southern Calif
forgot to say...

I think it is best to spray the individual pieces, then reassemble. Less chance for drips, and they can do a better spray job when the pieces are laying flat.

Also, the next time I redo a rover, I'm going to spray the body pieces all different vintage colors, so the hood may be poppy red, the left fender pastel green, the tailgate bronze... Either look really cool or be a piece of shit :)
DW
 
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D

Dan Ratcliffe

Guest
uuuuuuuuuu limestone

Friend of mine had a sprayer, $300.00 for paint and two $50.00 Cabelas gift certificates (he had a friend help)
 

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