Durable Trans, Oil, and PS Lines

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
15,617
837
58
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
Get a set of used hoses.
Take a hacksaw to steel lines right where the rubber is crimped on them.
Braze on AN-6 fittings (for engine oil or transmission fluid) or AN-4 fittings (for p/s).
Use Earl's or others teflon, stainless-steel-jacketed lines of appropriate lengths.
Forget about ever seeing oil seeping through these lines.

I totally forgot this discussion from years ago. All this esoteric stuff about steel conducting or not conducting heat, etc. My engine and transmission lines have been on for the last 10 years, and have not been touched.
 

Maximumwarp

Well-known member
Mar 22, 2015
836
26
Fairburn GA
Is this problem unique to the D1/RRC? Or is it a worthwhile endeavor to swap the lines on a D2 as well? Almost every time I hear this issue brought up, it's in reference to a D1.
 

RVR OVR

Well-known member
Dec 9, 2004
342
105
IL
Is this problem unique to the D1/RRC? Or is it a worthwhile endeavor to swap the lines on a D2 as well? Almost every time I hear this issue brought up, it's in reference to a D1.

When I was searching this forum for "transmission cooler line" I found threads on D2's as well...seems to be a prevalent problem.

My last Rover I owned from 97-2003 had no such issues. My hunch is this is simply a problem that comes with age.

Tom
 

MM3846

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2014
1,221
161
LI, NY

RVR OVR

Well-known member
Dec 9, 2004
342
105
IL
Hmmm....the oil cooler lines you listed have "related items" right next to them, for a lot more money. Are these Rovers North items just OEM replacement alternatives? The pictures look very different, do I need the other ones as well?

This one....
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PLD341&type=0
Has this "related item"
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PBP101150&type=0

and this one
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PLD342
Has this "related item"
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PBP101160&type=0


 

MM3846

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2014
1,221
161
LI, NY
Hmmm....the oil cooler lines you listed have "related items" right next to them, for a lot more money. Are these Rovers North items just OEM replacement alternatives? The pictures look very different, do I need the other ones as well?

This one....
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PLD341&type=0
Has this "related item"
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PBP101150&type=0

and this one
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PLD342
Has this "related item"
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PBP101160&type=0

The related items are the Land Rover OEM lines... thats why they're a lot more money.
 

DiscoPhoto

Well-known member
Jul 23, 2012
2,581
76
Vermont
I have addressed the engine oil lines and am about to do the same for the transmission lines.

Using the original lines the old hose and crimp area were cut away. The ends of the steel lines were cleaned and a brass hose barbed sweated to the end. The barb was a generic brass fitting with the ID bored to fit closely to the steel line. Attaching it was a simple sweated solder joint. Yes, solder. The overlap of the sweated joint is more than a match for the amount of oil pressure.

This was done on all four. Now the engine oil lines run Gates fluid hose (the red kind). If you want a bit more protection get some braided hose protector (Flexo, Parker, several others) to cover the hoses.

Several years and 50k miles later they are still fine. If the need to repair came up all I need is a couple of hose clamps and some 1/2" hose to limp along. I carry two feet of the Gates hose in the jockey box under my seat (along with a few headlight bulbs, spare fuses, etc).

So now I am about to do the same to the transmission lines. My only question is if the cooler lines are a fully pressurized loop.
 
Last edited:

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
15,617
837
58
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
I had custom hoses made for my white D1 about 130k miles ago, in a manner very similar to what you described. Brazed AN ends, not soldered barb fittings, however. Same hoses are in the white LWB, also about 80 kmi on them.
Not leaking a drop.
 

WaltNYC

Well-known member
Mar 3, 2010
707
135
NYC
I had custom hoses made for my white D1 about 130k miles ago, in a manner very similar to what you described. Brazed AN ends, not soldered barb fittings, however. Same hoses are in the white LWB, also about 80 kmi on them.
Not leaking a drop.

PM, can you please describe this in a little more detail. I'm having trouble envisioning it.

My tranny cooler lines are 'damp' but it might be a leaky steering box so I'm gather intelligence on how to best solve the problem.

On a related note, what is on the end of the hard portions of the lines? (under the hose and crimp collar)