'96 D1 - Front O2 Sensor replacement

bsa_m21 · Apr 17, 2017

Hi all. Quick question - do you have to remove the coil pack to get at the connections when replacing the front O2 sensors?

Thx.
M.

fishEH · Apr 17, 2017

bsa_m21 said:
Hi all. Quick question - do you have to remove the coil pack to get at the connections when replacing the front O2 sensors?

Thx.
M.

You don't have to, but it's easier to do that.

bsa_m21 · Apr 17, 2017

Thanks. One more stupid question - Torque Pro says the O2 error is in Bank 2. So, is Bank 2 the left or right side of the engine, when looking at the engine from the front of the truck?
M.
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squirt · Apr 17, 2017

For North American vehicles, Bank 1 is Driver side. Bank 2 is Passenger side.

Tugela · Apr 18, 2017

I have replaced front O2 sensors twice without removing the coils. Make sure you can unscrew the sensor from the y-pipe before you decouple the connector.

AbnMike · Apr 18, 2017

Tugela said:
I have replaced front O2 sensors twice without removing the coils. Make sure you can unscrew the sensor from the y-pipe before you decouple the connector.

I tried to do mine this way but since I had never done it before and didn't have any muscle memory on how they felt, etc, I couldn't do it. Seemed a lot easier to simply remove the coil packs - then I simply lay across the motor on a piece of cardboard and blanket and switched them out very easily.

What I should have done then is re-wire them and mount them where they were easily reachable on the firewall, but I didn't.

Plus 1 on removing them from the exhaust, first. Also if you make the electrical connection first, pre-twist the wires in the opposite direction so when you screw in the sensors you don't twist them then.

mearstrae · Apr 18, 2017

Can you get them off without moving the coil pack? Yes, as said, scraped knuckles are sometimes in the offing. Since the sensors are usually stuck in place, use some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil and let soak in, heat may also be needed. If I'm tossing the old sensor I cut off the wires and use a deep well six point socket to remove, so I don't round off the flats. A large flare nut wrench also works pretty well. I've never had any luck with a regulation sensor socket.

mburnett · Apr 18, 2017

I used the O2 socket but ground it flat on a bench grinder. It is flared for some unknown reason and likes to slip. I could get it to bite then. I've taken the coil pack out enough times that it takes me 2-3 minutes. It makes getting to the connectors so much easier IMHO. Mark your wires once. The coil bracket has the cylinder numbers engraved on it.

bsa_m21 · Apr 18, 2017

Great info. Thanks everyone.
Weather permitting, will do the O2 replacement tomorrow. Will send pics of my scraped, greasy knuckles.

M.

bsa_m21 · Apr 21, 2017

Well today I finally replaced the front passenger side O2 sensor (already done the other 3).

What bloody idiot designed it's location??? It is impossible to get a wrench with suitable leverage, onto it. The 17mm wrench was too long. My little vise grip just popped off and the bigger ones wouldn't fit. Grrrrrr.

After a fruitless hour of greasy scraped knuckles, I decided to try one more thing before pulling off the front pipe assembly - my Acetylene/Oxy torch. I heated the boss around the sensor red hot, then quickly crawled under, clipped on the vise grips and gave it a whack with my hammer. Yay! The threads broke free.

So then it was time to remove the coil pack. 20min more and she was back together. Hooked up the OBD sensor and Torque Pro and cleared the codes. Took her out for drive and monitored the sensors. FINALLY they all seem to be working.

However, Torque Pro is still showing me a test error:

TID:$05 CID:$01 - Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)
Min: 65,086
Test result value: 32,767
FAIL

Anyone have an idea what this could be relating to?

Regards,
M.

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'96 D1 - Front O2 Sensor replacement

bsa_m21

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fishEH

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bsa_m21

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squirt

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Tugela

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AbnMike

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mearstrae

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mburnett

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bsa_m21

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bsa_m21

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