Has anyone rebuilt an LT230 transfer case?

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
On second thought about the gears. I don't plan on changing tire size or diff gears anytime soon. Given that, changing the tcase from 1.22 to 1.41 will bring me near exactly back to optimal levels. So I'm leaning towards swapping for 1.41 gears. In the future, let's say I wanted 35's, by putting in 35's and 4.12 @ the diffs, I'll be very close to where I should be 1.41 @ the case.

On the flipside, if I regeared the diffs to 4.12 and left the transfer case alone, I'd also be at optimum level, but also have the benefit of a better low range. Hmmm
 

Jeff Blake

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May 6, 2016
429
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Pacific Beach, San Diego
If you regear your R&P you should be adding lockers at the same time.

Yes, thats the plan. But I'm going to run out my 235/85r16 ko2's for another year or two and see if I still want to go bigger. If I go bigger, I'll do lockers and R&P along with the tires.

So if I do the 1.41 gears now, I'll be back to stock while I run down these ko2's. Then, if I decide to go lockers, 35", and 4.12 gears down the road, I'll still be right back to where I should be with 1.41 in the case.

That's my thought process.

Gears:
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/lt230-ratio-changes/1-410-gear-set.html

HD cross pin & shim kit
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diy-rebuild-kits/lt230-rebuild-kits/hd-cross-pin.html

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diy-rebuild-kits/lt230-rebuild-kits/lt230-shim-kit.html
 

p m

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Apr 19, 2004
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Yes, thats the plan. But I'm going to run out my 235/85r16 ko2's for another year or two and see if I still want to go bigger. If I go bigger, I'll do lockers and R&P along with the tires.

So if I do the 1.41 gears now, I'll be back to stock while I run down these ko2's. Then, if I decide to go lockers, 35", and 4.12 gears down the road, I'll still be right back to where I should be with 1.41 in the case.

That's my thought process.
Food for thought.
Regardless of the lockers - if you bust a stock ring or pinion gear, a gear set or a complete third member is at most a day away in most CONUS.
If something happens to a non-stock gear set, you'll be waiting for a while.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Food for thought.
Regardless of the lockers - if you bust a stock ring or pinion gear, a gear set or a complete third member is at most a day away in most CONUS.
If something happens to a non-stock gear set, you'll be waiting for a while.

Yeah, good point. I really don't want to mess with the axles right now until I've experienced a reason why I should change them

Having some fun breaking down this case. So far I need a bearing puller, press, and sized sockets. Even if this case hadn't been damaged during shipment, it needed work anyway. I found the detent ball floating in the front housing and no spring or set screw...

I found a new case, from Will Tillery, only 48k miles that will be here soon
 

robertf

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Jan 22, 2006
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The didnt deburr any interior edges of these. Be careful when picking up a torn down case. I cut the crap out of my hand doing so, then took the deburr knife to it
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Thanks for the tip

Boy an electric impact makes quick work of those flange nuts. So satisfying. Torquing them back on will be another matter.... And wow those 3 studs for the rear output housing were TIGHT. With loctite. My 780 foot pound impact stuttered the whole way.

Robert, what not-so-common tools have you needed to do your rebuild? Have you fabbed any?
 

Mongo

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Apr 19, 2004
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your experiencing why you need taller gears in the diffs...you don't need the ATB, or any other crazy mod's and mostly have a issue with your transmission, did it ever drink any water
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
your experiencing why you need taller gears in the diffs...you don't need the ATB, or any other crazy mod's and mostly have a issue with your transmission, did it ever drink any water

Not that I know of. I recently extended the diff breathers... diffs, tcase, and transmission all have 6mm tubing then they are joined into a single 8mm tube that I stuck in my snorkel. I honestly can't remember if the problem was the same before since after the engine rebuild I immediately towed a trailer 1200 miles so expected it to be sluggish anyway.

I did a fluid change on the transmission shortly after buying it. 1000 miles later another fluid change and replaced the filter. Color was good... slightly dark red
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
@ robert, what sealant do you use for gasketing? Or do you use the paper ones? Manual calls for Hylomar 3400 which is very expensive and only available across the pond

I can't decide between

Permatex Gear Oil RTV https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-gear-oil-rtv-gasket-maker/
Permatex Anaerobic https://www.permatex.com/products/g...nge-sealants/permatex-anaerobic-gasket-maker/
Permatex Anaerobic https://www.permatex.com/products/g...e-sealants/permatex-anaerobic-flange-sealant/
What ashcroft sells (RTV) http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diy-rebuild-kits/r380-rebuild-kits/silcone-sealant.html
Or paper gaskets

Leaning towards the Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker as its non-setting. Bit wary of RTV bits getting all up in the gears
 

jims95

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
203
1
Upland, California
I have used the following as an equivalent to Hylomar;

Permatex PermaShield™ Fuel
Resistant Gasket Dressing &
Flange Sealant

P.S. If you compare the Technical Data Sheets for both products, you will see the characteristics and material color are the same.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
I have used the following as an equivalent to Hylomar;

Permatex PermaShield? Fuel
Resistant Gasket Dressing &
Flange Sealant

P.S. If you compare the Technical Data Sheets for both products, you will see the characteristics and material color are the same.

Bit obscure, but does seem to fit the bill. I got the hylosil 100 from ashcroft, and while it's a silicon setting sealant.... heck if its good enough for Ashcroft It's probably good enough for me.

teardown of the bum case is going well. only thing I am hung up on at the moment is pressing a bearing off the differential shaft... the one opposite of the differential housing. Jaw puller won't fit. Going to order a bearing splitter/separator, but I still have doubts of it being able to grab anything as the hi-gear is so close. I read somewhere you can just press the shaft out, but I tried that and its not moving.

edit: spoke too soon. Pressed out easily with a little change in setup
 
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Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Any opinions on the wear in this diff carrier? The copper thrust washers were in good shape (the other case I tore down, the washers were all disintegrated). You can feel the grooves with a fingernail. Unfortunately this part is about $1,000 new.

Some of the sides are more worn than others. I'm fitting new gears, HD cross pin, new washers.

Seriously considering going with the Ashcroft ATB diff as an alternative...
 
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Mongo

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Apr 19, 2004
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Unless you're going to see a shitload sand or ice, the ATB isn't going to buy anything. The wear is typical, but not bad per-say and if the thrust washer aren't toast, run it...
 

robertf

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Jan 22, 2006
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I dont remember any grooves on mine. I did put new thrust washers in it and had to actually use a thinner than stock shim on one side to get the correct torque preload

Mines still not done. As for tools, I have a good collection of gear pullers and seal drivers along with random sizes of round bar so pressing things together is no problem.

I will need to make a tool to tighten the carrier nut. Ive aquired a bunch of spindle retaining nut sockets over the years and one of the 4 prong sockets I think for a dana 60 or 14 bolt or some other full size turd will work if I remove 2 of the 4 teeth.

This one Im rebuilding because the backlash sounds terrible in low range. Its a 5 speed, I hear they all do that but its gotten bad over the years

Id love to put the ashcroft diff in my auto truck. It has its moments, not often, when itll break a 35" tire free on dry pavement
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Unless you're going to see a shitload sand or ice, the ATB isn't going to buy anything. The wear is typical, but not bad per-say and if the thrust washer aren't toast, run it...

Well, it would buy me a new, unworn part that costs less than the original and has an improved design. I'm going to inspect the shaft and the rest of the carrier first to see if I have any problems there.

I dont remember any grooves on mine. I did put new thrust washers in it and had to actually use a thinner than stock shim on one side to get the correct torque preload

Mines still not done. As for tools, I have a good collection of gear pullers and seal drivers along with random sizes of round bar so pressing things together is no problem.

I will need to make a tool to tighten the carrier nut. Ive aquired a bunch of spindle retaining nut sockets over the years and one of the 4 prong sockets I think for a dana 60 or 14 bolt or some other full size turd will work if I remove 2 of the 4 teeth.

This one Im rebuilding because the backlash sounds terrible in low range. Its a 5 speed, I hear they all do that but its gotten bad over the years

Id love to put the ashcroft diff in my auto truck. It has its moments, not often, when itll break a 35" tire free on dry pavement

Thanks. I got the special nut from ashcroft.