LWB Classic Front Wheel Hopping

gl4x4

Well-known member
Dec 17, 2010
141
0
Layton, UT
Ok, so update:

I installed the new control arm bushings and took out 1 shim on each side of the top of the swivel ball. The shaking is nearly gone. I drove it for about 30 minutes and it only happened 3 times. From 25 up to 70 mph testing. So I'm going to take one more shim out on each side and I think that will fix it until I have time to rebuild the swivel balls.

Thanks for the help.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
Cool, The swivel balls look okay. I'll see if PT has a seal kit with new races and bearings.

It has 193K on it so far, well, that's where it was before I put the engine and crap in it. So, they may be dead. Believe it or not, but I'm the second owner. I've had it for about 2.5 years now.

If the bearings look ok once you get them cleaned out enough to inspect them, just run what you got. Like p m mentioned it sounds like a swivel preload problem, but you should look for any loose parts up there. Even the steering box.And the steering shaft.

Keep in mind when your putting it back together the preload spec. is figured with no seal dragging on the swivel ball. So I bolt the swivel housing to the axle tube with the seal and plate hanging on the swivel. Then push the seal into the housing and bolt it down with the plate after I set the preload. Make sure you have an assortment of the shims. I believe they only have like 3 thicknesses so just have one or 2 of each size. In the end you probably end up taking some out and having even more than when you started. But it would suck if you needed more and didn't have them.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
Nick, he doesn't even know if that's his problem!

I'm kinda with Nick on this. I know guys do have shortcuts to setting the preload on the swivel housings. But when you do it right the truck feels freaking great. I usually end up going thru all that crap when I get a new truck. I can't argue that the whole procedure is kind of sketchy with the fish scale and all. I have a pretty good one that seems like its right in the sweet spot of how sensitive it needs to be. I think it has a max of like 8lbs. So if you have a fish scale that could weigh a 20 lb fish, it's not going to help.

The other problem I always have is getting the right swivel housing when you need to replace them. I know what the top pin has to look like for it to fit our trucks. But some other swivel housings that fit some other type of top bearing vs bushing set up always seem to show up when your trying to get them. Zach at Rovers North seems to know the difference.Land Rover parts info only shows a different part for ABS or non ABS, but that doesn't seem to be the whole story.
 

gl4x4

Well-known member
Dec 17, 2010
141
0
Layton, UT
Well, still doing the wheel hop, not nearly as bad as before. I was hoping a short-cut would fix it for a bit, looks like I'll have to order the rebuild kit. Might as well do it right, its the only thing left to rebuild on the front end.
 

Flyfish

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2004
1,402
212
52
St. Louis
Well, still doing the wheel hop, not nearly as bad as before. I was hoping a short-cut would fix it for a bit, looks like I'll have to order the rebuild kit. Might as well do it right, its the only thing left to rebuild on the front end.

Steering dampener bad??
 

aliastel

Well-known member
Sep 27, 2009
942
0
Champaign, IL
I add another vote for swivel pin preload. My 89 was doing the same and I had it fixed in 45 min by removing a couple of shims per side. With that said, there's hardly an old Rover that can't be improved by replacing the bushings throughout, if they haven't been done. Go genuine, not the poly ones.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
I add another vote for swivel pin preload. My 89 was doing the same and I had it fixed in 45 min by removing a couple of shims per side. With that said, there's hardly an old Rover that can't be improved by replacing the bushings throughout, if they haven't been done. Go genuine, not the poly ones.

What don't you like about the polly bushings?
 

gl4x4

Well-known member
Dec 17, 2010
141
0
Layton, UT
I like Poly bushings where at the axle to radius arm mounts. But I use Rubber bushings at the radius arm to frame mount. I don't have a press good enough to get those rubber bushings into the radius arms. I've used the poly bushings on a Range Rover P38 and D2. I haven't had any issues with them. They flex just fine for my needs, and my ride has not become any worse.
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
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La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
I like Poly bushings where at the axle to radius arm mounts. But I use Rubber bushings at the radius arm to frame mount. I don't have a press good enough to get those rubber bushings into the radius arms. I've used the poly bushings on a Range Rover P38 and D2. I haven't had any issues with them. They flex just fine for my needs, and my ride has not become any worse.
FWIW, a long grade 5 1/2-13 bolt, large flange nut, and a couple of sockets do wonders at the radius arms bushings. It may be harder to get the old ones out - as a last resort, you can drill out rubber between the outer bushing steel shell and the middle, and use a large screwdriver and a hammer to crush the outer shell.

The press is cheap, but the garage space is at a premium...
 

aliastel

Well-known member
Sep 27, 2009
942
0
Champaign, IL
What don't you like about the polly bushings?

The poly bushings are cheaper and easier to install, but the handling is far far better on genuine and that handling lasts far longer than poly bushings. . . Just my experience over many years and many miles of running a Rover as my daily driver.