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  #26  
Old 03-05-2018, 05:51 PM
Dave03S Dave03S is offline
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https://www.google.com/search?q=dexc...w=1920&bih=949
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  #27  
Old 03-05-2018, 09:35 PM
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jymmiejamz jymmiejamz is offline
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Originally Posted by Dave03S View Post
Actually, only inexperienced people who don't know that Dexcool coagulates and turns to cement inside your radiator when it comes in contact with air use Dexcool.
Can you cite a single case where this has happened in a Land Rover? I've seen hundreds, probably thousands, of Land Rovers very low on coolant and I've never seen Dexcool clog a radiator. In fact, I've seen way more clogged radiators on older trucks that use the standard green coolant.

That being said, if I had a DII, I would be running green coolant.
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  #28  
Old 03-06-2018, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave03S View Post
Actually, only inexperienced people who don't know that Dexcool coagulates and turns to cement inside your radiator when it comes in contact with air use Dexcool.
Weather or not a person uses Dex-cool is their preference. I've never had a problem with it, clients who come in our shop sometimes do. The majority of the time our clients do not maintain their vehicle until it has a issue. The life of any cooling system is maintaining, my D2 with Dex-cool gets a coolant system flush every year. If you replace Dex-cool with ethylene glycol you still have to maintain the system.

Also to the front cover bolts: I noticed there are longer bolts in the front cover while doing the same job. Rave says apply thread sealant to all front cover bolts, but only the longer ones are positioned in water jackets. Either way keep the bolts in order of where they come from. I watched one "mechanic" used loosely , take a shoe box, draw picture of front cover, place holes for bolts where located on cover. He knew where every bolt went when he reinstalled cover
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  #29  
Old 03-06-2018, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jprover2 View Post
Either way keep the bolts in order of where they come from. I watched one "mechanic" used loosely , take a shoe box, draw picture of front cover, place holes for bolts where located on cover. He knew where every bolt went when he reinstalled cover
If you do that, you can trace the gasket and have a good outline of where the bolts are. You can't really screw it up on a DII, but on a D90 or RRC with V-belts it is important.
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  #30  
Old 03-09-2018, 07:47 PM
gthphotography gthphotography is offline
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I was instructed from the beginning that my 04 d2 takes the orange stuff.
What's the company recommendation?
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  #31  
Old 03-09-2018, 08:55 PM
discostew discostew is offline
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Originally Posted by jymmiejamz View Post
It may just be the lower long bolt on the driver's side, but I can't remember. Basically the threads of the bolt go into the water jacket of the block. If there is no sealant on the threads, coolant will leak into the crank case, or possibly even externally. I've used Right Stuff, blue Loctite, and that white thread sealant - all work fine. As a side note, whenever I do a cooling system repair on a DII, I always pull that bolt to drain the cooling system without making a huge mess.
That's a great idea.If we still worked on them I would do that.
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  #32  
Old 03-18-2018, 05:16 PM
gthphotography gthphotography is offline
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So I am getting ready for my new front cover.
I wonder if it's just the gasket?
Either way, are there any important things I need to know when installing the new gasket?
I've done some research and what do people prefer for the oil pump gears - oil, vaseline or assembly goo?
And since I don't have the special tools, any ideas for putting the big gasket in?
I am going to try to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.
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  #33  
Old 03-20-2018, 08:44 AM
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Once you get the old timing cover off there will be some gasket material stuck to the engine block. I used a 3m grey roloc disc to clean mine up, I lightly skimmed the mating faces. Whatever you use to clean it needs to be non-abrasive. The timing cover gasket will sit on the dowels and then you can slide it over the crankshaft and turn it side to side in order to line up the mating faces. You can prime the oil pump with assembly lube, a little vasoline, or engine oil. Just make sure there is something there the pump does not need to run dry. The long front cover bolts that go in the water jackets need thread sealant, the others can take a light touch of thread lock. It's not too bad of a job. You've got this.
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  #34  
Old 03-20-2018, 02:28 PM
gthphotography gthphotography is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jprover2 View Post
Once you get the old timing cover off there will be some gasket material stuck to the engine block. I used a 3m grey roloc disc to clean mine up, I lightly skimmed the mating faces. Whatever you use to clean it needs to be non-abrasive. The timing cover gasket will sit on the dowels and then you can slide it over the crankshaft and turn it side to side in order to line up the mating faces. You can prime the oil pump with assembly lube, a little vasoline, or engine oil. Just make sure there is something there the pump does not need to run dry. The long front cover bolts that go in the water jackets need thread sealant, the others can take a light touch of thread lock. It's not too bad of a job. You've got this.
Thank you for the help! Too cold to put it in today.
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  #35  
Old 03-24-2018, 09:14 PM
gthphotography gthphotography is offline
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All done and installed.
Easy peesy, froze my ass off doing it.
Ah, springtime in shitcago
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