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Old 03-09-2018, 10:35 AM
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Started yesterday on pulling the engine (300tdi). It's almost ready to be pulled. Today the goal is to get the auto transmission and transfer case out. The main pulley and crank have a chunk broken out of them. So the engine comes out and we'll be replacing the crank. Also the plan is to put the R380 manual transmission and LT230 transfer box from a 300tdi disco. The transfer box is about the same gearing ~1.2, but the gears look good and figure to change while we're working on the other stuff. The old transfer box will be kept in case I want to regear to 1.4.

You know you're in love with a vehicle when you go through all this work and you know you're in love with a woman when she jumped into the engine bay and under the truck to work with you.
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Old 03-09-2018, 01:12 PM
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Very nice Disco! U2 have a lot of work to do!
Automatic 300TDI?s came with electronic injection pump, in order to compensate for automatic box lower performance. Is this pump still there?

I see that K & N filter warning sticker in your filter holder box. As a 300TDI user I have not found that filter convenient to use . The fact that turbo pressurizes inlet air to a setup value and is always limited by "Waste Gate" means that advantage it gives to aspirated V8 engines is here not present. In the other hand, dirt that it lets in is much greater than what cellulose filter lets in. I have removed it.

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Old 03-09-2018, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by German Gruner View Post
In the other hand, dirt that it lets in is much greater than what cellulose filter lets in. I have removed it.
I have noticed it as well - and since I drive my trucks in the areas that have fine dust, I never use K&N filters anymore.
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Old 03-09-2018, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by German Gruner View Post
Very nice Disco! U2 have a lot of work to do!
Automatic 300TDI?s came with electronic injection pump, in order to compensate for automatic box lower performance. Is this pump still there?

I see that K & N filter warning sticker in your filter holder box. As a 300TDI user I have not found that filter convenient to use . The fact that turbo pressurizes inlet air to a setup value and is always limited by "Waste Gate" means that advantage it gives to aspirated V8 engines is here not present. In the other hand, dirt that it lets in is much greater than what cellulose filter lets in. I have removed it.

Regards
It was obviously converted from v8. No electronic injection pump. Also, I don't see any K&N filter sticker.
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Old 03-09-2018, 04:11 PM
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Then I was wrong for sure. This sticker on wedge that "undefined market" Discos like mine don't have, is similar to K&N warning label. I didn't read it, haha!
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Old 03-09-2018, 07:18 PM
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https://www.google.com.ar/search?q=s...ivCToqv_3P4uM:

This is K&N warning decal. I thought it was there...

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Old 03-09-2018, 09:08 PM
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Updating from today. All the stuff is out. In the one photo you can see the chunk out of the crank that will need to be replaced.
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:34 PM
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If that’s the only damage, it can be repaired easily by a completent machine shop.

Great pics though! I can’t see my Maude jumping into an engine room!
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Old 03-14-2018, 10:53 PM
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What's the story on that motor?
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Old 03-15-2018, 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by turbodave View Post
If that?s the only damage, it can be repaired easily by a completent machine shop.

Great pics though! I can?t see my Maude jumping into an engine room!
True and that was a consideration, but I was planning to put the manual transmission and a different transfer case in anyway. And to be honest, I wanted to dig into the engine. There was some stuff called belzona 1111 that could have been used to repair it but it was about half the cost of a reconditioned crank for the stuff. So there's that.
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Old 03-15-2018, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
What's the story on that motor?
That's a general question, so I'll assume you are asking if I know the history of this specific motor. This truck started as a V8 and a diesel conversation to this 300tdi was done by the owner previous to the one I bought it from. The guy I bought it from replaced the head with a performance head from Turner engineering. The engine with the V8 auto was a bit of a mess and always wanting to downshift, while sucking the power out of what is already not a very powerful motor.

I have some more updates on the work and it's been a bit slower going that I would have hoped but plan to be done in the next few days.
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Old 03-15-2018, 03:13 AM
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Cleaned the heck out of it and painted the block. Put a replacement crank in only to find it had a similar issue and the key was wearing on the crank. So out it came and pulled another crank out of another 300tdi that was in stock for parts. Got her in and should have the engine, transmission and transfer case all ready by end of tomorrow to put into the truck.
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  #13  
Old 03-20-2018, 01:01 PM
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The pedal assembly that we had was from a UK truck so it's backwards and the pedals are not bent to the right like they are on the NAS. I am assuming the NAS pedals are bent to account for the fact that the clutch is up against the side kick plate on the LHD vs having more space on the RHD. In any event, the NAS pedal box is NLA and I'm praying that there is somebody in Salt Lake City area that could grab one off a pick-n-pull truck there or that there will be one available somehow online. I also need a replacement center console or a way to convert from the center console with the auto shifter cutout to the one that has a space for a manual shifter. Also I ordered an upper lever for the shifter and the boot and knob which I was also missing. The project is on pause right now until I can figure out some parts and have more time to devote to it. Hoping to be back at in in a couple weeks.
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Old 03-26-2018, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by glester View Post
The pedal assembly that we had was from a UK truck so it's backwards and the pedals are not bent to the right like they are on the NAS. I am assuming the NAS pedals are bent to account for the fact that the clutch is up against the side kick plate on the LHD vs having more space on the RHD. In any event, the NAS pedal box is NLA and I'm praying that there is somebody in Salt Lake City area that could grab one off a pick-n-pull truck there or that there will be one available somehow online. I also need a replacement center console or a way to convert from the center console with the auto shifter cutout to the one that has a space for a manual shifter. Also I ordered an upper lever for the shifter and the boot and knob which I was also missing. The project is on pause right now until I can figure out some parts and have more time to devote to it. Hoping to be back at in in a couple weeks.
Big shout out to Great Basin Rovers out in SLC. I was desperate to find somebody to head to the pick n pull location and grab some items (including the pedal assembly). It turns out that he had a pedal assembly at his shop. Not only that, but he hooked me up with somebody at his shop that was willing to go to pick n pull to grab other assorted parts that I wanted that were manual transmission specific (center console, levers, etc). Of course I'm compensating them for all this, but I am super happy that they were able to help me out.

So...the project starts up again (hopefully) this weekend.

Included photos of the cleaned, painted and ready to install 300tdi and transmission/transfer box.
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  #15  
Old 03-26-2018, 05:08 PM
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Very nice!
If you keep automatic gearbox oil cooler, could you connect it instead oil bypass on R380. In similar shape as manual TD5 Discos

You should not forget screen ESR2422 attached to inlet manifold

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Old 04-02-2018, 06:59 PM
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Is your crank pulley cracked? I just took apart my 300 Tdi and found the pulley cracked right at the keyway. No damage to the keyway, but I am wondering if this could be the root cause of your issue. There were two others at the shop with cracked pulleys.

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Old 04-03-2018, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jymmiejamz View Post
Is your crank pulley cracked? I just took apart my 300 Tdi and found the pulley cracked right at the keyway. No damage to the keyway, but I am wondering if this could be the root cause of your issue. There were two others at the shop with cracked pulleys.

No crack in the crank pulley that I saw. Fortunately for you, a replacement pulley is much better than a bad crank.
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Old 04-03-2018, 12:56 AM
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First 2 items off the list have been done. Hoping that another couple full days and we'll have it all done. I'm sure there is more detail to do than on the list, but this is the big stuff.
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Old 04-03-2018, 11:41 AM
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Shiny gear lever it looks very good!
Typical pulley replacement in 300TDI?s is recommended when rubber part is worn. If not replaced, crankshaft can break in the first bend, behind oil gear. But after a lot of kilometers traveled...

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Old 04-03-2018, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by German Gruner View Post
Shiny gear lever it looks very good!
Typical pulley replacement in 300TDI?s is recommended when rubber part is worn. If not replaced, crankshaft can break in the first bend, behind oil gear. But after a lot of kilometers traveled...

Regards
The rubber on mine is fine, it is just cracked. I'm going to replace it anyway.
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Old 04-03-2018, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by German Gruner View Post
Very nice!
If you keep automatic gearbox oil cooler, could you connect it instead oil bypass on R380. In similar shape as manual TD5 Discos

You should not forget screen ESR2422 attached to inlet manifold

Regards
Would need something to pump the gearbox oil through the cooler though right? Is there an issue with the R380 oil temp that I'm not aware of that would benefit from using the oil cooler?
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Old 04-03-2018, 08:57 PM
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The R380 has a built in pump, you will need the oil pump to cooler part that replaces the bypass on the trans, as set of cooler lines and the frame mounted cooler for the atuomatic. The R380 can run hot. The cooler lines and the part for the trans all seems to be made of unicorn scrotum. I have not been able to source new lines for mine, so it’s going to be AN fittings and braided line on mine. The other mistery is how do you know when the lines and cooler are full? I run mine park it nose down on a slight incline and check the trans, fill to the fill hole.
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Old 04-04-2018, 11:09 AM
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Coupler FTC2687 is the Unicorn scrotum part, haha! To replace bypass...

And "specific" coupling hoses/tubes are TRP1000 and UBP500260

You need 3,1 liter of MTF94 when dry, and 2,6 liters for refill.
You should fill it, and after a few minutes of engine running you get more space to top it.

... or you can forget it all, and continue your work

Regards
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Old 04-04-2018, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by German Gruner View Post
Coupler FTC2687 is the Unicorn scrotum part, haha! To replace bypass...

And "specific" coupling hoses/tubes are TRP1000 and UBP500260

You need 3,1 liter of MTF94 when dry, and 2,6 liters for refill.
You should fill it, and after a few minutes of engine running you get more space to top it.

... or you can forget it all, and continue your work

Regards
Yeah, that unicorn piece is like $800-$900...yikes. I think I'll continue without running it through the oil cooler...take the cooler and lines out and be done with it. A replacement R380 is not much more than that part. LOL
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Old 04-16-2018, 12:13 PM
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Just finished the work and she's all put back together. Here's all that was done. I'm probably missing a few things on this list as there was a lot:

- Pulled engine, auto transmission and transfer box
- Cleaned everything (engine, transmission, under truck and in engine bay)
- Replaced crank
- Installed R380 manual transmission
- Replaced transfer box with the one that came with the transmission (almost identical in gearing to the one I had in the truck)
- Had flywheel resurfaced
- New clutch kit
- New crank pulley and damper
- New fan pulley
- New timing belt
- New water pump
- Timed engine
- Timed valves
- All new gaskets along the way
- New clutch release guide
- Replaced pedal box (LHD pedal box for 5-speed D1 - luckily found one)
- Replaced brake servo and vacuum line to vacuum pump
- Replaced clutch master cylinder
- New clutch slave and custom made soft line
- Replaced center console with one that had cutout for 5-speed lever
- Installed Syncroworks slickshift
- New fuel filter and oil filter
- Removed transmission cooler and lines
- Greased propshafts
- New fluids of course (oil, coolant, MTL, 90w)


There were a few things to learn along the way:

- Couldn't get the engine the starter going and found that we needed to pull the park/neutral position switch from the auto transmission and modify the switch plug to always close the circuit; allowing the car to start. Thought for a moment it would be cool to run it to a switch in the cabin to use as a safety feature that would only allow the car to start if the switch was on.

- Need to find some sort of foam or other dampening for the 5-speed shifter hole in the center console. I have the boot for the lever but not the gaiter that goes under it or any other foam. So it's considerably noisier at the moment.

- Seem to have not taken enough care in replacing the rear main seal or I should have replaced the t-seals...as there is a leak through the wading plug hole at the base of the bell housing. (https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?p=1076661) I'll have to go back in to figure that out.

- Had to pull off and retighten the plate on the back of the transfer case as it was leaking after install (seems to be good now)

- Speedometer wasn't working initially and just hadn't plugged into the speed sensor in the transfer box

- Fuel lines were a bit loose (to and from the pump) and upon first startup engine would turn over but wouldn't start. Tightened those fuel lines and then loosened the fuel line into the engine at cylinder 1 until fuel was clearly coming out and then re-tightened.

- Getting the pin in and clip on for clutch master cylinder to clutch pedal is a pain unless you loosen the master cylinder from the pedal box. I learned this the hard way.
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