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Old 06-03-2015, 12:18 PM   #26
KyleT
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Default Re: Knocking sound (Sliped liner?)

sounds like a liner to me. especially since a shop threw lifters at it with no fix.
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Old 01-07-2018, 05:36 PM   #27
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Default Re: Knocking sound (Sliped liner?)

I’ll go ahead and bring this back to life in regards to oil treatments. I have very similar symptoms as the OP - intermittent tick/knock (50/60% of the time) only after it’s up to temp. Ticking is mostly gone above 1,500 rpm. Oddly goes away for a few days if I take it on a highway trip so I’ve got hope it’s not a slipped liner. So the question is ATF, Rislone or other? Figure start with the oil flush and investigate rockers/lifters after that
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Old 01-08-2018, 01:50 PM   #28
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Default Re: Knocking sound (Sliped liner?)

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Originally Posted by Howski View Post
I?ll go ahead and bring this back to life in regards to oil treatments. I have very similar symptoms as the OP - intermittent tick/knock (50/60% of the time) only after it?s up to temp. Ticking is mostly gone above 1,500 rpm. Oddly goes away for a few days if I take it on a highway trip so I?ve got hope it?s not a slipped liner. So the question is ATF, Rislone or other? Figure start with the oil flush and investigate rockers/lifters after that
I'd still double check those cats. I had similar symptoms (knock once warm but smoothed out and then disappeared at 1500-2000 rpm) and it was the drivers side cat. The ceramic honeycomb breaks apart and starts to rattle.
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Old 01-08-2018, 02:34 PM   #29
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Default Re: Knocking sound (Sliped liner?)

Tried to watch your video link but it said video is private. Since the noise goes away with rpm I'd be leaning towards lifters. 20 psi is kind of on the low side for oil pressure. I'm curious if pressure goes up with rpm. What is pressure when at operating temp? Did you check it with a mechanical gauge or is that scan tool pressure? Probably not low enough to get your lifters rattling though. You could have a collapsed lifter. I've seen just the tiniest piece of foreign matter in the lifter can prevent it from pumping up. If you can shut down individual injectors with scan tool you might be able to isolate it to a cylinder. The noise may change tone doing this.

I'm not a mechanic in a can kind of guy but there are a couple additives I've good had success with.

Sea Foam will remove varnish from oil system. Might free up a lifter if it has varnish built up in it. The following stuff won't effect any ticking but it also works well in fuel system, or when properly introduced through the intake it's great for removing carbon deposits. Just follow directions on can for use in oil or fuel. Getting it through the intake can be easy or not depending on engine. First you get engine to operating temp, run it around 1200 rpm and being careful not to hydro-lock or stall the engine you slowly pour it in. One common method is through the PCV vacuum line. On older engines we would add it through the vacuum hose to the brake booster. Carburated and TBI engines are easy, just pour it through the air horn. Could probably rig up a small hose and funnel and run it through throttle plate on a multi port intake. Once it's in there the exhaust will smoke a lot, it's fine. Shut down engine, let it soak like four to 16 hours then go run it hard under load to blow out the softened carbon deposits.

AT-205 made by ATP is great for slowing down or in some cases stopping seal leaks. Add some during oil changes. I used it first time over 20 years ago on a ford 302 which are notorious for rear main seal leaks. It didn't stop it completely but the difference was significantly noticeable. I used it in a toyota 22R that was leaking at front crank seal. It completely stopped leaking. This product will not damage seals with repeated use. I've used it my personal vehicles and customers on numerous occasions successfully. Several years ago had a customers boat with twin engines, remanned 7.4 mark 4 big block GM. Boat was used for charter fishing and owner was adding oil sometimes daily. A lot of it was the rear mains leaking. You could see the oil pooled up in the transmission bell housing. We started running 25-40 and adding the AT-205 with every oil change. Owner said it didn't stop completely but it made a big difference.

I just went back and read 12 psi at idle. I'd be a little concerned about that. I don't know for sure at what psi the lifters are going to rattle but you gotta be close at 12 psi.
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Old 01-08-2018, 10:33 PM   #30
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Default Re: Knocking sound (Sliped liner?)

Sounds like rod knock to me. My 04 had it and it still ran for another 40k miles before I rebuilt an engine for it.
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Old 01-09-2018, 08:25 AM   #31
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Default Re: Knocking sound (Sliped liner?)

Just realized this thread started in 2015. For treatments, the ones I mentioned are pretty much all I use. If you're doing engine break in then traditional engine oil is best for engine break in. The synthetics don't allow enough friction during break in so things don't seat properly and oil consumption is the result. All manufacturers I deal with regularly currently recommend either traditional motor oil or a blend during break in. I just finished assembly of a remanned BBC for a ski boat. The reman company recommended a high zinc content oil for break in. There are oils out there but I just used shell rotella 10-30 and added a bottle of Lucas Oil Break in Oil with high zinc additive.
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Old 01-09-2018, 10:43 AM   #32
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Default Re: Knocking sound (Sliped liner?)

Plenty of armchair analysis of what my tick is but just looking for suggestions on something to flush the oil with - guess I’ll just run a quart of ATF before the next change...
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Old 01-09-2018, 01:43 PM   #33
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Default Re: Knocking sound (Sliped liner?)

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Plenty of armchair analysis of what my tick is but just looking for suggestions on something to flush the oil with - guess I?ll just run a quart of ATF before the next change...
You must have skipped over the Sea Foam treatment I mentioned.

If you run something like rotella or quaker state hdx, they already have detergents in them. A quick google search will likely lead you to others.

If you're trying to clean out a previously neglected engine then (I'll say it again) treat it with Sea Foam and start running the detergent oil. If it was ever run with pennzoil then good luck to you. pennzoil has parafin in it and can leave behind a waxy residue. The only way I know of to remove it is with tear down and scrape it out with a putty knife.

https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/

https://seafoamsales.com/wp-content/...nkcase-Oil.pdf
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Old 01-09-2018, 03:13 PM   #34
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Default Re: Knocking sound (Sliped liner?)

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Originally Posted by Howski View Post
Plenty of armchair analysis of what my tick is but just looking for suggestions on something to flush the oil with - guess I?ll just run a quart of ATF before the next change...
I'll be interseted to see if it has any affect. I have an intermittent tick that sometimes goes away for 1/2 day or so after 50-60 miles of highway driving. I ran Delo 5-40 at my last oil change and it seemed to help quiet the noise. FWIW, when i dropped a liner I struggled to get up to 65, but I also had low compression in two other cylinders.
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Old 01-09-2018, 04:08 PM   #35
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Default Re: Knocking sound (Sliped liner?)

I’ve been running Rotella 15w-40 going on almost 10 years now with my Rovers. I’m sure as hell not putting 30w in it. Have already Seafoamed intake and gas which I noticed a difference. It did not, nor did I expect it to, do much for the tick which is why I am looking for OIL treatments to clean the crankcase out. I’ve got no oil leaks, just looking to remove any buildup with the rockers or lifters that could cause a tick

Appareciate the info Levi, will try to keep this updated with results
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Old 01-09-2018, 06:41 PM   #36
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Default Re: Knocking sound (Sliped liner?)

Okay. How can I explain more clearly? How about adding a little sarcasm?

Hello Howski, are you in there?

Captain Obvious here. How are you today? Just wanted to inform you, Sea Foam is also an oil treatment and if you read the link I sent you, you may notice where it says it cleans lifters and oil systems but (this is where it gets tricky) in order to clean the lifters and oil system you must add it to the crank case oil, not the fuel tank.

If you read the pdf or perhaps the sea Foam container, you will clearly see that it does precisely the thing you are wanting it to do.
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Old 01-15-2018, 05:48 PM   #37
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Default Re: Knocking sound (Sliped liner?)

My most recent ridiculous knocking is from a cam bearing that walked and is being pulverized by a lifter. Motor is coming out due to a slipped liner, but the bearing in the lifter sounds like someone is literally banging the block with a hammer. It's always something.
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